my 1992 ford ranger ext cab just died on me. i replaced the battery and it still won't start just makes a ticking noise. i don't have any money to take it to a mechanic and no mechanic talent. i must fix it myself however. my mom says it could be the alternator or the ignition. i can't afford to get it fixed professionally i have to be able to do it myself. what do i need to do. please please help me. and don't be rude.

 

The first thing I would do is invest in a repair manual, it will be very helpful. If you know your battery is good then you need to check the starter relay, the starter and the cable that connects to the starter. Make sure that connection is tight and corrosion free. If you definitely hear the starter itself clicking but not cranking, I recommend pulling it off and getting it tested at your local parts store. But buy the book, it will give you things to test and good instructions on what to do.

 

Don't forget corroded battery cables could be the cause.

 

yeah the starter may be bad, but this seems like a connection problem to me. Make sure that the wires are all in good shape.

We are of course assuming that when you put the new battery in the engne did not turn over. If it did, then you have a different problem.

 

no, it did not turn over. i had gotten it started twice before replacing the battery, once was with jumper cables charging the battery and then once when i went out one night to run someone home, it stuttered and then started but when went to start again dead. replaced the battery and nothing, just the clicking. could i possibly get a pricing on how much it is going to cost to do it myself?

 

I would:
(1) Make sure the battery is charged; (2) check the battery cables (1 at a time, then both) by paralleling them with jumper cables and trying to start; (3) check the starter relay/starter by going directly from the battery plus terminal cable to the starter with a jumper cable (be careful). This is an easy way to eliminate some of the obvious things. Good luck.
Dono

 

Following the previous posts will probably fix your problem.

I once saw a battery cable that looked good on the outside, but was bad on the inside. As mentioned earlier, paralleling a jumper cable alongside your battery cable should reveal this. It won't be very easy, and be careful with your jumper clamps. Chances are that it's a solenoid or starter. Don't rule out a bad battery...even though it's new. It's also very important to clean your terminals with a wire brush, both the trucks terminal ends and the battery posts. Sometimes new batteries have a film over the posts that need to be cleaned off.

 

The posts above are very good, and I have also seen cables that corroded on the inside and it eats up the copper. You definitely need to get a manual, a Chilton's or Haynes, at the parts store to help you. I did want to add, however, if you parallel the positive wire with a jumper cable to test certain components, be sure to clamp the cable you are using to the part being tested (i.e. starter; solenoid; relay) FIRST!!!
You DO NOT want to hook it to the battery and then wave the other end around in the engine bay. I know that you probably know that, but since it sounds like you are unsure how to troubleshoot it, I wanted to make sure that you took every safety precaution. Good luck in finding your problem, and I hope it does not cause you too much money to repair!!

 

Have someone tap on the side of the starter with a hammer while you hold the key in the "start" position.. I bet that will start it.

If it does install a new starter.

 

dude don't listen to mazda ranger!!!!

that used to work on old starters, but on the new ones it will destroy them. If he hasn't it's only because he's the luckiest guy in his county.

do the jumper tests, ask for more info if you don't understand them, because I'm tellign you the'yll let you know what's broke. I really think this is a connection problem though, make sure that the cables are tight, have clean posts, and that applies not only to the battery but also to the starter and selenoid. Trace those battery wires to where they go and make sure that all those connections are clean and in good repair.

 

Amish Guy, what changed from old starters to new ones? I've not heard that before...

 

could someone further explain the jumper cable testing theory/idea. where is the starter located on a 1992 ford ranger. what piece is the solenoid. could you tell me the location and what i actually need to do to test. if i do have to replace the starter, which is likely, how much is a new or used one. can i do it myself. what cables do i need to check and or replace. i really need detailed info cause i really need to know how much i have to spend so i can save up to fix it. please help me if you can. don't be rude.

 

If you can't afford the/a book, go to your local library and get one.
Smaller libraries might not carry them, BUT, The larger city libraries carry a ggodly number.
Even if you can't find one for your particular year, find one close.
There should be enough pictures and written info to help guide you in the right directions.
Most things mechanical can be figured out, if you try to figure if this happens, and that doesn't, then what happens ??????

P-A-T-I-E-N-C-E is the key to everything.

/Gene

 

The "patience" suggestion is a good one.

Its not too hard to explain how all the connections work on a schematic diagram or even under the hood, but it's sometimes hard to explain electrical circuits verbally. A Haynes manual (available at most autoparts stores for about 15 bucks) isn't all that great, but is adequate for this problem. You might want to get one and follow the diagrams. I believe your year is covered by the book part number 1026, page 12-32.

If you follow the schematic, remember that the "ground" symbol is the upside-down Christmas tree looking symbol. To simplify the drawings they don't connect these symbols, but really they all refer to one point...and that is the negative side of the battery. Remember, "circuit" gets it's root meaning from "circle". By using jumper cables, all you're doing is making sure there are no breaks in your circle. An example of this is clamping one end of a jumper cable to the starter and clamping the other end to the starter solenoid. (This should be mounted on your right front tire fender well under the hood...next to the battery). Leave the original stuff hooked up. If there's a problem in that area, the truck should start.

Hope this helps

edit: I've had my book a long time. Part numbers may have changed.

 

A trick I have used on my old Fords with a bad starter solenoid/switch was to turn the ignition to the run position, then place a screwdriver over the two posts on the solenoid. This effectively bypasses the solenoid and sends current to the starter. If the starter cranks when you do this then replace the solenoid.