synthetic yet?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Neenah, Wisconsin
synthetic yet?
Ok...so i want to switch over to mobil 1 oil...i'm at 5500 miles on my 2005...has it been long enough to switch yet? I switched my sportbike over at 1800 miles...i'm guessin my truck should be ok too...but i wanted to get a second opinoin...thanks guys..
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If you have the need for a synthetic, Mobil One is a good one. However, don'y buy into the advertizing hype that your engine will last longer. PAO basestocked oils like M1 do not have anymore lubricity than a dino oil. They are the same hydrocarbons just different lenghts. The average user generally has no clue what type of synthetic he is buying. Some are GP III dinos, PAOs, and Polyol. With the 930 Ford speced oil recommended for your engine, staying with a 5w-20 oil pretty much guarantees you that it is at minimum a synthetic blend. It's your money and your truck payment, you can change to synthetic at any time as the factory fill is a blend.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Minnesota
I asked a mechanic friend of mine about switching to synthetic and he recommended waiting until at least 10 - 15 k before switching over to full synthetic. He said you want to make sure it's broken in very good before doing a switch. Is he right??? Don't know but that's probably what I will do. Just my thoughts.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
as flash stated their is no point. now for the bad news mobil is only rated at 2.6 on the ford test that means it barely passed and was .1 away from failing the test. any 929a spec oil is a blend and is a very good choice for your engine.
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I understand that in recent years, corvettes have been coming from the factory with synthetic. I truly do not know first hand as I have never owned one but you do have to admire their stats.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Twin Cities MN
Switch to M1 anytime you want to. It meets all Ford 930A specs, and as others have stated, even though HTHS is at 2.6, most other 5W-20's are right at 2.6/2.7ish. I guess the most important part is that it meets all Ford 930A specs.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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The advantage of a synthetic oil is that it behaves like a multi viscosity dino oil with out the addition of VIP(viscosity increasing product). As more miles are put on the regular oil, the VIP breaks down and your 5w20 oil will start acting like a 5w15 oil and lower as it breaks down more.
I had a boat that, with dino oil, would have good idle oil pressure when it was cold but as it warmed up, the idle oil pressure would drop. With synthetic oil, pressure remained constant at all temperatures and RPMs. This was with both oils being a 10w30.
I switched over to synthetic right away. No need to wait these days with modern engines.
I had a boat that, with dino oil, would have good idle oil pressure when it was cold but as it warmed up, the idle oil pressure would drop. With synthetic oil, pressure remained constant at all temperatures and RPMs. This was with both oils being a 10w30.
I switched over to synthetic right away. No need to wait these days with modern engines.
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babock, I'm not sure where you got the info in the first paragraph but it is wrong.The 930 speced oils wearing the 5w-20 viscosity badge are the most viscosity stable oils you can buy, including high priced synthetics. I can only hope that the synthetic oil you use in your boat is for marine use. Automotive synthetic oil in a boat is a recipe for extremely high wear metals. Especially synthetics as they don't protect naturally the engine parts from corrosion. Tackifiers are used but have only limited success. If you don't use your boat several times a week, either change to something like Rotella T dino or a marine grade synthetic which will have the necessary additional add pack. Your oil is also having to hydrolize more moisture than an automotive engine and the additives must be there or wear is accelerated.
kize, don't confude a basestock or a quality of oil on lousy engine design. The Vette suffers from a large front main bearing that is on the very end of the lubrication trail. Synthetics are a must because of their flow properties especially at cold startup.
kize, don't confude a basestock or a quality of oil on lousy engine design. The Vette suffers from a large front main bearing that is on the very end of the lubrication trail. Synthetics are a must because of their flow properties especially at cold startup.
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Originally Posted by Flash
babock, I'm not sure where you got the info in the first paragraph but it is wrong.The 930 speced oils wearing the 5w-20 viscosity badge are the most viscosity stable oils you can buy, including high priced synthetics. I can only hope that the synthetic oil you use in your boat is for marine use. Automotive synthetic oil in a boat is a recipe for extremely high wear metals. Especially synthetics as they don't protect naturally the engine parts from corrosion. Tackifiers are used but have only limited success. If you don't use your boat several times a week, either change to something like Rotella T dino or a marine grade synthetic which will have the necessary additional add pack. Your oil is also having to hydrolize more moisture than an automotive engine and the additives must be there or wear is accelerated.
kize, don't confude a basestock or a quality of oil on lousy engine design. The Vette suffers from a large front main bearing that is on the very end of the lubrication trail. Synthetics are a must because of their flow properties especially at cold startup.
kize, don't confude a basestock or a quality of oil on lousy engine design. The Vette suffers from a large front main bearing that is on the very end of the lubrication trail. Synthetics are a must because of their flow properties especially at cold startup.
Uh, yeah, what he said.
The 5-20 Motor craft oil is VERY Good oil.
I use it, and I think it's a great deal for blend oil.
I use the K&N (Champion) oil filter because it is superior to the Motorcraft filter.
Ford also thinks the Champion is better, because that's what they put on at the factory...
Chris
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Since everyone is aregueing the point....
Mine came with synth blend according to the dealer. changed it the first time at 3500 after a trip to georgia. Changed it again today at 8500.
Both times I ran Moble Synth blend oil. 7 quarts of it to be exact. Got to love that big 5.4
Mine came with synth blend according to the dealer. changed it the first time at 3500 after a trip to georgia. Changed it again today at 8500.
Both times I ran Moble Synth blend oil. 7 quarts of it to be exact. Got to love that big 5.4
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Twin Cities MN
Well, since the original poster asked if it was OK to switch to M1 yet, I guess the answer is YES.
Regardless of HT/HS or cost or GM engine design issues, there is no harm in switching at this time, and there is no possible way running ANY 930A oil be it GrII, GrIII, GrIV, or any combination heretofore mentioned should harm it. Since obviously he wants to run M1, more power to him.
Regardless of HT/HS or cost or GM engine design issues, there is no harm in switching at this time, and there is no possible way running ANY 930A oil be it GrII, GrIII, GrIV, or any combination heretofore mentioned should harm it. Since obviously he wants to run M1, more power to him.