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I have a 1965 F-100 with four wheel drums. The old shoes were worn out, so I replaced them which seemed simple enough. I've done my own brakes for some time now, no big deal, right? Wrong. I cannot get the back into adjustment. The backing plate is obviously worn down on the rear left drum, it seems to be giving me the most problems. I had to buy new drums for the rear brakes, they will barely slide over the shoes, but now the wheel just binds when I try to turn it. It is not an even bind, it's tough to turn for most of it's rotation, but for 1/4 of a turn it's almost impossible to move. The star adjusters are all the way in.
I've also lost all feel in the brake pedal. It never had much to begin with, it barely moves at all (is this normal for this type of truck?) but now it has none. I keep bleeding the system but to no avail. Any help, advice or personal experience with the matter would be appreciated.
One last question. How easy would it be for someone with decent mech. skills to rip out the old axle and drop in a ford 9", probably from a junkyard. A price estimate would be helpful also. Thanks.
If wheel cylenders are siezed it would be tough to get new pads in there without binding. Just a thought, I am in the middle of the same thing on my 64. New Pads, new drums, and after I got it apart, new cylenders.
As for the rear end, you probably already have a 9", unless it's out of a 250. It is the older 28 spline 9".
Last edited by 66MercMan; Aug 22, 2005 at 03:46 PM.
Something isn't right. If the wheel cylinders are properly retracted, the adjuster is screwed all the way in, and the shoes are properly installed, the drums should fit with no problems. Are you sure they gave you the correct drums?
Not all 65s or 66s came with those 9" FoMoCo rear axle assemblies. 65 F-100s can be Dana 50's if the SLick came with 240 cid engine and a 3spd, or 3spd OD, column shift.
As for the 9" interchange they are a bolt in from 57 through 72, although there some different pinion flange locations may exist.
73 through 79s are NOT a direct bolt in replacement since they are 3" wider, the spring perches do not align, and the wheels get moved outward 1.5" on each side. It can be a problem with wide wheels & tires. But center chunks from 73 to 79 can be used in earlier housings, as long as correct axle length & spline count axles are also used with the later chunk or 3rd member- center section.\
As for drum brakes, are your Parking brake cables free or are they rusted stuck and is your parking brake adjustment correct? If the cable/ cables are stuck, or if there is radical over adjustment of the Park Brake system the problem you describe will occur.
Tellem FBp, my 65 F-100 came w/ dana 44 I have 2 of em . One built in mid west Kan. plant & one in New Jersey . Both of em dana 44's one auto & one 3 speed.
Thanks for all the replys. Where to begin? The new drums seem to be the right size (with considerably thicker walls). They're from NAPA and weren't cheap, so I would hope thats not the problem. As far as the parking brake goes, I took the cables out of the yoke before I did the brakes, they shouldn't be binding. My truck is a 1965 F-100 with a 300I6 and a T-18. I don't know which rear end this leaves me with, any links to pictures and descriptions of ford rear ends would be great. The backing plate is worn down on the brake that's giving me the most problems. It actually wore a knife edge into the old drum. The bottom inch of the plate is mostly gone, worn down by the old drum. This might be imparing the rotation, I don't know. Thanks again.
Hows the axle bearing?
If it has a ford 9 inch rear it will have no cover on the back side of the axle housing and nut holding in the center section on the front side.
As for the worn pad on the brake plate you can braze them up and file them down but i perfer MIG welding as the weld is steel and the repair last. People forget to dab "brake Grease" on those pads.
I was working on it again today and there is definently a problem with either the axle or the wheel bearings. When I was turning it I noticed that it was probably a few hundreths on an inch out of a perfect rotation. I'm going to get it with a dial indicator to be sure, but it's definently an issue. Regardless, I'm going to do a full rebuild of the rear end. And yes, it is a Ford 9", thanks for the help in identifying it. I come from a Jeep background, I'm better with Danas and AMCs. I'm going to get new wheel cylinders, and if I can find them, new backing plates. The is a little bit of wear on the other side too, so I figure I'll just do them both. On that topic, who sells the backing plates? Or is this going to be another junkyard run (they now know me by name)? Any suggestions on a good pair of less expensive axles? Thanks again, maybe my slick will be on the road here before too long.
Any links to the technical specs (bearings, spline counts, ect.) would be greatly appreciated since there seems to be a number of variables concerning the 9".
Hmmm. If the axle itself is bent, I begin to worry about the housing. It might just be better for you to buy a used axle assembly complete. Until you buy an axle, backing plates, etc how far away from a complete used axle with diff from the salvage yard will you be, and still possibly have a bent housing?
The wear on the backing plate -- is it from the drum rubbing all the way around, or just at one point, like at 6:00 or 9:00 etc?
If you have a bent axel, it should rub all the way around, though I suppose if its bent "just a little" it might only contact at the tightest point on the backing plate. I don't think an axel should have much wobble at all. If it does, its bent. I can certainly imagine a bent axel causing you to have the kind of trouble you are describing.
Or, is it possible that someone bent the backing plate? Maybe with a log, or stone or something? Or maybe someone had the truck up with tires off and they sat it down onto a block on just the drum or backing plate.
I wasn't aware that backing plates really ever wear out -- they have no real moving parts, just the pivot points for the shoes etc. You might want to go ahead and pull the axel (not hard, do a search here or get a shop manual) You have to take out the bolts which are access through the hole at the end of the axel. 4 of them. Then bolt on as heavy a peice of chain you have to one of the lug bolts and "snap" the chain like a whip. Have a friend there to catch the axel.
The 65 will have sealed bearings that run OUTSIDE the grease seal. You will probably ruin that seal, if its not shot already. Its not hard to replace -- but a large socket from a 3/4" socket set sure comes in handy when you drive the seal in. The bearings have to be pressed on to the axel. I don't recall how they are removed -- would have to look, but I assume one just "pings" the retaining ring with a set punch (which lossens the retainer). There is a retainer that is pressed on the axel as well. But if the bearing is ok, then don't screw with all that.
Now, if the axel is bent, you need a new one. But the good news is that you should be able to find that axel pretty easy. It will be a 28 spline from a 58-72 F100 with 9" rear. I am almost certain that they are all the same. I saw a fellow on ebay selling them for $20 a while back. The 9" chunks are salvaged, but the axels and rear housings are often just melted down. I remember being at an auction where there was a pile of axels that just went for scrap -- they make great tent stakes for really large circus tents too!
Is there any slop (up and down). Maybe the bearing is worn out. If able, can you take some pictures and post them; this is sure an interesting problem...