73 ford engine swap
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: NE Ga
73 ford engine swap
I own a 73 Ford F100 360/C6 3speed that gets 10mpg on a good day
. I work at a fleet shop for a school and have become interested in the 5.4 Triton in a 1998 E350. Wanting to know the possible problems encountered if i swap the full 5.4 with e4od into my truck. If that seems to be too tall of an order, what could i possibly do to my 360 2 barrel motorcraft? Thanks
. I work at a fleet shop for a school and have become interested in the 5.4 Triton in a 1998 E350. Wanting to know the possible problems encountered if i swap the full 5.4 with e4od into my truck. If that seems to be too tall of an order, what could i possibly do to my 360 2 barrel motorcraft? Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2003
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Assuming you have the whole donor truck, you've got most of the parts you need. Might have to fab the motor mounts. You'll need the wiring harness, fuel pump, plumb a return line, engine control computer, maybe the rear end. Not sure on the last one.
To make the 360 run better, Headders and a free flow exaust are a good start. Any part that fits a 390 will fit the 360. Better cam, check down in the FE forum for suggestions. Cam timing was retarded on later motors, get an early timing set to advance the cam. The 2 bbl carb may be ok for economy but put a rebuild kit in it. General tune up couldn't hurt. Do the standard maintenance stuff for economy (tire pressures fluids, etc).
Good luck.
To make the 360 run better, Headders and a free flow exaust are a good start. Any part that fits a 390 will fit the 360. Better cam, check down in the FE forum for suggestions. Cam timing was retarded on later motors, get an early timing set to advance the cam. The 2 bbl carb may be ok for economy but put a rebuild kit in it. General tune up couldn't hurt. Do the standard maintenance stuff for economy (tire pressures fluids, etc).
Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Springfield, OR
Yes as stated above do everything you can tuneupwise for the 360, but what really gulps the gas is the C6-only 3 speeds and no lockup converter. The easiest most cost effective way I think is a Gear Vendors overdrive behind the C6-just shorten the driveline and bolt it on and you have 6 speeds to boot. I converted to a 5 speed from my C6 and more than doubled the mileage but it was ALOT of work and money. If you do an E40D you want a 95 or later with all the upgrades and mods or you can expect trouble.
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From: NE Ga
Thanks, my thinking if I use the 5.4 is get a rolled van so I can use the whole package (motor,tranny,electronics etc) but I have heard that the 5.4 has thrust bearing problems around 100,000 thus causing oil leaks from a moved crank. My 360 and C6 both have been fully rebuilt by me and my father who has much experience in fords...just not the newer ones. It was put back together all stock and the carb has been rebuilt at least twice and tuned to best running. As for the timing I took my boss's advice and set it at 10 btc even though the motor calls for 3. Runs great but sucks the gas and lags a little more than I think it should after comparing it to my fathers 390 realizing it had higher compression and a 4holley. Thanks for any guidance
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
well i see your problem right there. tmming should be set at 6 to 8 btdc for the base timing then vacuum advance kicks in are you running vacuum advance . also hook up a vacuum gauge to the engien to see the amount of vacuum it pulls the higher the better.
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From: NE Ga
I've got my vac advance on a ported vac on the side of my motorcraft 2brrl and it pulls to somewhree around 30 when advanced. The guy I work for said I should check my carb jets to make sure they're both the same as if one side of the motor was pulling harder than the other but I don't see how that could be b/c thats the original carb from the factory. I've also heard that the stock intake on the 352-410's tend to be very restrictive but like I said I just rebuilt the motor 5,000 ago and would really like to work with what I have. Thanks for any info.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
well hook a vacuum gauge up to it. the main jets just screw in and it is possible at one time someone changed them they are about 1.90 to 2.50 each. you need size 57
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From: NE Ga
Just so theres no confusion or peeing in the wind, my 360 has been fully rebuilt to stock and the only mod's made has been my ignition system which has been changed form points to "Pertronix" electronic ignition with the "P" coil. Bluestreak brass dizzy cap and rotor, new plugs wires. Its got the original motorcraft 2brrl rebuilt and tuned with a Sears diagnostic to 700rpm idle. I know my valve timing is all good b/c the timing set is 5,000 miles old and were put on correctly at the rebuild. After all this the motor still seems to lug up hill with 3.00 gears and a newly rebuilt c6 3spd. The exhaust is new with 2 40's flowmasters. Its almost like my engine won't wind up at idle but at 30 if you stomp it she winds up real nice to a high rpm and the power kicks in. Possibly my power valve is dumping fuel at idle b/c she can be sitting idling and floor it and she just kinda uuugggggs through all the gears until you're out of gas. Any info will help b/c I'm running out of hair and gas money fast.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
there is alot more to setting a carb then using a diagnostic testor. you need to adjust the timing and carb to get the most vacuum. i fine tuned mine and get about 14 mpg freeway with a 3.00 rear end and c-6 you want to pull close to 20 in vacuum.
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From: NE Ga
what is the best to way to set your timing and carb at the same time and know you're getting the most vacuum? do i set the 2 carb adjusters to the smoothest run first and then set my timing to a certain degree?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Brentwood,CA
hook up a vacuum gauge and see where it is at. then adjust the timing until the vacuum goes up a little then adjsut the idle mixture screws until the gauge is reading its highest and the needle is steady.