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How much lift

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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 05:31 AM
  #1  
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How much lift

How much lift does it take to fit 33" or 35" tires on a 1996 f-150 4x4 and what kind of things do I need to look out for when installing a 4" or 6" as far as steering or alignment problems.The 6" isn't much more but does it cause more problems than a 4"? I want to be able to drive it everyday and have it still ride decent and handle good.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 09:07 AM
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Welcome to FTE. Do some searches on lifting your truck here, and also check the suspension and off-road forums. There's lot's of talk about what's required.

Now, depending on your stock setup, you may or may not have to do anything. My 84 could take 33's from the factory. My 89 has 31's on it, and I wouldn't go any bigger without some lift. Common practice seems to dictate 4 inches for 33's and 6 inches for 35's. Again, there're lot's of people on here with lots of opinions. It all boils down to what YOU decide that you want/need for the performance or look that you're after.

Do make sure you check out all of your options. Not all lifts are made the same, and by reading the threads here and other places (I also look at the ranger station, as the suspension design is the same).

Keep us posted on your progress.

Happy Wednesday.

Paul

89 F-150 SC 4x4, 300, T-18
KANSAS Chp.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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I have a '93 F-150... I tilted my front bumper slightly and trimmed the plastic air-damn up front and fit 33's... now to go with 35's I would have to put on at least a 2" lift

... you should be able to fit the 33's just fine with stock ride height if you modify it just a little like I did... but without those mods a 2" or 2.5" (whatever is sold for that year) should be fine to get you the clearance for the 33's without modification. As for 35" tires I would think that a 4" lift should be enough... If you have a tight suspension you should be fine with clearance as long as you aren't rubbing the bumper around turns...

With my stock ride height I was able to clear the bumper except around turns... this was due to the fact that I had 12.5" wide tires that would just barely catch.

My truck also has the double shocks on either side up front so the front end of my truck doesn't give at all suspension-wise.

If I were you I would go with the smallest lift kit possible to keep your ride smooth and stable unless you really want to spend a lot of money... a lift kit on a twin I-beam suspension can become very pricey.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 09:39 PM
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i have a 92 with a 4 in lift snd 33 in tires. the noraml rule of thumb is 4in lift 33in tires 6in lift 35 in tires with no modifications. i got my lift for around $1200 and that included shipping, nitrogen gas shocks, new pitman arm, longer radius arms, add-a-leafs for the rear. everything eles needed. if you a 302 and 3.55 gears i dont know if want to go any bigger then 33 in tires. I love everything about the ride. the only thing is the gears are to tall.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 03:55 AM
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Yea I kind of thought about the 35's being a little much for the 302 and 3:55 gears so I think I will stick with the 33's. What kind of gas milage can I expect from it now with 265/75/16's and what will it be with the 33's (ball park of course) Thanks for all the replys.
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 07:26 AM
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That's kind of a loaded question.

According to the Tire and Rim association handbook, and assuming that your 265's are mounted on 16x7.5 rims (a 7.0 rim won't make too much difference), your current tires should be about 31.89 inches (632 revs/mile). Now, if you're planning to go to a flotation size, say, 33x12.50, then your new radius will be about 32.76 (615 revs/mile). So, the diameter change would be less than an inch. This figures out to be a difference of 17 revolutions per mile between the two tires. I'd say, from that angle that mileage changes would be negligable. Now, if you're going to use 285/75'sR16's, then you drop to 609 revs/mile. Also keep in consideration that your inflation values will also play a roll in this, as rolling radius is slightly different than design radius. Also, your grown tire radius (the radius it is at seed), is a different number too (though not too much different)

However, the larger tire does represent a different torque arm for you engine to turn, so there will be a bit of consideration there.
 

Last edited by F-Liner; Sep 8, 2005 at 07:32 AM.
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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i went from 31x10.5r15 to 33x12.5r15 i get about 13mpg highway at 65 and 15mpg interstate going 75. and about 11mpg city. before i was getting about 16mpg highway and 13 interstate
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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Well, I've got 35's and only a 3" body lift. However, it's coming off and a 6" lift SAS is going in. Right now, I've got a 302 with a 5-speed and 3.55's, and get about 10.5 mpg.

Sean
 
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:24 PM
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I 'v Got A 6" Lift And 35's, Its An Everyday Driver And It Still Rides Good And Pulls Good But I'v Got A 351 35's Would Be A Little Much For A 302
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by lvmyf-150
I 'v Got A 6" Lift And 35's, Its An Everyday Driver And It Still Rides Good And Pulls Good But I'v Got A 351 35's Would Be A Little Much For A 302
This brings in a good point. With stock gears in the area of 3.55's, 35's probably would be a little steep for your motor. Use this link to get to the calculator page at Randy's R&P. http://www.ringpinion.com/content/calculators/RPM.asp. Using that, you can play with ratio's until you come up with the rpm range that you want, to maintain your current effective ratio. Once you adjust your gears properly for your engine's powerband, then everything should be hunky dory.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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I have a 93 and i got a 2" its got enough clearence to jump curbs and such.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:09 AM
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Thanks guys for all your replys. I think I will just go with a 4" and 33's.
 
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