engine comparment
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New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
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engine comparment
Hi fellas,
I've recently puchased a 56 F-100 and boy do I love it! I was looking for parts on the net and I ran into this website. This is is great! Everyone seems pretty cool. I just went to pamona swapmeet this weekend and picked up a steel repofront fender for my truck. I was wondering if you guys could help me out with something. I want to clean up the engine compartment. Are the two struts that run from the top of the firewall to the front end really necessary? I see some guys who leave them off. I don't plan to do any hauling but, I do plan to add an independent suspension to the front end. The kit comes with metal to box the front of the frame. I would really appreciate the help Thanks.
By the way my name is Ern.
I've recently puchased a 56 F-100 and boy do I love it! I was looking for parts on the net and I ran into this website. This is is great! Everyone seems pretty cool. I just went to pamona swapmeet this weekend and picked up a steel repofront fender for my truck. I was wondering if you guys could help me out with something. I want to clean up the engine compartment. Are the two struts that run from the top of the firewall to the front end really necessary? I see some guys who leave them off. I don't plan to do any hauling but, I do plan to add an independent suspension to the front end. The kit comes with metal to box the front of the frame. I would really appreciate the help Thanks.
By the way my name is Ern.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
Ern,
First off, welcome to FTE! Look at the sticky on the top of the page to see how to set up your gallery so we can all drool over your project.
The fender rods sure help get the front sheet metal in line and keep it that way. If you box the frame and prevent it from twisting, you might be able to eliminate them, but I would bet you'd have to figure out another way to keep the large U shaped channel that holds the radiator stable. It only has a couple of bolts holding it towards the center-not very stable at the corners.
I'm sure others will be along shortly to offer their input.
Good Luck!
Kent
First off, welcome to FTE! Look at the sticky on the top of the page to see how to set up your gallery so we can all drool over your project.
The fender rods sure help get the front sheet metal in line and keep it that way. If you box the frame and prevent it from twisting, you might be able to eliminate them, but I would bet you'd have to figure out another way to keep the large U shaped channel that holds the radiator stable. It only has a couple of bolts holding it towards the center-not very stable at the corners.
I'm sure others will be along shortly to offer their input.
Good Luck!
Kent
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
Ern -
Welcome to FTE! You'll like it here. There's a bunch of swell folks ready with answers - some of them useful. Have a thick skin. We joke each other a lot.
I, too have a 56 and I run it without the rods you mention. My truck has a FatMan Mustang II IFS also and the frame has been boxed back to the firewall.
I like the access to and look of the engine without the rods. The radiator frame does have some wiggle, but seems stable enough. I have noticed that keeping my (front-tilt) hood lined up to the cab shape is a little problematic, though. I plan to replace the rods with polished stainless ones just to help stabilize the ront sheet metal and solve that problem. Without the boxing, I'm not sure how much flex you'll get in the front sheet metal when you take out the rods. They may be more useful on a stocker.
I guess the answer to your question is that they are not required. I suggest you take them off and save the parts. Run it a while and see what you think. You can always add them back later.
Set up a gallery! We like pictures. You can see mine by clicking on my name in the header of this post, then click on "View Gallery" in the drop down menu.
Let the FUN begin!
Welcome to FTE! You'll like it here. There's a bunch of swell folks ready with answers - some of them useful. Have a thick skin. We joke each other a lot.
I, too have a 56 and I run it without the rods you mention. My truck has a FatMan Mustang II IFS also and the frame has been boxed back to the firewall.
I like the access to and look of the engine without the rods. The radiator frame does have some wiggle, but seems stable enough. I have noticed that keeping my (front-tilt) hood lined up to the cab shape is a little problematic, though. I plan to replace the rods with polished stainless ones just to help stabilize the ront sheet metal and solve that problem. Without the boxing, I'm not sure how much flex you'll get in the front sheet metal when you take out the rods. They may be more useful on a stocker.
