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i have a 1996 f 350 dually with the 7.3. bullydog four position flip chip full set of gauges 3 inch round downtube. took a trip this weekend to northern michigan and on the way up my tach would jump a couple of hundred rpms without me pressing the accelerator pedal or the cruise making it go faster.at one point the cruise stopped working. while up north the next day the abs light came on although the truck still seemed to operate fine. today on the way home the cruise would shut itself off but come right back to working when i reset it. is this the sign of an alternator, battery or something bigger? checked all the fuses in the truck and they were all fine.
Jumpy tach like that? I've been wrong so many times lately here on this site I'm feeling a little foolish, but I'll go out on a limb here and say it's either your CPS or your torque converter is slipping for some reason.
Jumpy tach like that? I've been wrong so many times lately here on this site I'm feeling a little foolish, but I'll go out on a limb here and say it's either your CPS or your torque converter is slipping for some reason.
I think I'd buy a CPS, and put it in my glovebox.......along with the appropriate 10mm tools.
Last edited by touchofgrey; Sep 5, 2005 at 11:23 PM.
I don't see how the CPS could do the things spark' describes ...and it certainly wouldn't affect the cruise . I know a faulty speed sensor will affect the cruise but not the tach...Seeing as these trucks are "drive by wire" it may be in the throtle position sensor .
If the CPS doesn't cure it, you might want to look at the rear axle speed sensor and its connection. Those same symptoms happened on my buddy's '97. It was just a loose connection on the rear speed sensor. Either way I would still pick up a CPS, because sooner or later you'll need it.
If it doesn't do that with the cruise control off, but does with it on, there is definitely something wrong with your cruse control.
I recently had my CPS go bad cruising at 75mph in the freeway left lane. First thing I noticed it would miss. Then seconds later it would hesitate with the engine cutting off then on. Then all of a sudden within a few seconds later, the engine just quit, and had to coast to a safe area off the freeway. Luckily when it started missing, I immediately pulled to the right lane, so when it did conk out I was able to coast it down a off ramp. A tow truck driver put a tow hook and pulled me into a shopping mall where I did the CPS exchange. I did have my Predator tuner with me to see the trouble code. It's scary to loose your power brakes and have to stop a 8000lb machine.
on sunday mornig when i first started the truck the abs light came on and stayed on when i was not in cruise control mode. once i shut the truck off it the light went off and it has not been back on since?
i have had a cps sensor go out before and it is not giving me any of the signs that it is the cps.
the tach only jumps no increase in engine rpm.
on sunday mornig when i first started the truck the abs light came on and stayed on when i was not in cruise control mode. once i shut the truck off it the light went off and it has not been back on since?
i have had a cps sensor go out before and it is not giving me any of the signs that it is the cps.
the tach only jumps no increase in engine rpm.
Ok so that rules out the torque converter. I would replace the CPS, it might be sending an erratic signal.
I know a bad alternator resulting in low voltage would cause everything on your dash to go eratic once the battery is finally run down. But I doubt it is that. It will be hard to track down unless it's an obvious failure on some electrical part. Try scanning for codes. If none, then I wouldn't worry it until something actually fails and can be pinpointed.
I think I would start with the VSS in the rear diff, there are a lot of calculations based on what that speed sensor is saying, and at around $12 it is by far the least expensive of the sensors that could cause the problem.
If you haven't already checked, I would start looking at the connections to the PCM & the back of the dash, make sure that they are tight and not corroding. Sounds to me like the problem is within the dash/instument cluster. If the engine is running smooth the entire time these events occur, I'd say your sensors are probably fine. Most of the time the ABS light trips on from the VSS malfunction, but is usually accompanied by an eratic speedometer as well. From what I gather, the cps is usually accompanied by the engine stalling or dying. Knowing the problem with the CPS, I changed mine out before having problems and keep in in the truck as a spare now.
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