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I've tried to do as much research as I could without posting... the symptons are leading me to a dual mass flywheel problem, but I want to make sure.
I have a 95 F250 4WD PS. Usually when I start the truck, it does this shaking and chattering thing, and then smooths out after 5-10 seconds. Usually a quick jump on the throttle will make it go away as well. Sometimes when I come out of gear and hold the clutch in, it will also do the chattering and shaking (warm or cold engine, doesn't matter).
Any thoughts? Also, if it IS the dual mass fly wheel, the common approach seems to be converting to a Luk solid flywheel. The kit for everything between your crank and tranny is less than the dual mass flywheel alone.
The truck is stock now, but an exhaust, intake, and chip are in its future. Is the solid flywheel a good idea?
Dual mass flywheel.
Ford uses a two-pieces flywheel to dampen out the engine vibrations to prevent damage to the ZF 5-speed trans--99 trucks equiped with the new 6-speed trans have a standard flywheel. Occasionally either the bearing that supports the rear half of the flywheel fails, or the dampening springs loose their tension. The result is a rougher idle, sometimes described as a miss at idle, often accompanied by a rattling noise. Increasing the RPM usually negates these symptoms. Running the KOER and Cylinder Contribution tests makes the noise worse. Replacing the dual mass flywheel is the only fix for this situation. Use P/N F7TZ-6477-DA.
Go with a solid kit. My whole kit cost alot less than the DMF alone. It feels alot better too.
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Does anyone know if you can replace an early (1994.5) Dualmass with a 1999 or newer flywheel.
I talked to a towing company friend that said they put a solid flywheel out a wrecked 2000 in a 1997, but they needed different bolts. Any thoughts?
Luk makes the best kit new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, through bearing all the bolts to mount the flywheel and clutch. A line-up tool to center the clutch in pressure plate even a new bearing for the input shaft in the flywheel.
Go with the luk, you won't be sorry. My only advice is to get another throwout bearing. When I installed mine, the new bearing from Luk squeeled. I have heard of a few other guys that had the same problem. But as far as the clutch, I love mine.
Thanks for all the info guys, I have a buddy at the local dearlership that can get the kit from napa (I guess its a luk, napa just puts their name on it). His cost is only $400 (they quoted me 600 for the same kit), and he's only going to charge me minium for labor - $245!! I like to do my own work, but that's a lot of stinking work for only $45 more total.
I'm catching up on an OLD post, but I figured I'd put a follow up in for anyone researching the same topic.
I've had the clutch in for two years, the kit came from NAPA as said earlier. I believe Luk is the actual vendor though. It was also an upgrade to 13 inches.
Working great so far and cleared up all of my problems. I do still have a lope at Idle though, but I think that is another issue. The only issue I've had, is that under heavy load it seems to grab real bad went starting off, even in first and with 4.10 gearing. Although, its a rare occassion when I tow a heavy load (10K lbs or better). I'm hoping that I just need to work it a bit more to smooth things out so it doesn't grab so bad. I don't think empty driving uses this clutch enough like it was meant to be. We'll see...