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Well I'm still on my endless search for the perfect truck and I might have just found it.
Well it's a 1977 F250 w/ a 6" skyjacker lift, 35" BFG mudders, tons of engine modifications(guy before him made it for truck pulling), the body is in great shape, it's a 4 spd, interior is perfect, and other stuff I'm probably forgetting.
But there is some stuff wrong with it. The driveshaft needs replacing, there are 3 holes in the floor under the carpet, and the thing that scares me most is the drain plug is welded shut. I haven't asked him about that yet (brought it to my mechanic yesterday).
I'm just wondering how much that stuff will cost to fix and if I can do any myself.
There is no "perfect" truck. Everyone has a different way of doing things and a diff. definition of "perfect", so buy a truck that you like, and you think was well taken care of for a base for your perfect truck. If you look into this one somemore and decide you want it, well you already have a 6" lift installed which is a plus, and I'm sure it at least has the rear locked up with some good gears.
I'd ask what gear ratio it has 4.56 would be good, but 4.10s would work too.
Just make sure the frame isn't messed up since it was set up for truck pulls.
This is just me talking, but Id be real careful and go over it real good. If its "hacked" maybe its giving him some trouble. See if he'll let you drive it for a day before you decide just to make sure it's not a problem child, plus you could check out the gas mileage if that any concern.
He said the engine drain plug was welded shut about a month ago. He said he changed the oil and stripped the plug so he just welded it shut instead of buying a new one since he wasn't driving it, he didn't wanna buy a new one.
He's got 4.10 gears on it.
It drives real nice too. He even offered to give us a spin around the block in it.
I agree with staying away from it....The same guy who welds an oil drain plug shut to avoid a trip to a parts store, and a $6 drain plug is the same who would run year round with no air filter, JB Weld the distributor in place if they loose the holddown clamp, run without a fuel filter, and just all out neglect thier truck.
I spent 6 hours one time to fix an oil pan drain plug after it stripped out on me. Ended up finding a drain plug off of a Neoplan Bus, and re tapped the hole. It was the only reasonable drain plug that was bigger than the stripped hole.
You will find another one, in better shape, if you wait for it. The deal with the truck isnt so much having to get a new oil pan as it is what else the guy might have done half-assed, and what damage it might cause in the future.
I agree with staying away from it....The same guy who welds an oil drain plug shut to avoid a trip to a parts store, and a $6 drain plug is the same who would run year round with no air filter, JB Weld the distributor in place if they loose the holddown clamp, run without a fuel filter, and just all out neglect thier truck.
I spent 6 hours one time to fix an oil pan drain plug after it stripped out on me. Ended up finding a drain plug off of a Neoplan Bus, and re tapped the hole. It was the only reasonable drain plug that was bigger than the stripped hole.
You will find another one, in better shape, if you wait for it. The deal with the truck isnt so much having to get a new oil pan as it is what else the guy might have done half-assed, and what damage it might cause in the future.
Just my opinion.
--John
I have to agree with you on this one John. To weld a drain plug instead of repalcing it is just plane lazy. It does make me wonder what eles he just didnt want to do, because he wasnt driving it. I would keep looking for a different truck. I am sure you will find one out there.
also just my opinion
Guys, correct me if Im wrong, but on some of the engines dont you have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan? How the hell does that guy expect YOU to change the oil after you buy it?? Putting on a new pan could be a nasty job but I'll bet he didnt count on you seeing that weld and I bet he didnt volunteer the information either did he? I would pass on it.
he probably welded it so you wouldnt find the 90 weight oil and sawdust in the pan thats keeping the engine from knocking!!! keep on looking, there are better deals out there on better trucks.....
Guys, correct me if Im wrong, but on some of the engines dont you have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan? How the hell does that guy expect YOU to change the oil after you buy it?? Putting on a new pan could be a nasty job but I'll bet he didnt count on you seeing that weld and I bet he didnt volunteer the information either did he? I would pass on it.
I dont think you would have to lift the engine. I never have had to, but then again I dont think I have ever changed an oil pan on a 77 F250 either. but SwOkcOffRoader is probably right he dosent want you to know about the slick 50 or the 90 weight he put in to keep the engine from knocking.
Guys, correct me if Im wrong, but on some of the engines dont you have to lift the engine to remove the oil pan? How the hell does that guy expect YOU to change the oil after you buy it?? Putting on a new pan could be a nasty job but I'll bet he didnt count on you seeing that weld and I bet he didnt volunteer the information either did he? I would pass on it.
Actually he was quite enthusastic about bringing it to my mechanic, he even drove it over there the same day.
I am also concerned about what else might be wrong, but my coworkers didn't find anything else(that's not listed) wrong with it.
If you know that would be the only thing you know he rigged on the truck, then it wouldn't be that bad of a truck. You could put a new oil sump, or drill and tap a new drain hole.
The truck has alot of the things I would want, but it just sounds abused.
It was built for pulling, so you know something bad would have to happen sooner or latter on a truck that does something that serious, needs new driveshafts, what did he do to them to need new ones!?! The rust holes could be fairly easy to fix though.
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