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Hi all
Well my 01 v10 has 74k on it now and one of the exahust manifold bolts broke and started to leak.I tore into the job and found that all the bolts are rotted and ended up breaking when i tried to remove them.I cant understand why things are so rotted for a 4 year old truck.Ford should be ashamed of this.I have heard that this is common.Anyway,Does anyone know if its ok to heat up the aluminum a bit to assist on removing the broken studs with a easy out?
The aluminum will suck the heat away so fast that it does no good and if you were to heat it with enough heat to do good it would probably warp...So what I had to do on two of my studs was to mig weld onto them and use vise grips to try and turn them out. The welding worked after many hours..I would avoid drilling you can't drill the lower one's any how. Use new ford studs and nuts.. My studs were not that bad since they are galvy from factory and I live in salt land...I had to go back and forth for an hour to get one out without breaking it..Use 8 mm tap to clean holes out. Lotsa never sieze..
99 is a man who knows what he is talking about, but let me offer some differnt ideas... i just did this process too this weekend as i enstalled banks headers on my truck and bolts broke when i removed the stock manifolds... Anyway i was able to drill upper and lowers using a right angle air drill, then i used the counterthreaded bolt removal things....( for lack of correct name?).. found out parts store... after many unsuccessful attempts, i DID heat them up with a torch... really concentrated the heat on the bolt, was able to get them out.... two broken studs, 5 hours, two trips to parts store for misc. tools and bits.... huge pain in the rear!!!
Boy Rob you are more Brave than I. I hate drilling cause if you are not in the center the threads get chewed. I was thinking an angle drill might work but it musta been tight..Good job.
this something common for me. i use a left hand drill with a reversable angle drill and some drill guides that fit inside the manifld to get a centered hole going then pull the manifold and drill untill i can use the straight eazy outs into them. i never use a tourch as it gets the head to hot and locks the stud harder. i do use a heat gun though. before you put the manifold back on take it to a machine shop and have it straight milled . due to the long size of 5 cylinder manifolds they warp out
Thanks for all the input.I drilled the stud and it walked into the aluminum a bit.After getting the ath stud out i ran a 8mm tap into the hole.Seemed to be fine but when i titened the manifold up it just pulled the stud out.Then for my final trick i ran a 3/8 tap into the hole and got a 3/8 stud.Everything seems to be fine now.I still cant beleve the crappy job ford came up with on these manifolds.
you can believe it. buts it not only ford the most of them have gone down to 8 mm"5/16" size studs and it don't work. i'm putting my headers on asap to help off set this type of problem. and cuting the flanges so each port has only it's own to worry about