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Dremel vs. Rotozip for drywall?

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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 04:06 AM
  #1  
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afinepoint
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Laughing Gas
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Dremel vs. Rotozip for drywall?

I have a Dremel tool with the attachment for cutting gypsum and such. Anyone use the Rotozip tool which seems designed for just such cutting? Someone use both? Preferences?

The Home Depot salesman states that the cordless Rotozip will last 3-4 hours cutting drywall. How true is that?

AFP
 
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 07:26 AM
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For drywall the rotozip is the tool. I used the corded version and it has much more power it seemed and is designed to keep the dust off the motor. I think the dust and dirt along with the pressure of pushing a dremel through drywall would make short work of it fast. If you are doing a lot then I would buy/rent the rotozip. I cant comment on cordless runtime.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 04:48 AM
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Laughing Gas
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Thanks,

It appears we're the only ones to have used these tools on drywall.

AFP
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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I have used them both, but the information you did not give is 'What kind of cutting are you doing?’ Straight cuts are always best done by scoring and then snapping the board. Cutting out holes or those custom curves then I would go with the Rotozip till something better comes along.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:15 PM
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Good point I should have been more specific. I normally score and snap loose material. I meant cutting into walls or ceilings.

I have found the dremel is a bear to keep on line, especially with one hand, the "bit" seems to dull quickly and (changing) the bit attachment is awkward.

AFP
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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I have the corded Rotozip and it works great on drywall and ceiling tiles of all types. It does throw dust around a lot. It is easy to change bits and now there are several attachments to make it even more usefull.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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I use a sheet rock saw, powered by a little elbow grease.

For the amount of rocking I do, I can't justify buying one.

But I still wouldn't mind having a Roto-Zip for other projects.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 08:01 PM
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Greg 79 f150
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I have both and the Roto cord unit is the one I bought to install the 7/16 " OSB in my workshop. It did not have what it took to cut the OSB electrical box openings, I ended up jigsawing them. I found it did work well with drywall on electrical box cutouts, but only sped up the process if you tack the drywall board over the oulet boxes and zipped them out around the boxes ( that is the way the pros do it) With me not being a pro, I ended up having to mud/tape to many box openings because I zipped where I should have zapped. I ended up with my old trusty rusty straight drywall saw as my box opening opener, and wish I could find a home for this Roto I will not ever use again. . .
 
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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I have used the craftman version of rotozip, uses same bits, it loud, dusty, but fast, able to go around electrical boxes and windows, and doors. If your buying just for one time just buy a drywall handsaw
 
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Old Aug 11, 2005 | 06:47 PM
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We have a RotoZip in the shop at work. When I wanted one for work at my rentals, I bought the Dremel version, because it was a bit cheaper. It has worked OK, for sheetrock and for quite a bit of FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic), which is basically thin fiberglass paneling used in bathrooms. I've burned up a few bits, but the machine still works fine.

I would not even compare a "Dremel tool" to a RotoZip. I remember when Dremel first came out with their "Mototool," and it has its uses. But it's not a RotoZip.

On the other hand, the Dremel version of the RotoZip tool is competitive and should work OK.

These are funny tools, more than a Dremel tool, but definitely not a router. They do have their uses. Buy plenty of bits. The ones I used on the FRP (not the same as sheetrock bits) did get dull. But FRP is thin, so I'd change depth setting a couple of times until I had dulled most of the bit.

And yes, I know FRP is normally used on instutional restrooms, but my rentals do not look like gas station bathrooms. I just wanted something durable. Nothing is "renter proof," but FRP bonded to 5/8" green board is "renter resistant."
 
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 02:17 PM
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Definitely buy the RotoZip model. I have used that extensively. I also had a Craftsman version that died a quick death and it wasn't even used to the extent my Rotozip was. I also have the Dremel version as well and it IMO does not compare to the RotoZip.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 02:30 PM
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One place the rotozip shines is for remodeling. You can set the depth for 1/2 or 5/8 inch, make your cut, and not worry about wires, pipes or joists. Also, if you've ever cut durarock with a knife you know what i'm gonna say next. This tool is worth it's weight in gold sometimes!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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afinepoint
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Thanks,

The tool will see occassional drywall use. Various thicknesses, green board etc. My next job will involve cutting out a repaired area near a vent pipe and wiring. I normally use a saw but there are times when mess outweighs risk.

I was hoping to go the cordless route but don't want a tool that struggles.

AFP
 

Last edited by afinepoint; Aug 14, 2005 at 09:19 PM.
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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I have a cordless RotoZip, probably five years old. Works great in sheetrock, don't know how many cuts you can make on a charge, but enough that you can rotate batteries with minimal down time. I think it has as much power as the corded model and no cords to worry about (or getting power to the room you're working in). Mine has a grinder attachment, it works OK, but that really sucks the battery in a hurry. Can't grind much on a charge. Also, cutting OSB or plywood is out, unless you have an endless supply of bits.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2005 | 10:22 AM
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afinepoint
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Laughing Gas
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Thanks beagdog,

I may p/u one from Lowes and try it out. If it works it can join my tool collection, If not it can rejoin theirs.

AFP
 
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