4x4 not working
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From: Southdakota
4x4 not working
I know this post may need to be in the super duty but I am a V-10 owner and have become very partial to you guys and you have helped me with quite a few things so Im shure this will be no problem.
I went fishing the other day and when I put my truck in 4wheel to get back up the boat ramp my A/C started blowing out the defrost and no 4wheel
I know that the 4wheel is ingaged by a vaccume line and that is more than likely my problem, but before I tear into it I wanted to know if any one has had this problem and where the line is routed. I diddnt hear a leak under the dash so I assume that the proble is under the truck? 
Thanks for the input guys
JT
I went fishing the other day and when I put my truck in 4wheel to get back up the boat ramp my A/C started blowing out the defrost and no 4wheel
I know that the 4wheel is ingaged by a vaccume line and that is more than likely my problem, but before I tear into it I wanted to know if any one has had this problem and where the line is routed. I diddnt hear a leak under the dash so I assume that the proble is under the truck? Thanks for the input guys
JT
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From: Long Island USA
If it's like my '01:
There's a vacuum resevoir on the passenger-side wheel well, under the hood. Right next to it (follow the vacuum line - red, I think) is the solenoid to control the vacuum pulse.
There is only a 20 second pulse to lock the front hubs, and a 5 second to unlock, there is no constant vacuum applied to the hubs. You can manually lock the hubs (if they move anymore) to get you out of a situation like this.
Did the a/c come back on about 20 seconds after you first turned the **** to 4x4? If so, the vacuum leak is AFTER (or IN) the vacuum solenoid.
Follow the black line from the solenoid, down the passenger side of the engine compartment, and it goes underneath to both sides.
I'd check the line right at the steering knuckle first - just turn the wheel all the way out, and you can see it plain as day - to me, when it breaks, that looks like the place it would happen.
If it's not an obvious vacuum line problem, it's possible for the vacuum solenoid to leak. You'd have to test it with a vacuum guage and a hand vacuum pump to see if it's the solenoid. With the solenoid off (not trying to lock the hubs), use a hand vacuum pump with a guage on it, on the supply side of the solenoid, and build a vacuuum, like 20-25 inches. BLOCK OFF the output side of the solenoid (the side going to the hubs). Energize the solenoid and see if the vacuum bleeds off. If it does, the solenoid is leaking internally.
art k.
There's a vacuum resevoir on the passenger-side wheel well, under the hood. Right next to it (follow the vacuum line - red, I think) is the solenoid to control the vacuum pulse.
There is only a 20 second pulse to lock the front hubs, and a 5 second to unlock, there is no constant vacuum applied to the hubs. You can manually lock the hubs (if they move anymore) to get you out of a situation like this.
Did the a/c come back on about 20 seconds after you first turned the **** to 4x4? If so, the vacuum leak is AFTER (or IN) the vacuum solenoid.
Follow the black line from the solenoid, down the passenger side of the engine compartment, and it goes underneath to both sides.
I'd check the line right at the steering knuckle first - just turn the wheel all the way out, and you can see it plain as day - to me, when it breaks, that looks like the place it would happen.
If it's not an obvious vacuum line problem, it's possible for the vacuum solenoid to leak. You'd have to test it with a vacuum guage and a hand vacuum pump to see if it's the solenoid. With the solenoid off (not trying to lock the hubs), use a hand vacuum pump with a guage on it, on the supply side of the solenoid, and build a vacuuum, like 20-25 inches. BLOCK OFF the output side of the solenoid (the side going to the hubs). Energize the solenoid and see if the vacuum bleeds off. If it does, the solenoid is leaking internally.
art k.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
If it's like my '01:
There's a vacuum resevoir on the passenger-side wheel well, under the hood. Right next to it (follow the vacuum line - red, I think) is the solenoid to control the vacuum pulse.
There is only a 20 second pulse to lock the front hubs, and a 5 second to unlock, there is no constant vacuum applied to the hubs. You can manually lock the hubs (if they move anymore) to get you out of a situation like this.
Did the a/c come back on about 20 seconds after you first turned the **** to 4x4? If so, the vacuum leak is AFTER (or IN) the vacuum solenoid.
Follow the black line from the solenoid, down the passenger side of the engine compartment, and it goes underneath to both sides.
I'd check the line right at the steering knuckle first - just turn the wheel all the way out, and you can see it plain as day - to me, when it breaks, that looks like the place it would happen.
