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I built an engine similar to what you are considering about 15 years ago and still run it in my 66 now. 360 block bored .060, cast pistons, .010-.020 390 crank, 428 windage tray, melling pump, C2SE-B heads, stock 4V intake
I did have it balanced and use a remote oil filter. I also pluged the lifter gallies and run a solid lifter cam. A few years ago I installed a "mexican" overdrive transmission. With the 3:70 gears I drive it like a regular 4 speed and get very good fuel millage. The only problem I see is that I "over camed" it and it is a little short on low end torque. This is a great engine and with a RV cam would be even better.
With the engine bored 60 over, does the engine run hot or does it ever overheat?
Okay, my parts came in yesterday and I am happy. The pistons go to the machine shop tomorrow to match the bore.
Is it possible for someone to run a Desktop Dyno just so I could get an idea of the power this build will produce, it would be extremely helpful.
360 block bored to 4.1100
.60 over TRW-L2291F60 forged pistons
Crane 941 cam
2U 390 crank and matching rods
Melling HV oil pump
C7AE-A heads (Ported with CJ valves, not sure what the chamber size is on this)
Hedman headers 1-3/4 to 3inch
Crane XR-i electronic points conversion
Edelbrock performer RPM /or/ performer 390 intake manifold (can you show me the difference between the two?)
Stock non-adjustable Rockers /or/ Crane Sportsman Roller Rockers (on back-order)
Holley 670cfm Truck avenger carb (carb too small? what would you recommend for an off-road truck?)
I have ARP hardware for everything, including the oil pump drive-shaft. I would like to thank you all in advance for helping me put this together. This is my first time and I want to do it right.
Holy crap! I was thinking it was gonna be 370-380hp at best, but these numbers ease the pain of having spent all that money. Thank you Russ! This totally makes my day and I have a job interview in 30 minutes!
Don't go with any larger of a carb. You will sacrifice low end performance. Also take a look a Barry Grant he has a new off road carb. I like that one a little better IMO.
I am also building a 390 but im on a budget. I need to have a good ofroad motor for under 1500. What can i do to get torque and some hp out of this motor for cheap?
439 hp? I have a very similar build- same cam, intake, kb 150 pistons, same bore, holley 600. By the seat of my pants it doesn't seem to hang with a 5.7 L Tundra, but I haven't actually raced one. I've been smoked by a 24v cummins. If I had it to do over again, I would run cast 360 pistons or the forged trw/speedpro pistons. Now I want to get mine on a dyno!
Croof- I spent the most money on machining, most expensive parts were intake and pistons. get a 390 builder cheap, run the cast pistons, and an s code iron intake. buy a 4v holley or edelbrock used on ebay or from a u-pick-and-pull and rebuild it. You may still spend more than 1500.
This was such a great thread and I'm sure a lot more guys than I have used it.
One thing could be added tho - what duration cam would be best for a build like this? I'm about to order all the parts, but have no idea on cam grinds.
I have the crane 343941 which is mentioned by a few others who participated in this post. at .050" lift Crane says it 216 degrees intake and 228 degrees exhaust and lift of .533" intake, .563 exhaust. I think it runs great, but still runs out of breath around 4500 rpm (my truck has pretty stock heads, a performer rpm intake, and a 600 cfm holley; running at 5000 ft elevation). For a 4x4 that I daily drove for a long time and still hunt and fish out of, its great. If I were doing motorsports of any kind, I'd go bigger.
I mean that's peak power by the seat of my pants. .600 would refer to lift not duration. No I wouldn't go bigger for a daily driver or a truck used for towing or practical 4 wheeling. If its a 2wd that only gets run at a drag strip or street races, or a 4wd that's only used for mud races, tractor pulls etc, then yeah BIGGER. I don't know at what point you have so much valve lift that the pistons need to be modified- you'll have to talk to your machinist about that....
That's a long way of saying that a bigger cam could be better or worse depending on what you're trying to do.
I looked at your blog, and now have a better idea of what your going for. 500 hp at 5000 rpm is unrealistic without a power adder or A LOT of compression. getting that much normally aspirated will involve a driveability trade off. The kind of cam and induction combo to make that kinda power with 390 will result in poor low end performance and have to rev way higher than 5k. Also, there's no way your doing it with stock heads. What's the altitude at your location?
As for a DIY turbo. A coworker of mine recently built a twin turb ch*vy 350. Made around 600 hp..... for about 1500 miles before it had a hole in the side of the block with what was left of a rod sticking out. I seriously doubt an FE will fare much better with more than just a few pounds of boost.
Desktop dyno is cool and all...I'm sure there's people all over the internet that will claim such numbers.... but I'd like to see a printout from a real dyno supporting any such claim. I live at 5000' and I think that my motor might make an HONEST 300-350 hp (it has never been dyno-ed). If you want that kind of power at such low rpm, build a stroker 460 and be done with it.
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