Flywheel
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Elder User
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Flywheel
I'm running a 3 on the tree behind a 390. I'm looking for a good flywheel but wanting to make sure I get the right one. So far a 390 is hard to find so what about a 360? I know the cranks are different so would that make a big difference in the flywheel balance? Somebody give me a part number and a place to look.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
"ALL" FE flywheels are the same..................except the 428 factory wheel. The 428 cast steel wheel will have an extra "Pie" of casting on the rear to help with the balance(that is why the 428 is externally balanced).
If you can get your hands on a 429/460 wheel....they also fit, and are NEUTRAL balanced.
If you check out the listing for an aftermarket steel wheel...the listing is for 429/460/FE (except 428-unless you re-balance the wheel).
If you can get your hands on a 429/460 wheel....they also fit, and are NEUTRAL balanced.
If you check out the listing for an aftermarket steel wheel...the listing is for 429/460/FE (except 428-unless you re-balance the wheel).
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Thanks, Larry. I was going to wait until I pulled the motor to go through the tranny but I can't wait any longer. Is it just a matter of bellhousing bolts, crossmember, and a jack to drop this thing?
You said that all FE flywheels are the same, meaning it doesn't matter whether auto or manual?
You said that all FE flywheels are the same, meaning it doesn't matter whether auto or manual?
Last edited by debestuss; Aug 16, 2005 at 11:26 AM.
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Elder User
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Originally Posted by debestuss
Thanks, Larry. I was going to wait until I pulled the motor to go through the tranny but I can't wait any longer. Is it just a matter of bellhousing bolts, crossmember, and a jack to drop this thing?
You said that all FE flywheels are the same, meaning it doesn't matter whether auto or manual?
You said that all FE flywheels are the same, meaning it doesn't matter whether auto or manual?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
Ya, if you can get a clutch bolted to a auto flexplate...you're a better man than me...LOL!!!
Ya, pulling a stick tranny is not difficult. A few wrenches and a jack will get it on the ground for the most part.
Ya, pulling a stick tranny is not difficult. A few wrenches and a jack will get it on the ground for the most part.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Double check diameter of the pressure plate mounting holes. I had to replace the flywheel on my truck, discovered the replacement mounted a smaller diameter clutch (after resurfacing). Money was tight, time was short, A-Z set me up with a smaller clutch listed for a Ford van.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
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From: Ohio
Most FE's were at least 11". The factory 427 was 11 1/2", but still should have 11" pattern. You could run the 11 1/2" plate with 11" disc with no problems.
Most all the aftermarket stuff is 11"
Most all the aftermarket stuff is 11"
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Elder User
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Dropping this tranny is a PITA!! I honestly believe I should've went ahead and pulled the motor with the tranny attached. I may go ahead and pull the motor just to reattach the tranny to put it back in. Good grief this is aggravating.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Sacatomato
Originally Posted by debestuss
Dropping this tranny is a PITA!! I honestly believe I should've went ahead and pulled the motor with the tranny attached. I may go ahead and pull the motor just to reattach the tranny to put it back in. Good grief this is aggravating.
It's hard to find with a vehicle search so the best thing to do is type in "747" and run a search on the site. It should pull up "standard flywheel 747" and thats it. Cheap too if you have the core. Good luck!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Ohio
What the heck happened?? Did you forget the floor jack?? LOL!!!
Guess I've been doing it too many years...it's like taking a nap..>LMAO
Pulling the motor is wayyyyyyyyyyy too much work to fix a clutch.
Did you forget to mention yours was 4wd?? Now that would be a beach to do.
Guess I've been doing it too many years...it's like taking a nap..>LMAO
Pulling the motor is wayyyyyyyyyyy too much work to fix a clutch.
Did you forget to mention yours was 4wd?? Now that would be a beach to do.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Actually I almost prefer a 4wd rather than a 2wd. (if there is a preference to wanting to change out a tranny 
) I bought a 70 sport custom for a parts truck and pulled 360/c6 for spares, for my 75 hi-boy. 'least on my '75 I can sit down up in there and get to the bellhousing bolts easier.
That is until I turn around a hit my forehead on the frame!
BTW, anyone need sport custom parts, let me know....
) I bought a 70 sport custom for a parts truck and pulled 360/c6 for spares, for my 75 hi-boy. 'least on my '75 I can sit down up in there and get to the bellhousing bolts easier. That is until I turn around a hit my forehead on the frame!
BTW, anyone need sport custom parts, let me know....
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Elder User
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
Yeah yeah, LMAO. I got the dang thing down and, no, I didn't forget the floor jack. The exhaust pipes were holding it up so I had to twist it to get it down. Yes, I disconnected the headers and collectors. I'll have the flywheel resurfaced tommorrow and I'll begin the process in reverse tommorrow. Can't wait. I've decided to change out the U-joints while I've got everything apart. It appears that you have to ruin the old ones to get them out. Is this true?
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From: Eureka, Ca.
. I've decided to change out the U-joints while I've got everything apart. It appears that you have to ruin the old ones to get them out. Is this true?[/QUOTE]
No you just need to remove the snap rings ( if any. Some people don't put them back on) and use a socket and hammer to force the cap out of the other side. After it is most of the way out use pliers to pull it out the rest of the way useing a twisting motion while you pull Now use the socket to drive the u joint bac the other way. You repeat this until all the yokes are off the joint.
No you just need to remove the snap rings ( if any. Some people don't put them back on) and use a socket and hammer to force the cap out of the other side. After it is most of the way out use pliers to pull it out the rest of the way useing a twisting motion while you pull Now use the socket to drive the u joint bac the other way. You repeat this until all the yokes are off the joint.
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Elder User
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From: Fort Rucker, AL
No you just need to remove the snap rings ( if any. Some people don't put them back on) and use a socket and hammer to force the cap out of the other side. After it is most of the way out use pliers to pull it out the rest of the way useing a twisting motion while you pull Now use the socket to drive the u joint bac the other way. You repeat this until all the yokes are off the joint.
Posting Guru
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From: Eureka, Ca.
Now that you have one cap off use the socket on the end without a cap and hammer the other cap back through the other side and pull it off just like the first one you did. You need both caps out to remove the joint.
Don't be afraid it will come out.
To reinstall the new ones Get the cap started and put the joint in the cap so that the needles don't come out. now gently hammer it in just far enough to get the snap ring in place. Start the other side and move the joint over into the cap so the needles don't fall out and hammer in just to the point where the snap ring will go in. After you do a couple it will be real easy to do the rest.
Don't be afraid it will come out.
To reinstall the new ones Get the cap started and put the joint in the cap so that the needles don't come out. now gently hammer it in just far enough to get the snap ring in place. Start the other side and move the joint over into the cap so the needles don't fall out and hammer in just to the point where the snap ring will go in. After you do a couple it will be real easy to do the rest.