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For 9" rear-end. I just dont want to be messing around with somehting I am not very familiar with. I am looking for a bolt it on, bleed it and go setup. thanx
I've never heard of one either, but its really not that hard to rebuild the drums anyway. I did mine in an afternoon.
The main thing to remember is to remove both drums.........but then only work on one side at a time. Leave the other alone until you are completely finished with the first so you have it as a refernece.
BTW doing my rear brakes including drums and complete rebuild kits for the assembly cost me right around $300 for my F-250 camper special.
you would probably have to pay twice that for something plug and play.
:-staun
There's not much to rebuild back there. I replaced the drums for $30 each and the shoes for about the same. About the only part that gets rebuilt is the cylinder and those can be purchased for about $10. The guts (spring, boots, etc) that go in the cylinder are about the same.
The onlt reason you'd have to replace or rebuild the cylinder is if it's pitted real bad.
I replaced pretty much the whole system except for the hard lines in a day (albeit a long day). That included replacing both rear wheel cylinders (one was leaking), shoes, calipers, pads, rubber lines, and master cylinder. I didn't replace the drums but had them turned.
I'll second the part about keeping one side together until you've finished the other. Pictures in the manual just don't compare. Been there done that. Also (this from my father's experience) don't step on the brakes until both the drums are back on. Apparently he brainfarted and forgot to put one of the drums back on (passanger side, I assume). Blew the pistons out of the cylinder and brake fluid everywhere. Wish I had seen that, but alas it was before I was born.
All true and good advice as well. I recommend you buy a set of brake spring pliers and a brake adjusting spoon and have at it. Or pay someone to do it.
William in Atlanta
I don't get it...are you replacing the linings or what? If you have a leaky cylinder you can: A.buy new cylinder and replace, or B.Get a cylinder hone and some new silicone plungers.
Check the reflection in the inner cylider walls for pitting and match up the plunger diameter. You won't be honing it enough to go up a size so match the old ones, honestly pulling the axle for a brake job is like a hydrogen bomb to kill a mosquito...way too much work. You will want to make sure the inside drum diameter is in spec and not too scored. Above all have fun!
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