Original problem: Got in truck after it sat all day and would not crank at all. Changed CPS (bought at Auto Zone) and it immediately started but began the problem below:
This problem only happens in the morning, and after sitting more than 3-4 hours. Any other time, or after several restarts it runs and idles fine. Also, when problem is happening, it is like momentary off of the key and sometimes it will recover and continue to run and sometimes engine dies, depending on RPM. When the problem goes away it is not gradual, it just suddenly begins to run normally. Get ES light when it happens and I went to Auto Zone to have them read. The guy wanted to kill the truck to plug in, no codes and no light after restart.
After reading other threads with similar problems, I have done/checked the following:
Changed CPS, changed Oil and filter, changed fuel filter, checked level in HPOP (it's almost 1" from top), checked Glow Plug Relay (works everytime), ohm wire from relay to harness connector (good), ohm each glow plug (range from .6 to .9ohms to ground)
Odd thing that had me check the glow plugs was this morning I plugged heater for a couple of hours before attempting to crank and I cranked and ran with no problems. Is there anything else that I can check? The problem just seems to be when engine is cold.


Thanks for any help

 

Just an update: plugged in heater last night and no problems this morning, idled and ran like a champ. I am planning to go back through the glow plug checks this afternoon, but I double checked everything as I was checking yesterday --- any other suggestions?

 

Check your wiring harness from your glow plug relay to your glow plugs. Mine shorted out and would be hard to start when it was cold. I took mine into the dealer after it started shorting out the fuel injectors and they replaced the entire engine harness. It took them 3 days to figure out what it was though.

 

what year is the truck.I have an 03 that i had to replace the glow relay.I to was having a hard time to start.BTW if your truck still has the motor warrenty the relay is covered.Even if the relay is clicking,that does not mean that its working.Pull it off and check it for burnt spots on and around the studs.U can also test it by hooking a volt meter to it in the morning to see if the side going to the glow plugs is putting out any current.

 

Here's a thread that I started last year with pictures of the wiring harness shorting out against the push rod. I had to replace the connectors in the engine harness for the offending glow plug wires. Then all eight would heat and the truck starts smoke free on a freezing morning.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=278697

 

Sorry for no replies back from me, I have several relatives just north of New Orleans and have been spending most of my time in front of CNN. My problems suddenly seemed trivial.

I will use a volt meter to recheck the glow plug relay and wiring harness. I assumed that ohming each glow plug (I had .6 - .9 ohms) at the plug going into the valve cover would tell me that the glow plugs and harness were good without having to take off the valve covers.

Will check and keep you updated

 

Have you heard from them yet? I was shocked at how big that storm was. Pretty near filled the Gulf before it hit land.

 

Kwik where do you buy the glow plug relay wires. Does it come in a kit or ??. Im starting to have a hard start problem with the weather outside being 100degrees so I could just imagine in the cooler temps. Let me know..

 

Heard from them yesterday, they were able to drive to a location with occasional cell phone service. Only talk a minute and disconnected. It was amazing, they had no idea of what was happening in New Orleans, and the amount of destruction in MS and AL.

 

I assume that you are talking about the valve cover wiring harness??? I would get them from International.

 

Well I finally found the problem a couple of days ago..... After rethinking (and checking numerous items over a two week period), I went back to the original problem which was a bad CPS. When I replaced the CPS, the problem began with the engine stalling (like turning off the key, then back on). This would happen until the engine reached ??? temp, and the problem would go away -- good idle, good power,no problems until the truck sat for several hours (or overnight). If I plugged in the block heater, I would have no stalling problems.
After checking glow plug related problems, I went back to Auto Zone and told them about the problem that had started when I installed the one that I had purchased there --- they gave me a new sensor. I installed it and the same problem (also no codes). After checking several other things (what's the odds of two bad sensors) I went to the local International dealer and purchased another CPS. PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!! Having both brand CPS sensors I noticed a BIG difference in the strength of the magnet in the one purchased from International--- Leason Learned the hard way!

One question -- is something "advancing" based on CPS signal while the engine is cold and is no longer "looked at" after a certain temp?

 

No. Fuel timing and injection quantity are advanced when the engine is cold, but these calculations are based on engine oil temp, manifold air temp, MAP, Baro. etc.

The cam sensor is nothing more than a crank trigger. It outputs 12v. to the PCM when a spoke from the target wheel passes it, and 0v. when it detects the spaces between. The target wheel spokes and spaces are each 15 crank degrees, except for a narrow spoke which indicates cylinder No. 1 and a wide spoke which indicates cylinder No. 4 (fires 5th).