Ok, here's the deal. I have a 1979 Ford F100 302. I installed an aftermarket radiator from Pep Boys about 9 months ago because the engine was overheating on the highway. I also installed a 160 thermostat. The new radiator and thermostat worked, especially since the radiator was much larger than the original. The new one mounted up the the other holes on the front of the frame....I'm assuming is was intended for the 351 or larger.

Here's my problem. About two weeks ago, I noticed the engine running warmer than normer, plus it would heat up past halfway normal at an idle. It didn't do it before, that is after the new radiator. I didn't know what to make of it.

A couple days I installed an Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, and Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb. I installed a new 160 thermostat, and fresh coolant/water. I accidentally broke the shroud, so I left it off. I adjusted the timing, and carb mixture; and the truck runs great....expect the cooling problem is back. Its not overheating, at least I don't give it a chance to try. I took off the factory fan and put on a 7 fin flex fan. That seems to help out some.

Does the radiator fan shroud make that much of a difference? It seemed to be acting funny before the engine mods though. In addition, its not running as cool on the highway as it did before. I would think all the air passing through the radiator would cool it like normal.

Does anyone have any ideas....

Oh ya, how about some advice on my future mods ideas. This is what I'm thinking......

Hooker headers, with a 2.5 inch exhaust that runs through a single inlet/dual outlet muffler on each side ending with dual slash tips in front of the rear wheel on both sides....kind of like the Lightning.

Does anyone know which headers work best....Hooker, Hedman, etc?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-02 AT 01:57 AM (EST)]I really dont think the shoud matters it may run warmer without it but not overheat. With the new carb a lean mixture could get it hot. But if your running a 160 with a 351 rad this should never overheat. You may have a waterpump problem run the truck with rad cap off till it warms up and look in the rad to see if you can see the water flowing through the cores. It is possible on an old engine/waterpump for the impellor to actually rot of the waterpump. Take a look into this and keep us posted. There is another possibility i highly doubt which could be if the truck wasnt maintained well the block could actually have blockages.

Good Luck Andy

 

A couple of things to check. Some Ford 351's needed a small hole in the thermostat. I believe it was 351 Clevelands. It could be all as I am not positive. The other thing is when you replaced the water/antifreeze mix run the truck for 10-15 minutes without the rad cap on to allow any air pockets out of the cooling system. Make sure it warms up to the point where the 'stat opens. I know the hole in the 'stat sounds dumb but a friend of mine did major damage to his Cleveland because of the wrong one. It took out the head gasket which in turn put tons of water in the motor which took out the cam and on and on and on.

 

I to have a 79F100 w/302 and i recently replaced the stock radiator(2 row)with a larger(4 row) radiator.I also have a rv flex fan and the thermostat is a 180 degree stant.My first recomendation is to put the fan shroud back on it will make a difference.My second is like the other replies said to make sure you have flow in the radiator.



Wiz

 

I may have been confusing....I have a 302 that I put a larger radiator in....possibly one intended for a 351 or larger.

I've done everything except let the radiator cap off for 10/15 minutes. I did it for a couple minutes when I filled it back up, I figured that would be enough....but I'll try it again.

I haven't tried putting a hole in the thermostat. I have a 160 in it. Shouldn't it just be staying open all the time?

I checked the timing and mixture. When the engine was rebuilt, it was dialed in with 8 degree of advance. I set it back to that, and ensured that the carb isn't running lean. In fact, I think I may still be a tad too rich.

The water pump was replace less than a year ago, and the fluid seems to flow fine in the radiator.

I can't seem to find a shroud to fit the radiator. I bought the radiator at Pep Boys. I'm assuming it is the same as the stock dimensions ( for the larger radiator that is). It lined up perfectly with the drill holes on the front of the truck for the larger radiator. Does anyone know where to get a shroud. I guess my last resort would be an electric fan, but I really don't want to do that.

 

You have to look for a shroud for a F150 w/ac i was lucky i had a donor truck.

Wiz

 

Hello there. This is my first post so I don't want to sound like a smart a#!

