Can I remove the Air pump and not have a problem? Most of the stuff from the Air fulter is disconnected. I am putting on a chrome air filter and breather caps.

Also, the fuel vapor cannisters are disconnected except fromt the gas tank, where can I run the gas tank vents and not have a problem?

Thank you

 

You need a PCV system. I answered your other post.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID91/12944.html

You probably can run 1 chrome cap, and then put the pcv valve in the other. Make sure the covers have baffles.

You can remove the air pump system if you don't need it for inspection.

I would not remove the EGR unless you are installing an after-market carburetor. With the stock carb, and no egr, the motor will ping on light throttle.

I also would caution you about the chrome air cleaner. It is fine for the summer, but if you will use the truck on cold rainy winter days, it may give you trouble. The original aircleaner should have a pipe going down from the snorkel to the exhaust manifold. This picks up warm air and keeps the carb from freezing up during the winter. You can go ahead and use the chrome one, but I would not throw away the original because you will be putting it back on when it starts snowing.

Bottom line is, one thing affects another, and if the factory could have left it off and saved some money, they would have. Everything has a purpose, so you have to be careful when tossing the original equipment.

 

Thanks for the reply.

Would it be possible to drill a hole in new air filter, to connect the tube from the exhaust manifold in?

 

The problem is that your carb will ice up and act like it is flooding. Mine does it everytime it gets cold out. I put the stock air cleaner back on in the wintertime and the problem goes away. You need the heated air from the tube running from the manifold. If you have an open element air cleaner, it will suck too much cold air even if you put the hose in the chrome air cleaner. So, keep it around, you'll probably need it.
Jimmy

 

I disagree about the use of chrome air cleaners.

I used an Erson chrome 14" air cleaner for 6 years before adapting my old air cleaner to a fresh-air/ ram-air set-up.

Absolutely no problems with the carb settings.

By the way I live in Colorado.

Josh

 

Both of my 77's do it here in Ky. It's usually kinda humid here and that is probably why.

 

Those Chrome (POS) air cleaners do everything wrong all year long! They are not suitable for anything but a "Trailer Queen" or some Cheby hotrod in a parade. In the summer and a some of the winter they pull in hot underhood air into the engine which causes a loss of power, efficiency, and a corresponding loss of fuel economy. In the winter or fall in humid climates they contribute to carb icing and again a loss of power and efficiency. Ford put that warm air intake on the airbox for this very reason. If the engines could have operated efficiently without it Ford would not have put them on. Not that they can't be improved, -but that is another story...

 

Then how do you explain the Ford Galaxies, Fairlanes and others that could be have been had from the FACTORY with chrome open element air cleaners?

Either way you are still pulling underhood air no matter what air cleaner you are using. And if you run ducts to an outside source the air would be even COLDER in the winter.

I would say that installing an open element air cleaner is leaning out you mixture, which causes your winter engine woes. And to cure that you put the restrictive stock cleaner back on.

Just something to think about.

Josh

 

I have a 1982 F-150 with a 351w engine.My metal hose running from the manifold to the air filter assy. came off bout 5 yrs. ago. I have driven in temps well below zero and have never had any noticeable perforfance probs.


If your high beem switch is not a button on the floor you ain't got #####.

 

I have noticed too, that some of the older cars didn't have the warm system. I wondered about this and investigated some of the differences. One thing I noticed is the heat riser system is different. Alot of the newer engines don't have the valve in the the exhaust manifold, which causes more of the exhaust to be forced under the carb to warm it up. I also noticed some of the older vehicles intake manifolds where set up a little different, with direct exhaust passages under the carb, not just through the floor of the manifold. Most of the newer style carbed engines with the snorkel system have the aluminum spacer under the carb, isolating it more from the manifold.

As far as the factory chrome aircleaners, these were mostly for high performance applications, where cold weather performance wasn't a high priority.

What we are talking about here is a car or truck that is easy for anyone to drive. This means whatever the weather, you pump the gas, turn the key, and drive on. We all know some of the rituals some vehicles require to get them going. I am sure there are exceptions, but most trucks with a chrome air cleaner will require a little nursing after they are started, and a little patience for 10-15 minutes till they get warmed up.

I have also noticed that humidity does play a big part in the freezing conditon. The vehicles I have had with this problem, didn't have it when it was about 25 degrees or colder. This is usually when the air was very dry, and they did run fine. When it was a little warmer and snowing or raining, the gas pedal will actually stick because so much frost has built up in the throat of the carb.

 

From all the advice I am going to keep the stock air cleaner. I was going mostly for looks and get rid if that ugly duct work.

I am going to have to find a manifold hose somewhere, I looked last night and everything is disconnected from the aircleaner. I will have to find the hose that connects the cleaner to the exhaust.

Any advice on where to vent gas tanks? Emmisions cannistors are disconnected. From engine but still conncted from gas tanks. I was looking to get rid of them or would I be better off reconnecting?

My rear tank is missing so do I want one with the vent tube towards front or rear/ with emission or without emmison hole?

Is it possible to convert an Air pump to a compressor to put out 150 psi?

 

You need to vent the tanks. Your truck has a sealed gas cap, so the air has to come in from somewhere when the fuel pump draws the fuel out. So I would get the tank with the emission hole unless you buy a vented cap. You can disconnect the line from the charcoal canister, but you need to leave it open, so the tank will vent, and it may give you a gas smell in the engine compartment when you do this.

 

But hey, when you remove the air pump you're probably going to want to take all those big ugly hoses off and plug the ducts in the heads otherwise you're talkin' about sludgy doo build-up when the exhaust backs up into those hoses--I hate air pumps, hell , the engine is an air pump!!