My apologies for raising this thread for what must be the ten-thousandth time, but I have spent over an hour searching this site for what to do about my rear window that is stuck down. Power is getting to the harness because I unplugged the connector at the right tail light that leads to the window wiring harness, and I have done all the stuff like pushing/leaning against the door. There is no whirring sound when I operate the key or dash switch for the window. I believe the motor is good but there is a short somewhere. It is just I can't get to anything to check switches and connections.

No cracked wires are visble with the panel and dustcover removed. I suspect the key switch is faulty but how to get that *#&^window up? I can find no info--maybe my searching skills aren't worth guano--on how to raise that window.

I guess I am going to have to try to unbolt the regulator arm at the bottom of the window and slide out the glass but lord, I don't think my fingers are small enough to fit to do that .

 

I think if you click on this link you will have way more info on exactly what your looking for than you will know what to do with.

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=2742&s=12689#content

Dont forget to thank Steve83! BTW: HE knows his stuff!

 

if you got the panel off the rear gate and its still up cause the window won't go down here's whats next in the middle of the gate behind where the panel you removed is a metal brace running top to bottom behind that brace is a wiring harness jack/plug/connector with 2 wires pull it free of the metal brace and pull the clip back[ like all ford connectors] and pull it apart take the side that goes to the motor and and the two wires are our up and down by hooking the wires to a battery12v one way you hook them up is up or down and reversing the two wires is down or up if it goes down now you can open the gate and the safety is bad or out of adjustment[ that located on the drivers side side latch on the inside if the window doesn't go down then the motor housing is most likely bad and thenyuo gotta take it out in the up position be careful of the glass cause you only get one chance to break it good luck john

 

Hold everything. Did you try shutting it hard? This same thing happened to me. I tore everything apart thinking something was faulty, when low and behold all that was wrong was that I didn't shut the tailgate hard enough and the switch wouldn't close.

 

i had the same prob, and shuttin it hard helped but then got to the point where that didnt help, i spent two hours tryin to get it to work, finally i took some WD40 and sprayed it on both contacts where the striker bolts hit, let it sit for about 5 mins and closed it and havent had a prob since

 

Thanks for that info, this is all the stuff I've been looking for also. Way too cool, thanks again!

 

I had this problem for 2 years and finally foundit. It was the black wire that goes to the tail gate inthe harness you can see on the left whenyou open the door.It was all wrapped in electrical tape type covering. There;s lots of wires there. The black one(ground ) was open. I joined it together and it worked and havnt had a problem since..
Also make sure the locking mechanisism are greased enough. Before i had to slam it really hard to get it to work, but eventually stuck grease in the mechanism and never had that problem again. apparently the gate can look closed too but the mechanism doesnt really lock so it thinks its still open.
good luck.

 

The problem with the interlock switch on the driver's side tailgate latch is that over time the latch and striker bolt wear and BOTH halves of the latch cam in the latch arent actually clicking shut. If you have ever dropped the tailgate to work on the window mechanism and close the latch to bypass the interlock switch you know all too well that unless BOTH cams in the latch are fully closed the window isn't going anywhere.

One of the fixes has already been mentioned. Lubrication of the latch! Be careful though. Too much grease will gum up the mechanism and actually make the problem worse. I have quit using grease on all of the latch and door components. Powdered graphite suspended in sewing machine oil has worked best for me for a long time. (Its actually an old trick used in high temperature situations where petroleum lubricants will eventually burn off).

The other component to look at is the striker bolt itself. Over time, the latch wears and so does the striker bolt. Eventually the tolerance gap gets big enough that one cam in the latch won't fully engage. Tiny adjustments to the striker bolt position can help alleviate the problem. Moving it TOWARDS the direction the latch comes in from will force the striker deeper into the latch when the tailgate is closed hence negating the need to SLAM the gate or push on it after its been closed. This way the latch cams fully engage.