I just got this truck 87 f150 FI 302. It runs fine when your foot is on the gas while driving. But if you want to drive slow it kinda shimmys and the engine feels like it may be missing and there seems to be a knocking sound when this happens. It will also loose power while driving down the hwy, but after a min or so it will go back to the normal (what ever that is)I got a code 33 from autozone and I am replacing the egr this weekend hopefully. The plugs are fine I checked them yesterday. I have taken a look at the vacume lines and it looks like they are all connected,I dont have a diagram though to be shure they are all where they are supposed to go. There were the two vacume hoses that came off wile checking the driver side plugs and I have re connected them to where they are supposed to go I think, they were pretty close together so i cant be sure if i got them right or not. im gonna climb in there again today to duoble check. The truck will idle fine, its just while driving it. there is one broken hose comming from the big black soup can looking thing, the hose is broke in two but when i connect them nothing is different .hmmm. I did take off the egr and spray it out and tried to clean it as i thought i could but no change in the problems. I could send pics of the two hoses if any body would want to take a peek. Also I have a question on placing a picture of my truck here, how do I do that? thanks for reading.. Jon

 

I just fixed the broken hose and took of the little grey thing off of the egr while the engine was running. There is no air running through the hose that connects to the egr, is that how its supposed to be? and nothing moved, the egr did not open while running or even while it was off when i cleaned it. The switch did not move either when it was unplugged and then plugged in. is this normal?

 

If replacing the EGR doesn't help, I'd suggest doing a basic tune-up on your truck. Change your spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and air filter. As far as posting pictures of your truck, click on galleries, then click on manage your gallery, and it pretty much goes thru a step by step process of creating a photo gallery. I hope this helps.

 

Could be the throttle body intake manifold is dirty. My truck sort of stuttered at 35 to 40 miles per hour and lost power on the highway. Wa fine at slower speeds. I replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires and it did not help. I cleaned the throttle body and it runs fine now.

 

33 being EGR Opening Not detected could be any of the EGR parts.

The EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) is what sends vacuum to the EGR to open it. The EGR is not open during idle btw. The EVR has mainline vacuum coming into it at all times, sends ~8mmHg vacuum to the EGR when its called for to open it fully by the computer, and otherwise vents that EGR vacuum line to atmosphere to be sure the EGR closes. Note that it has two vacuum hoses; one to the EGR and one to the vacuum tree.

The EGR Valve Position Sensor (EVP) is what detects the EGR opening and closing. The pintle on the EGR moves the EVP which send the "opened" signal to back to the computer by way of a variable voltage. When the EPR vents the vacuum line the EGR closes and the signal back to the computer drops in voltage. Note this is a variable voltage, the more the EGR opens the more voltage gets sent back to the computer. Yes the computer can also detect when the egr is not opening or closing enough. There are two EVP's one grey and one black which are not interchangeable. Min/max voltages follow. Grey: 0.5/3.9 Black:0.9/4.4 (+/- 0.2v)

EGR Valve is a fairly simple mechanical part. Vacuum should open it and you should be able to visually see it open. You've already cleaned it so if it doesn't open with vacuum then replace it.

Start by checking the vacuum lines, with those broken hoses you might not be getting vacuum to the EVR.

A cheap service manual from an autoparts store would help greatly in testing. A Haynes runs about $18 here in NY

Welcome to FTE Neoflee
Popa Tim

 

hey thanks, So if it wont open while ideling, I take the button thing off of the egr and step on the gas? and I should visually see it open? right? SHould there be vacume push on the line to the egr while the truck is ideling? Thanks again, I'll be getting a manule soon.

QUOTE=Popa Tim]33 being EGR Opening Not detected could be any of the EGR parts.

The EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) is what sends vacuum to the EGR to open it. The EGR is not open during idle btw. The EVR has mainline vacuum coming into it at all times, sends ~8mmHg vacuum to the EGR when its called for to open it fully by the computer, and otherwise vents that EGR vacuum line to atmosphere to be sure the EGR closes. Note that it has two vacuum hoses; one to the EGR and one to the vacuum tree.

The EGR Valve Position Sensor (EVP) is what detects the EGR opening and closing. The pintle on the EGR moves the EVP which send the "opened" signal to back to the computer by way of a variable voltage. When the EPR vents the vacuum line the EGR closes and the signal back to the computer drops in voltage. Note this is a variable voltage, the more the EGR opens the more voltage gets sent back to the computer. Yes the computer can also detect when the egr is not opening or closing enough. There are two EVP's one grey and one black which are not interchangeable. Min/max voltages follow. Grey: 0.5/3.9 Black:0.9/4.4 (+/- 0.2v)

EGR Valve is a fairly simple mechanical part. Vacuum should open it and you should be able to visually see it open. You've already cleaned it so if it doesn't open with vacuum then replace it.

Start by checking the vacuum lines, with those broken hoses you might not be getting vacuum to the EVR.

A cheap service manual from an autoparts store would help greatly in testing. A Haynes runs about $18 here in NY

Welcome to FTE Neoflee
Popa Tim[/QUOTE]

 

Leave the EVP (gray thing) on the EGR valve. If you remove it, the EGR will never open.

Follow the vacuum line off the EGR valve. This vacuum lines connects to the EVR. The EVR also has another vacuum line connected to the intake. Once you find the EVR, you'll see it has an electrical plug connected on it. The plug has 2 wires on it.

Now, looking directly at the plug, splice into the left wire(PIN 33). Make sure that this one doesnt have 12V on it!. With a short piece of wire, ground PIN 33 wire you just spliced.

The EGR valve should open when PIN 33 is grounded. You should hear the engine wanting to stall. If it doesnt open, check the vacuum line at the EGR valve. Is it sucking ? If its not sucking the EVR is bad. If its sucking, but EGR does not open, EGR valve is bad. If the EGR valve does open, but you still get code 33, EVP sensor is bad.

phew, hope you understood, lol

 

thank you. I will try in the morn

 

got another one for ya, I tried to change my transfer case fluid today but the damn plub is totally stripped out. I tried using a screw driver to chissle and maybe be able to turn it like that but it just crumbling, the fluid feels like water, and I get a loud squeeking noise while in 4x4. Is there a way to change the fluid with out removing the drain plug?

 

will it be sucking while the engile is ideling?

 

i grounde it out like you said, and it does try to stall, and I had the wife hole the vacume and it does suck? hmm?

 

Ok, so the EGR Valve and EVR are working properly. The last thing is the EVP....luckily, thats the cheapest part. There is a test for it, but you need to learn how to pull codes yourself...an easy task. http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13 That is a great website showing how to pull codes, test sensors, and various other things.

 

fi 302, is that a throttle body? If so how do i clean it?

 

replaced the evp today, still does it. It seams that it only does it after the engine gets hot.

 

So I got a new evp yesterday, and put a new egr on today , but it still does it. Im taking back the new egr tomorrow. I have came to the conclusion that it only does this when it gets hot. For instance, I ran to lincoln today (40 miles) and it ran fine, but after I got there it started running like **** again, like it was missing. so I put on a new egr and still did it. But after i let it sit, and drove home when it was dark and it ran fine with no probs. And only does it while driving. What would get hot and and make the engine run like crap. Thermostat? cap?rotor/ plug wires? had it tested today and got a code 20. btw I got a manual today and code 20 isnt in there.