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The C4 is stronger than the C5...I don't think you want to go there...!
How about a T5 swap, or are you pretty much set on staying with an automatic?
Really though, the C4 should be plenty strong. There must be some other problem that's causing your high failure rate with them. What kind of power are you putting through them?
Motor/frame mounts from 80`s E-van,Exhaust manifolds from 60`s mustang 289 or 70`s comet 302 or shorty headers from 80`s mustang 5.0.If you want 4x4 the easiest way is to drop your Ranger body on an EARLY Bronco,supposed to be near perfect fit.
A 302 with a about 195-215HP at the flywheel.The ranger is already 4x4 just need to figur a way to get a C-6 in there.I loose reverse in all the C-4's??
the c-6 will blot right up to any X-fer case a C-4 does.....Ford's always had the same 6-bolt circle for that....unlike chebby!....I would go w/ the 205 if U haven't already, U may need to grind a small section so the shift rail doesn't hit the tranny....I had to when I put an 88 F-150 5-sp. in my Ranger w/ a 302 and a 205 X-fer. The only problem w/ a c-6 is U may not have enough of a tranny tunnel, and U may need to "modify" it for the bigger c-6.....but I'm not sure, I really dislike autos
so is a SHO 3.0 a bolt up to the ranger 5 speed?
does it have to be a 3.0 or 4.0 5speed or will the 4 banger one be the same?
keep the original SHO clutch/flywheel or something different?
want to put a SHO 3.0 with a 5 sp in a kit car............trans from a Ranger should be easy to find if I know which one
A 302 with a about 195-215HP at the flywheel.The ranger is already 4x4 just need to figur a way to get a C-6 in there.I loose reverse in all the C-4's??
Are you breaking the band or just burning up the servo?
The stamped steel cover is the reverse servo.You can remove the 4 bolts and pull it out and replace easily.Also check adj of band on opposite side of trans for low-reverse.Thread in all the way and back out 1 1/2 turns.
Unless you have BIG tires I would not see why at that hp level you would be tearing up c-4's.
Also you dont want to add the weight,size and power sucking pig of a c-6 in that nice little truck.
Wow...blast from the past! I never did finish the 5.0 Engine swap in the Ranger...it just sits there in the carport with the electrical system unfinished, gathering dust while I go 4-wheeling. See what happens when a new passion grabs you?
LOL...tell me about it!! I was offered a free 92 F-150 for the 302 and auto to swap into my 94 f150. I got my 4.9 out replacing the internal clutch slave cylinder and oil pan, but I'm keeping the 300 in that.
But I do have a 96 2.3 5-speed 2x ranger, and now the gears have turned!! BTW, therangerstation.com has a S-ton of info for this and everything else to do with the little rangers.
Yeah, I know...but I pretty much know what I need to do, just hate wiring and haven't bothered to try to sort it out. Basically, the Mustang the wiring harness came out of has the fuel pump circuit in the main harness while the Ranger has it in the engine harness, leaving my with no fuel pump circuit when I connected the two together. I just have to add one in and sort out a few other glitches (like, it's throwing a code but when I hook my code reader, that circuit is also dead so I get nothing...) and when I jump the fuel pump to make it run and start the truck, it won't cold start without starting fluid...did I mention I hate wiring?!
I too am unsure about this wiring situation, and have thought of just simplifying everything by sticking a tunnel ram and carbs up through the hood
But for now I just need to get it all done with and driveable before I get carried away with dreams and good intentions that leave my vehicles collecting dust for a few years.....
If I had it to do over again, I'd spend the extra bucks on an aftermarket engine swap harness rather than try to adapt a Mustang factory engine harness...that's where my problems started...
I live in Ca. and it still has to pass emissions, so going carbed isn't really an option. And I prefer EFI anyway...