If it's not an obvious vacuum line problem, it's possible for the vacuum solenoid to leak. You'd have to test it with a vacuum guage and a hand vacuum pump to see if it's the solenoid. With the solenoid off (not trying to lock the hubs), use a hand vacuum pump with a guage on it, on the supply side of the solenoid, and build a vacuuum, like 20-25 inches. BLOCK OFF the output side of the solenoid (the side going to the hubs). Energize the solenoid and see if the vacuum bleeds off. If it does, the solenoid is leaking internally.
art k.
There's a vacuum resevoir on the passenger-side wheel well, under the hood. Right next to it (follow the vacuum line - red, I think) is the solenoid to control the vacuum pulse.
There is only a 20 second pulse to lock the front hubs, and a 5 second to unlock, there is no constant vacuum applied to the hubs. You can manually lock the hubs (if they move anymore) to get you out of a situation like this.
Did the a/c come back on about 20 seconds after you first turned the **** to 4x4? If so, the vacuum leak is AFTER (or IN) the vacuum solenoid.
Follow the black line from the solenoid, down the passenger side of the engine compartment, and it goes underneath to both sides.
I'd check the line right at the steering knuckle first - just turn the wheel all the way out, and you can see it plain as day - to me, when it breaks, that looks like the place it would happen.
If it's not an obvious vacuum line problem, it's possible for the vacuum solenoid to leak. You'd have to test it with a vacuum guage and a hand vacuum pump to see if it's the solenoid. With the solenoid off (not trying to lock the hubs), use a hand vacuum pump with a guage on it, on the supply side of the solenoid, and build a vacuuum, like 20-25 inches. BLOCK OFF the output side of the solenoid (the side going to the hubs). Energize the solenoid and see if the vacuum bleeds off. If it does, the solenoid is leaking internally.
art k.
(But they won't allow me to give you anymore browny points...
)
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Big Orn
As usual, krewat, great post
(But they won't allow me to give you anymore browny points... )
(But they won't allow me to give you anymore browny points...
)Imagine having all this power, and trying to actually show off on hard-pack dirt or some other good-traction surface... without bald tires, it's almost impossible... The trick is, pulling out some other poor slob is a lot more fun with so much traction...
I'm going Upstate (NY) Labor day, hopefully I can throw aroiund some mud (clay) (with my stock-sized 265/75r16 Cooper Discoverer AT's .. tee hee)...
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by krewat
I just now locked in my Warn hubs, turned the **** to 4x4 low and tried to break the tires loose in my backyard - not...
Imagine having all this power, and trying to actually show off on hard-pack dirt or some other good-traction surface... without bald tires, it's almost impossible... The trick is, pulling out some other poor slob is a lot more fun with so much traction...
I'm going Upstate (NY) Labor day, hopefully I can throw aroiund some mud (clay) (with my stock-sized 265/75r16 Cooper Discoverer AT's .. tee hee)...
Imagine having all this power, and trying to actually show off on hard-pack dirt or some other good-traction surface... without bald tires, it's almost impossible... The trick is, pulling out some other poor slob is a lot more fun with so much traction...
I'm going Upstate (NY) Labor day, hopefully I can throw aroiund some mud (clay) (with my stock-sized 265/75r16 Cooper Discoverer AT's .. tee hee)...
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From: Southdakota
Great Ill do a little ckecking now that I have a starting point. Thank you I guess I shold have gave you the make and model.... 2002 F-250 CC 4X4 SD V-10 SB 3.73s. Ill let you know what I come up with
Take care
JT
Ill do a little ckecking now that I have a starting point. Thank you I guess I shold have gave you the make and model.... 2002 F-250 CC 4X4 SD V-10 SB 3.73s. Ill let you know what I come up withTake care
JT
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From: Western New York
Originally Posted by krewat
I'm going Upstate (NY) Labor day...
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Ronin007
Art, where in Upstate NY are you going to be?
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From: Western New York
Art - I know where you will be. Not close enough to me. I thought that if you were near by we could get together. Have a good time. Nice area there. Sorry jasontrucks76 for hijacking your thread. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming......
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Ronin007
Art - I know where you will be. Not close enough to me. I thought that if you were near by we could get together. Have a good time. Nice area there. Sorry jasontrucks76 for hijacking your thread. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming......
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From: Western New York
Originally Posted by krewat
I'd have a hard time justifying it to the wife anyway
I just got the truck back from my buddy's shop and now she hates the gap between the tires and wheel wells. I guess that means larger tires now. Boy am I bumming now.