So I got the 6A and blaster 2 home today. Can't wait to get it installed. Two questions popped up when looking through the instructions.

1. Which way should I wire it; using the magnetic pickup trigger OR using the white wire trigger. Both are described in the instructions.

What is the difference and what should I do?

2. Where should I mount the box? I would like to mount in the stock location, but will the wires be long enough. Don't really want to add extra length.

Thanks guys,
Matt

 

I don't have the instructions in front of me but if you have the magnetic pickup distributor, use the connections for it. The other connection is for a points setup. If you have to extend the wires to mount it where you want to, go ahead. Just make good splices. Use a fuse at the point where you pick up 12v power.

 

>2. Where should I mount the box? I would like to mount in
>the stock location, but will the wires be long enough.
>Don't really want to add extra length.

I would, and have mounted the ignition box where the duraspark box was. The big thing is to keep it away from heat. With that in mind, you can almost put it anywhere. Here is what I did. I got my switched power from the old Duraspark harnass that has 2 wires going to it. Check with a volt meter to see which one is hot when key is on. Take the lug from the old ing. box, cut it off, and use it to make you connection to your harnass on the truck. I would pull my constant power from the battery, with a 20A or so inline fuse. Look at the directions/specifications page for its power consumption, and fuse accordingly. The only wire you will need to add legnth to is the constant power wire, unless you run it into the fire wall and hook it up to your fuse panel. Cut back the white wire some so you dont hook it up on accident, and tape it up to the rest with some electrical tape to keep it from grounding out.

A not so finished pic of what I did.
[link]http://community.webshots.com/photo/35276426/48045122QZBWIt

Tony

 

The length of the wires is my major complaint with the MSD setup. The magnetic pickup is plenty long enough, but if you want to mount in the old box location, you'll probably have to lengthen the leads to the battery and coil...at least that was the case on my six. If you need the adapter for the magentic pickup (to a Durafart II) I have an extra one still in the box. I also have lots of extra wire...right gage & color too if your interested....I'll send you a care package for cheap. I made minimal changes to the old ignition wires and kept the connectors in tact just in case I have to hook up the old box and cable.....I'm basically done with my trial period and need to invest in a heat gun to solder and shrink tube all the extended connections. Good Luck!

 

And I'll third the opinions above: The constant 12v line is too short, run some 10-12 gage wire to extend it, and the coil wire is too short, you can go 14-16 gage on that one. TK

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

Thanks guys, it's all becoming clear.

I think I will mount in the stock location. I already have the adapter for the duraspark, thanks anyway! Duh, guess it was already explained for me! Looks like I will be going to parts store to get some 10 gauge wire (gotta go anyway-rad cap!)

What kind of seat of the pants feel improvement did you guys get from the 6A, and/or blaster 2?

PS- Really enjoyed your pics masterbeavis, especially the header/butt one!LOL Are you sure that 20 Amps is enough? I can't find any power consumptions numbers in the literature.

Thanks again!
Matt

 

Box and coil should be 1 MPG on a 302. Box, coil, and distributor will be 2 MPG. Highway performance was marvelously improved. I don't see why you need a fuse at all, the box is very tolerant of voltage spikes.

'77 F100, 302 (the aftermarket Prodigy), C4
Cadet Second Lieutenant John F. Daly III
South Carolina Corps of Cadets, The Citadel
The TorqueKing

 

I like a fuse in case the 12v volt wire ever gets pinched to ground. My 390 ran better with the MSD. A 302 did not show any noticeable difference. A MSD will fire a lean mixture better. One nice thing about the MSD is that you can add the advance module and adjust your timing from a control on the dash while you drive.

 

I noticed a definite improvement with start ups. The engine seems to rev better - especially smooother on the freeway. Gas mileage seems to have stayed the same, but overall performance was improved. Nothing changed night and day for my six, but an improvement.

 

i did this swap last fall. so far iu have no complaints. i mounted my box just forward of the old box, just incase i ever need to hook it back up, i also left all of the stock wiring intack, so all i have to do if there is a problem is reconect the coil harnes and such. use the magnetic pickup, it makes it easier to install. also, what i did was, run the white wire into the cab, put switch on it then ground the other end of the switch, and presto instant kill switch. also it is very easy to wire in a tach now if you dont have one
if you mount the box in this location, then use bigger wires . not sure about the gap you should use on the plugs, but i have been running at 44 the book said to use 55 but i have had no problems thus far, will be experimenting with it later. when i did this i still had the stock intake and carb on it and i noticed a big big improvement. now with all the mods i have done i can go from phoenix to la on two full tanks.

1977 F250 460
C6 Hedman Headers
Dual 40 series
edelbrock performer
holley 4160
msd 6a and blaster coil

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Aug-02 AT 11:53 PM (EST)]Hey guys, thanks for all the help. I got the 6a and coil install done yesterday. Most of the time spent was routing wires and putting them into split loom. I hate that stuff!!! But it sure makes the wiring look much cleaner.

I ousted the stock harness. Not too hard to put back in if I ever do need to use it again.

Haven't really tried it out yet, I came across a bad connection for the water temperature sender and had to fix that today. Preliminary is good. Better off idle smoothness and power. Don't know about above 3500 rpm yet.

The one remaining thing to accomplish is to wire my kill switch. I had already run wires from the cab to the engine compartment several months ago during my stereo install, so it shouldn't be that difficult to complete. However I am still undecided on style of switch and location. (toggle/round key switch) Still thinking about the switch that someone mentioned on the board that the 'hot rodders' use that is magnetic and all you have to do is 'swipe' the 'key' over a sensor that is hidden in the dash.

Is there such thing as a momentary switch that is momentarily off to accomodate our negative type kill switch? Would this even work as even after its started the engine would die because of the only momentary 'able' ignition?

Thanks again,
Matt

 

You can get just about any switch configuration except the one you want... No just kidding, I am looking at it from an Engineer's point of view. You can get either momentary OFF or ON or both. Just get a switch that has a good enough DC current rating. The contact material in a switch meant to use with AC current will erode quickly when used with DC current on a car.

You can get switches at an electronic supply store. Those stores and Radio Shack also sell a type of wire bundling material that is made from spiral cut plastic tubing that will wrap around any size bundle of wires. It does not hide the wires like the split tube but it is a whole lot easier to use.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Aug-02 AT 09:34 AM (EST)]Just get a switch that has a good enough DC
>current rating. The contact material in a switch meant to
>use with AC current will erode quickly when used with DC
>current on a car.

What rating should be used? Would a highly rated AC switch work as well (like 10 AMPS)?

I need something small for the location I am thinking of.

I am using a sub-mini toggle right now rated at 3A at 125VAC for my backup light activator (relay powered) and it has worked flawlessly.

 

 

Food for thought, how about using the cigarette lighter as a kill switch? Ya wire it up so that when it is in, it grounds out the coil or somthing like that, or maybe interupts the ground for the ign. box (assuming it wont pick up a ground from the chassis). The idea is that it is simple enuff for a common idiot to miss when they are looking under the dash for a switch. or how about it wont allow the ignition to stay hot?(by running it through the ignition switch), when you pull it out, it wont go is the concept I am reaching for here...

Tony

'77 F250, 4X4 460 transplantee, "Flamer"
'74 F250. 460, "beater" now "1 dead ford"
'73 F250, "midnight auto" now a trailer for the flamer