I know that Crower recommends using straight 30 weight for breaking in their cams as well as an "oil conditioner". They specifically say not to use synthetic or multi vis for cam break in.

 

you don't want to use synthetic for sure, it provides too much lubrication and the cam doesn't wear the proper pattern into the lobe forcing the lifters to rotate, which will end up wearing a spot on the lifters after awhile.
Something else that I have found lately is that some lifters are fitting to tight in the bores and not rotating freely like they should. this REALLY needs to be checked when installing the cam, and if needing corrected should be done right then by honing lightly the lifter bores (yes this will most likely require tearing the engine clear down again unless you think about it first, and check it before installing the crank rods, and pistons) having the pistons in the bore too tightly will also take the cam and or the lifters out.

 

My 79 351m was rebuilt by my buddy in which he put in a new Crane blueracer cam in. When trying to break it in, the engine had a unknown massive vacuum leak from a ill fitting intake manifold, due to him milling/decking the heads and block. As the result of the engine not being able to get up above 900 rpm, we think that ruined the Crane cam and # 4 intake lifter . That was back in May of this year....


I bought a new Comp 268 and sent it to him in June. He had the intake custom milled to fit and has no more vac leaks. He called last night saying he had the engine running again. He broke the Comp 268 cam in at 2k to 2500 rpm, with 60 lb. oil pressure reading on the test gauge that he had screwed in to the oil sending unit port. Engine was reported to be running slick and smooth . Then number 4 cylinder intake lifter started being noisy and never quieted down. He checked it it out and # 4 intake lifter is now frozen. Just for fyi, he broke it in with Valv.30 straight weight ASE oil. ...

That is two new cams /lifter sets now , both wiped out. Sending a wrecker today 80 miles to bring the truck back to my garage . Still mulling it over, but have massive project burnout from this right now. Going on six years of restoration and it has drained me financially. I do not want to deal with it anymore and I want my garage back. Will be putting the rest of the parts to finish this truck it in the bed of it, and it will going away from here dirt cheap, to someone soon.

 

I am getting ready to install the third cam. I will use Rotella this time. The second cam ran very well for the first 15 minutes then you could here the engine begin to run rough. I really hope this works, like some I am getting burnt and running out of $$$. I will post my third results.

 

Is this a good time to suggest swithing to a Hydraulic Roller cam?

I know that it is more money, but there is no break-in required, and there are fewer problems.

 

Please let us know your results...I'm in the middle of a 400 rebuild, and I have the venerable 255DEH to install. This thread has gotten me scared about Comp Cams. Dumb question, but you soaked the lifters overnight and used the cam lube on the lifters as well as the cam lobes, right?

 

if the same lobe wiped out twice already i'd investigate, find something wrong and correct it before doing the third cam in! the lifter bore prolly has a problem? maybe a tight valve guide that is seizing after it gets hot?

 

Good advice, thanks.

A long background here to see where I am at with this engine.

My engine builder buddy has been my best freind now for over 40 years. He has been a machinist for 30 years and has built a lot of high performance engines for his own big block mopars and for extra money, tricks out corvette engines to get higher performance from them. I have seen his work, it excels. But, there is something about this old 351m ford truck engine that has him frustrated...

I called him last weekend to tell him I wanted to pick the truck up and bring it back to my garage. I told him that after six years of working on it, I had had it and just wanted to get rid of it. That would solve it draining me financially and he would not have to spend any more of his free time working on it any longer. I told him at our age ( were both 54) we dont need to spend our free time wrenching on a old truck . He has been working on the engine 3 years now ,whenever he got around to it. He has accepted very little cash from me for his labor, not because I havent offered tho...

Over the past year I tried to tell him what that I learned on here about what could be ailing the cams/lifters ( he doesnt have the internet, his loss). He basically just takes offence from the fter's advice, and very nicely reminds me he has been building high performance engines for 30 years, and has put in thousands of cams and lifters and knows the correct procedures . ...

