Any one ever had to clean out an injector bore hole? I had a copper leaking and not seating causing carbon build up after splitting the injector in the hole and much trouble I finally got it out. Now before a new one goes in the hole will have to be de-carbed and cleaned so that the copper will seat. any one done this with out removing the head or have any tips
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First bring that cylinder to TDC. Carefully remove the Glow plug do a search for GP tip breakage and precautions. Using a vacuum cleaner you can scrape the bore while vacuuming without putting any carbon into the cylinder. Do not score the sealing area where the copper seal sits. Snapon has a brush tool for cleaning the bore if your really need it.

NOTE.... any carbon that enteres the cylinder can cause the same as hydrolocking and jam the piston and head with the same results bent connecting rods or worse.

Here is info for telling which piston is at TDC.............

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand. Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8oclock has cylinders 3,8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left(passenger) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side, front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

Rotating the engine by hand several rotations before starting would be wise also..any binding could be carbon buildup in the cylinder. We can address that if it happens.

Ensure you clean the groove in the base/tip of the "injector" where the copper seal sits, it is a vital part of the compression sealing.
Using antisieze on the copper seal, threads and lightly on the complete barrel of the injector will help in injector/carbon removal should leakage happen again. Injector torque is 35ftlbs.......

 

thank you PLC7.3 Iwill give that a try and let you know how it goes. I was thinking of pushing air into the glow plug while scraping/wire brushing the carbon but woundering how the matting surfaces (base/tip) would get clean i will go get a wire brush Thanks again

 

If the base/sealing area is badly carboned I use Mercury Power tune spray on a rag....to disolve it. ""Boat stuff""

 

Just curious if there are any additonal techniques/feedback/"experiences had" that people wanted to share. I am afraid of getting **** in the cylinder so I will try to be as vigilant as possible. I though I remember reading about turning the engine over with out the injectors in to blow crude out. Also making sure to reinstall the injector pump before moving the engine at all so i don't change my timing at all. Although I'm not sure how good it is for the pump to cycle with out any lubrication(diesel) in it.

Thoughts,
Devin

 

If it were me, I'd feel better about running an air line from a compression tester fitting from the glow plug hole to to keep positive flow out of the injector hole rather than vacuuming through it

 

OH, I like that alot, not sure about how much pressure I could build or time frame I would have though, I definitely would not be able to spray carb cleaner at it. I could probably do that when I brush it though.

Devin

 

If your compressor is medium sized and you have a regulator set it to say 20psi, that should be plenty provided both valves are closed. The compressor shouldn't have any problem keeping up.

 

Meh, a little carbon won't hurt anything. Why? Because, seriously, how much carbon is in there? Maby 1CC? The pre-combustion chamber it would fall into is like 50CC in volume, and it would get tossed out the exhaust immediately anyway.

Sure, try to keep as much out as you can -- I used paper towels on a screwdriver to get most out of the bore - but a little bit really won't hurt anything.
If you have a lot, just use a vacuum cleaner and a screwdriver to scrape at the carbon. The heads are iron; you'll have a really tough time doing any damage to anything with a brush or screwdriver(well, as long as you aren't, like, hammering the screwdriver with a maul... Then you might scratch it).

edit:
Oh, and I thought I might add... Hydrolocking requires a /lot/ of water.
Back before I knew about hydrolocking, I read somewhere that spraying water down the intake would help clean injectors and carbon.
So what do I do? Get the engine idling and take a freaking garden hose with a spray head on it. I recall wondering how much was needed, as a spray didn't do anything. I think I actually opened it up all the way, dumping a full garden hose worth of water into the intake, for a few seconds. The idle RPM dropped slightly, but that was all that happened.
Drove that truck for a couple more years without issue, until I had an injector come apart on me when trying to remove it, and couldnt figure out how to get it out back then.

 

Yeah I went with just running the starter after reattaching the injector pump to spout out whatever was hanging on in there. Needless to say I think I got it all out.

Cheers
Devin



Carbon problems

 

I hydrolocked the green f350 atleast 20 times. I don't mean sputtering and dying I mean engine full rpm going through water and and bang! Dead stopped (zf5). Put it in neutral, have a friend drag it out, pull the plugs, crank it.over water would shot out of 2 or 3 cylinders then it'd fire back up and keep going. That efi 460 was unstoppable. A couple times the motor was even seized and I had to drag it in gear with my dump truck with the plugs out. Still ran. In the end I killed it racing a 4 wheeler and shifted from 4th to 3rd, it locked up instantly and sent the 2 girl pasangers into the dash lol

The f150 with an inline 6 cylinder and was hydrolocled atleast 5 times. 10 years ago I wasn't into 4 wheelers in just bough trucks to use as one haha

 

i used a shop vac with a 1/4" brake line dukt taped to the hose.
with that, a shotgun bore brush on a drill, and some PB i got em pretty clean.
finished off with a rag, and vacuumed again.

 

Thats some interesting advice, it is important to remember how rugged this stuff is. Its easy to get caught up in the "conventional wisdom" outlined on the forums and try to do everything so delicately you could pass as a 'Truck Surgeon'.

Anyway when I get home tonight, making up the return lines and putting the hard lines back on and hopefully will fire her up.

Wish me luck,
Devin

PS I am also picking up some crowsfeet to see if that helps any with the re installation of the hard lines.

 

I just did this on my truck a few weeks ago. I found this brush to be really good at cleaning off the injector seat, but not doing much for the bore:
Brush Research Mfg Co Inc FB 75 Flat Bottom Brush 3 4 Dia SS | eBay

I got this brush for cleaning the bore, but it leaves some to be desired for the seat.
https://store.snapon.com/Injector-Br...--P635579.aspx

After thoroughly cleaning the bore and seat (they were REALLY bad), I just got the air hose out and blew most of the gunk out and then cranked it over for a second to try and get any remaining carbon out. Haven't had any issues yet.

Edit:: I forgot to mention that both of those brushes were specifically designed for cleaning the injector bore of the IDI.

 

I will say to those who attempt this job in the future, make sure you have good brushes that will fit, I del I probably could have cleaned the seat better if I had a brush like that.

Devin