I hate my truck...
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From: Bored town OH
I hate my truck...
Lately, this P.O.S. truck has been one thing after another. It wont idle (the rpms go from 500 to 900, back and forth), and 10 times outta 10 it will die when idleing. quite a few times actually. start...die...start...die...start...rough idle from hell. Rust is gettin old and grows every winter. And today I started it up my truck and i heard a weird electrical nois when the engine cranked, but the engine kept cranking, but wouldnt start. Heres the wierd part, it kept cranking even when i took the keys out of the ignition...help is needed
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From: Bored town OH
It's EFI. That kinda freaked me out though, I heard a strange sound then it kept tryin to start even when i took the keys out. I had to pop the hood and take the battery cable off.
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Originally Posted by Schmids4.9l
It's EFI. That kinda freaked me out though, I heard a strange sound then it kept tryin to start even when i took the keys out. I had to pop the hood and take the battery cable off.
It's cheap also.
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From: Bored town OH
Well thats good news, I put the battery cable back on and it started fine, but I should sill replace that selinoid. I am pretty sure the horid idle issues is a bad computer or sensor fault. I dont know what I'm gonna do because I'm more than likely getting a 93 f150 5.0 flareside sometime very soon. I'm trying to decide what to do with my current truck, I really dont wanna get rid of it, the 4.9 will last forever! but right now its getting about 11 miles to the gallon out of no-were ever since the idles been screwed up, and gas is 3.00+, so i'm iffy about keeping it. It seems whenever i get it gas its acting like its choking out or flooding, even when it's warm. I'll look into the sensors and stuff to see which one could be causeing that.
thx for the help Ghog
thx for the help Ghog
Last edited by Schmids4.9l; Sep 2, 2005 at 11:23 PM.
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Whens the last time you chaged the distributor cap...
cheap test and from my experience has been known to cause simillar symptoms.
Get your codes pulled or buy a maual and pull them yourself, just because the check engine light isn't coming on, doesn't mean the codes aren't being stored.
cheap test and from my experience has been known to cause simillar symptoms.
Get your codes pulled or buy a maual and pull them yourself, just because the check engine light isn't coming on, doesn't mean the codes aren't being stored.
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From: Bored town OH
actually, I forget the name of it, but its a little clip looking thing that plugs in under the cap, i replaced that. actaully I replaced it a day or two before that all happend.
Last edited by Schmids4.9l; Sep 3, 2005 at 02:11 PM.
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I had the same problem with my 4.9L and ignored it. A few weeks later, it just stopped running and wouldn't fire back up. Turns out it was the distributor cap. I put a new cap on and now it runs fine.
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From: Southern Illinois
11 mpg, wow. Mine gets 16 on the average of city/highway driving. Our trucks are alot a like and I wonder where the 5 mpg difference is. One thing that fixed the horrible idle that I had was replacing the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body. Mine was half sucked in and all hardened up, basically a vacuum leak. Also try cleaning out your IAC valve with carb cleaner.
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From: Bored town OH
I know 11 mpgs is something a early 80's carbed V8 4X4 truck would get, not a 2 wheel job fuel injected 6 banger lol. I'm just worried I wont be able to sell this truck because A. 168,ooo miles (to most people, thats a lot a miles), B. dies after start, if not the horrid idle C. rear main leaks now, and some other stuff.
So I should go to napa or advanced auto and ask for a starter selinoid, or if its someone who knows what their doing, a starter relay?
So I should go to napa or advanced auto and ask for a starter selinoid, or if its someone who knows what their doing, a starter relay?
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Originally Posted by Schmids4.9l
So I should go to napa or advanced auto and ask for a starter selinoid, or if its someone who knows what their doing, a starter relay?
Yes and ask for a distributor cap.
ps. Its in your best interest to take the part out of the box while your there and compare it to the old one, cause there is a chance they'd give you the wrong one.
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And if it is not the distributor cap or rotor, the symptoms are SCREAMING vacuum leak.
Spray WD-40 around the intake while running, and see if it smooths out. if it does, try to localize it. Because you defintiely have a vacuum leak at that point.
Spray WD-40 around the intake while running, and see if it smooths out. if it does, try to localize it. Because you defintiely have a vacuum leak at that point.