My situation: I have a '79 F150 4x4, 400, auto, lifted with healthy tires. A few years ago I put a fresh engine in and bought a replacement 3 row radiator from Autozone. Exactly like stock. The body lift will not allow me to install the shroud without modification to the radiator support and A/C condensor. I will sometime when I'm not feeling lazy and want to tear apart the whole front end.
My truck runs like this. Builds up to normal temp right away. If I go on the highway and push 60-70 mph I will get hot after 45-60 minutes. I believe that the air is not being pulled through the radiator properly. Also I am missing the grill heat shields. I plan on those too someday. Just tooling around town it will eventually build up the temp as well. I had a holley 600cfm on it until this spring when I went EFI. No difference.

I suggest:
1. Get a shroud. They may not have the one that says '302' but I think they are all the same except for the 460 which uses the 'Super Cooler'. Go to www.dennis-carpenter.com These shrouds are made from the FORD Tooling and may be worth the extra $.
2. Check the heater core. This may sound stupid but if the heater core has too high of flow rate, coolant rushing through too fast, the pump will not circulate to the radiator. You see, the pump needs to draw coolant from the radiator and then the thermostat will push it out. If the heater core is causing a short loop of the coolant the radiator will just sit on the sideline. Does the truck still have the heater control vacuum valve? If so, shut it once and see what happens.


Write back if this helps or if you already figured it out.

 

I had but A flex fan on my truck but it started to overheat on me so I put the stock one back on and it moves way!! more air than the flex fan, and no more overheating. You may want to try putting on the old fan and see what happens cant hurt to try right?,

Just my experiance,

Joe

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Sep-02 AT 08:49 PM (EST)]>I had but A flex fan on my truck but it started to overheat
>on me so I put the stock one back on and it moves way!! more
>air than the flex fan, and no more overheating.

Was the flex fan large bladed or small the rv style are large blades and will move as much as the stock one.I went from stock to the rv fan and mine ran much cooler.I have'nt had much luck with fan clutches........Just my 2cents

Wiz

[link:www.clubfte.com/users/thewiz427/index.html|"Wiz's Place"]

 

hmmmmmm......heater core vacuum huh. I wonder if we may have disconnected it when we put the new carb in. I will have to check.
Thanks for all the good advice from everyone.

 

Herk,why are you running that thing so cold ? I put a 205 stat in everything, you should too. Running at 160* will only wear the engine faster and burn up more fuel. Why would you want to do that ? DF

 

I drive a 1977 f100 manual 302. A few weeks back the temperature gauge was running on cold all the time, even when working the truck hard. I had the gauge checked and it was ok. I then pulled the thermostat out and it had come apart, so it was open all the time. There is no fan shroud on my truck and the fan is stock, so the cooling on my truck being standard is so good that without a thermostat it runs cold. Try bleeding the system again, and check the thermostat by bringing it to the boil in a pot to check if it is opening fully, even a new one can be faulty.

As for headers(extractors) I had tuned length headers(ie four into one) on my truck in the past and when they wore out I was talked into putting on interfearence (ie four into two into one) I have regretted it ever since. The tuned length headers worked better at higher revs and were just as good lower in the rev range, if not better. The only disadvantage is that they hang down lower under the truck and can be snagged easier.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 08-Sep-02 AT 10:19 AM (EST)]I was running a 160 thermostat because I was afraid of it overheating. I'll try a stock 180 and see what it does. I had bought one of those Autozone Generation II 160 thermostats. Its suppose to be better.....but I'm not impressed so far.

As for running it so cold, I was always told it was better for the engine.

The new Edelbrock Performer Intake shouldn't be making it run hotter...should it?

 

>I was running a 160 thermostat because I was afraid of it
>overheating. I'll try a stock 180 and see what it does. I
>had bought one of those Autozone Generation II 160
>thermostats. Its suppose to be better.....but I'm not
>impressed so far.

Stick with what the specs call for.


>As for running it so cold, I was always told it was better
>for the engine.

No..... every engine has a certain temperature it runs at for opitmum performance.


>The new Edelbrock Performer Intake shouldn't be making it
>run hotter...should it?

No



Wiz

[link:www.clubfte.com/users/thewiz427/index.html|"Wiz's Place"]

 

You sure that you don't have a head gasket leaking?
Also REPLACE THAT SHROUD!!! you'll be amazed what a difference it will make!!