I guess the answer to your question is that they are not required. I suggest you take them off and save the parts. Run it a while and see what you think. You can always add them back later.
Set up a gallery! We like pictures. You can see mine by clicking on my name in the header of this post, then click on "View Gallery" in the drop down menu.
Let the FUN begin!
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 3,730
Likes: 13
From: Waynesville, OH
Glad you found the forum! 
Great bunch of folks and a nice family atmosphere. Ask all the questions you want. You'll usually get lots of answers - some are even relevant and a few contain something useful. 
Great bunch of folks and a nice family atmosphere. Ask all the questions you want. You'll usually get lots of answers - some are even relevant and a few contain something useful.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
Welcome. I was planning on going to the Pomona Swap Meet, but with a bad knee I figured all the walking wasn't going to happen. I've a got a 56 also. When I bought the truck it didn't have the rods in the engine or on the hood. I personally think they look great and I purchased both the engine and hood rods(original ones) on ebay. I don't know if it stiffened the engine or hood any, but I just like the look( it gives it a classic nostalgia look). The stainless ones are a little thicker and polished, they look sweet. Whenever I went to a car show and noticed the rods, they stood out, especially chromed. I guess it's personal choice. I know sometimes they get in the way, especially working on the carb. Love to see some pics of your truck.
Last edited by imlowr2; Aug 30, 2005 at 08:59 PM.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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I just came in from working on the truck. Thanks guys for the replys. I will take all of your comments into consideration. I really appreciate the help. I do like the idea of keeping it nastalgia because I bought some mooneyes finned valve covers for it but, I also like it open. I want a retro type look to it. I will try to post pics of the work in progess when I borrow my brothers camera. It still needs lots of work. Thanks a bunch!
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Mine came without the ones to the front fenders (the front end had been converted to flip, then converted back) but I plan to put them back but use the polished SS ones. Where do they attach at the front end? I have the firewall brackets but not the front ones. Anyone have a set they don't need?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
AX -
JagRed54 has a picture of the front bracket in his gallery. See link below. It is a clip with a hole for the rods and it bolts to the inner/outer fender bolt and a bolt thru the top flange of the air dam. You could make your own.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=21048&width=2
JagRed54 has a picture of the front bracket in his gallery. See link below. It is a clip with a hole for the rods and it bolts to the inner/outer fender bolt and a bolt thru the top flange of the air dam. You could make your own.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=21048&width=2
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, So Cal
AX -
This is the stock rod bracket at the fender corner:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58432&width=2
This is a non-stock rod that Ed must have added to stabilize the radiator core support. Looks pretty cool to me! The radiator doesn't look stock.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=48911&width=2
This is the stock rod bracket at the fender corner:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=58432&width=2
This is a non-stock rod that Ed must have added to stabilize the radiator core support. Looks pretty cool to me! The radiator doesn't look stock.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=48911&width=2
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 3
From: okla
It seems like Mid-50's has the brackets??? I would also like to remove these rods. On my 40 Ford I have removed the similiar setup that supported front fenders to front crossmember and replaced with supports off each framerail that posistions front sheetmetal with no movement. I have had 3 40's done this way with no sign of problems. I don't see why it would not apply to our trucks. Unless you plan to drive on lots of rutted dirt roads, then you might want to keep the rods. I believe that was the purpose of these types of support, to allow some flex. Once I get my front sheetmetal where I want it, I will give this a try. I am not there yet. I thought a 40 passenger car was tough to fit up front sheetmetal . Ha! Joe
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I thought I'd ask if someone had a set laying around since a lot of people have taken theirs off, but I can fabricate a set based off the ones on the hood, I just wasn't sure where they were supposed to go.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I took the X rods out of the radiator support and made them able to be bolted on in front of the air dams so I'd have more room for the AC condensor in front of the radiator. I'll probably put a rod across the top of the support since it springs open almost an inch when you take out the X rods.