Square holes?
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Square holes?
I'm going to be starting to put new wood in the bed of my truck. I ordered the stainless metal strips which hold the wood down to the frame, etc. The strips came with no holes. I want to take my old strips on the truck and match them with the stainless ones. The old strips have a square hold for a carriage bolt. What's the best way to make these holes or mount these strips? Someone told me the put a thin strip of plywood down first and then mount the oak planks and stainless strips. I already got the stainless bolt kit from Dwayne (Fatfenders).
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ed -
My suggestion would be to lay the old strip over the new. Mark the square holes with a felt marker (for finish size) and then drill the holes to pilot size. Remove old strips and drill out the holes to almost full size. I then would use my "Air File" with a tri-corner file to zip the holes out to the full size square. This tool is from Harbor Freight. It has been invaluable for stuff like this. You could also use a regular file, of course. I used the air file to resize the square holes in my bumper after narrowing it and to size the cutouts for my tail light brackets thru the bedside. Cool tool.
(HF Air File p/n 01704-2HJH, $39.95 + 4 pc air file set p/n 01946-0HJH, $9.99)
My suggestion would be to lay the old strip over the new. Mark the square holes with a felt marker (for finish size) and then drill the holes to pilot size. Remove old strips and drill out the holes to almost full size. I then would use my "Air File" with a tri-corner file to zip the holes out to the full size square. This tool is from Harbor Freight. It has been invaluable for stuff like this. You could also use a regular file, of course. I used the air file to resize the square holes in my bumper after narrowing it and to size the cutouts for my tail light brackets thru the bedside. Cool tool.
(HF Air File p/n 01704-2HJH, $39.95 + 4 pc air file set p/n 01946-0HJH, $9.99)
Last edited by Randy Jack; Aug 27, 2005 at 10:43 AM.
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Postmaster
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From: Santa Clarita
I would return them but I purchased them on ebay and it's been over a year and being stupid, I only pulled out a section of the strips to make sure they were OK and didn't even bother to look if holes were punched. No biggy. I just had too many other projects that took priority and I put them with the wood to the side. I checked with Sears tool department and they told me they were fresh out of square drills. Nice try !!!! 
LOL....
Randy, I'm going to order that file you mentioned. Looks like a must have tool. Then I'll give it go. Thanks for your help.
LOL.... Randy, I'm going to order that file you mentioned. Looks like a must have tool. Then I'll give it go. Thanks for your help.
Last edited by imlowr2; Aug 27, 2005 at 11:11 AM.
Clean & Classy
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Riverside CA..
Ed, I think you have the hidden mounting stainless strips, that is what I ordered and they came with bolts attached to plates that slide into the strips to where you need them to match up with your crossmembers. That way there is no heads to catch the duster threads on.
I hope I made sense. Wayne
I hope I made sense. Wayne
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Postmaster
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From: Santa Clarita
Wayne, I know what your saying, these didn't come with the clips or the bolts. I ordered a set of stainless bed bolts from Fatfenders a while back. I may just have to drill and do like Randy said. Only problem is, there a whole hell of lot holes to drill and file. LOL....
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Just a note, I checked on the air file with Harbor Freight. Very cool tool. It's no longer $39.99. It's $49.99 + the files. Probably thanks to increased gas prices. LOL... Still a must have tool. Save some knuckles.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ed -
Sorry about the price hike. I must have an older catalog.
The trick to using the air file is to let it do the work. Take your time on each hole and use light pressure to guide it to the line. Use one of the bolts to check size before moving to the next hole. Yeah, it will take a while, but they'll be perfect. Get the file set too.
Good luck!
Sorry about the price hike. I must have an older catalog.
The trick to using the air file is to let it do the work. Take your time on each hole and use light pressure to guide it to the line. Use one of the bolts to check size before moving to the next hole. Yeah, it will take a while, but they'll be perfect. Get the file set too.
Good luck!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
Here's my suggestion, do you live near a industrial sheet metal fab shop? Maybe you could take the strips to them and have them punch the square holes on their Iron Worker machine or they may have some other kind of machine that can do the job. I know it won't be cheap but just think of the time it will take you to mark each hole, then drill through stainless, then file stainless and hope everything is in the correct place and shape. I have to drill and cut stainless once in a while for project that either go in food areas or highly corrosive enviroments, it's not a fun job.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ed -
Bobj has a point. I forgot to mention that after the pilot holes, I use one of the Harbor Freight step drills to take the holes out to size. Those things work great for sheet metal They make clean round holes in just about any material. HF p/n 93144-1HJB - $9.99.
Bobj has a point. I forgot to mention that after the pilot holes, I use one of the Harbor Freight step drills to take the holes out to size. Those things work great for sheet metal They make clean round holes in just about any material. HF p/n 93144-1HJB - $9.99.
"Mifflin Clay"
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Mifflin, PA
Depending on the size of the hole, perhaps an electrician's hole punch - I know theyre available in 1/2" square, don't know about smaller. Might be tough to punch if the stainless is heavy. Still have to drill a hole to start the
punch.
punch.
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Postmaster
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From: Santa Clarita
There is actually a sheet metal place near by. I just purchased some sheet aluminum from the guy. May be worth a trip to see if he can punch the strips out. Great suggestion. Thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
I had to drill and file out new square holes on the flanges at the bottom of the fender sides, in 16 ga carbon steel. I drilled to 5/16" in steps, then used a square hand file. It goes surprisingly fast, but that is in carbon steel and only about a dozen holes. I think it is going to be really difficult to file SS that is work hardened like those strips. I'd go with getting them punched for sure.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
SS is a LOT harder than mild steel and will dull a drill bit in a hurry! I burned up a brand new bi-metal holesaw blade trying to cut a 2" hole in the bottom of a 28ga SS pet food bowl. I could not get a standard HS drill bit to drill the small screw holes I needed in it, so I ended up using using a solid carbide rotary burr with water cooling. It will dull a file as well. I vote for the punch machine. If you can't find someone with a punch machine then drill the holes oversized in the metal the size of the diagonal of the square under the bolt head. Drill the bed boards the size for the bolt shank, and pull the square part down into the wood as you tighten the bolts. No need to cut squares into the wood.
Last edited by AXracer; Aug 28, 2005 at 10:00 PM.