So after I told him I wanted to get the truck back and get rid of it, all I accomplished was stepping on his ego and hurting his feelings. So he refused to give it to me and said he would find out why the lifter is failing , buy the next cam /lifter set out of his own pocket and put it in. He then said if it failed too, I could then have the truck back, so I agreed to those terms. I guess his pride will not allow him to send out a engine that has whipped him....

Let this long saga of mine be a lesson to anyone letting their best friends work on their projects. It can end up being a lose /lose situation for both parties. Regardless of who or what is right or wrong, this engine work has damaged our friendship and the bottom line is , with the money aside, the damn thing was not worth that.

 

Yeah, you have to watch out trying to give advice to some guys, especially when they've been doing something long enough. I've got a friend that's exactly like that with some things (I guess we all are), and I've learned to just sometimes play dumb and let him go through the process he has to go through. Learning to bite your tongue is a small price to pay for a good friendship.

Good luck with your buddy and your motor, hope you get to keep one of them...

 

thanks for the support and good advice. But, after three years my tongue was getting awfully sore .

I just need closure. He either needs to get me a running truck by listening to those on here that know what to do and heed their advice, or let me have it so I can do with it what I want. Friends are good to have, but I do not sleep with them, nor do they pay my bills, nor do they have to watch as my bank account dwindles. If he choses to turn his back against me over this, so be it. I have been diplomatic as long as I can stand it about this engine work he is doing. It is time for him to ---- or get off the pot. Thanks for replying and letting me pop off some more steam, it helps keep my BP down.

 

I can understand that, believe me. My best friend is also my mechanic. We've had our differences over the years, but have always got through them, sometimes with a little time to think things through. ( on both sides )...I know there have been some times I have paid unnecessarily for things, but I think he's more than made up for it with things like free labor that I never asked for, etc.... I guess what I'm trying to get across is, if he is truly your best friend, you will get through it. I truly understand your aggrivation, but to help keep things in perspective, take some time to remember how much that friendship has meant to you over the course of many years. I hope this helps to know someone else has been through similar circumstances.

 

I drive a 79 Lincoln Town Car, with the 400M. Rebuilt it with the Comp Cam 265DEH 9 months ago. I also put in the Crane 'I think' Rocker Rollers (a little frustrating cuz you need the rocker install adapter kit that I had a hard time finding for some reason). Milled the heads down .018 and put some flat top pistons in it. I'm guessing that up'd the compression ratio to 9.5. I'm not sure.

Anyway, I put about 2500 miles on it, no problems. I hear a little rocker rap, but it isn't loud, and the engine has plenty of power. I used the regular 10-30 weight oil, nothing fancy, and changed it after 500 miles.

You NEED the hardened pushrods (I used the stock length) and springs if you are using the rocker rollers, soak the lifters overnight in oil, and use the break-in lube anywhere you can think of, and use plenty of it. Read those intructions that came with the rocker rollers at least 3 times, and check everything 10 times.

This was the first time rebuilding an engine, and it runs good. Just don't rush it.

 

second comp cam wiped out of my cleveland, sitting in garage till $$ to tear back down and will go roller for sure. I feel for all with the clatter and know this was broke in per spec's No more flat tappets for me, also if changing cam later rollers are easier to change, cam only an no breakin

 

You need to add STP Oil Treatment, or GM EOS, or like Rapid Russ said, Rotella. These contain ZDDP, a high pressure lubricant that bonds to metal.

Really.

 

Well, just talked to my buddy and he has the second damaged cam removed now. He is still trying to find out why #4 intake lifter keeps failing , before investing in another cam/lifter set thank goodness. ...

He says now he would like to go with a roller cam with roller lifters/new springs, but he feels it is not necessary to go with new roller rocker arms. That is o.k. by me, but is that advisable ?

..What brand name roller cams/roller lifters would you guys recommend ? Its a 79 4x4 np 435 / np203 with the 3:50 9in. rear end , rebuilt 351m now made in to a 406 c.i. I am using the stock Motorcraft 2150-2v carb and intake, pollution equip removed , but saved. Just a street truck , not fast , but want it to have a nice lope at idle, good low range torque and stump pullin' power. thanks