I put a new crane truck power camshaft in my truck and after i installed it, it was gut less so i called crane and they told me i had too big of a cam for the computer controlled 5.0L and they gave me a different part number. But i was wondering if there was a way to save a ton of work by possibly getting a chip burned for the computer from diablo sport or getting bigger injectors. any suggestions?

 

You didn't give any information about your vehicle so I'm going to assume its a speed density 5.0 in an F-150? The problem is manifold vacuum and that reading is really screwed up by a radical cam. It can be compensated for, somewhat, with a custom tune (the bigger injectors won't do it, because the a/f ratio will get messed up if the computer isn't retuned for them). Note, however, that a tune won't completely overcome the low-end problems of a radical grind with speed density unless you get it put on a dyno and have some custom tweaks made there on the spot.

 

sorry i failed to mention i do have the mass air conversion its just a 302 cam that i think is suppose to be on a carb truck not EFI. crane told me the computer doesnt allow for big cams but i was thinking i could make it work if i had the computer tuned to the new cam. diablo offers an chip burn thing on their website so maybe i should just give them a call and see what they think.

 

if there are any dyno/tuning shops in your area, they may be another option. you may want to talk to a custom tuners to see if they can make your engine behave with the cam you have, before you go off and spend money on something which may or may not work. they may also be able to add an aftermarket chip and fine tune it on their dyno for what you would pay for the diablo chip/programmer. cheers, garsten.

 

what are your cam specs?

 

Its going to have to be an awfully radical grind not to work with mass air.

 

Adv. Dur.: 260°/272°
Dur. @ .050'': 204°/216°
Lift: .456''/.484''
Lobe Sep.: 112°

 

OK, I checked out your set-up, and from what I can tell, that cam puts you into the "might want to upgrade" category, i.e. better intake, heads, headers, exhaust (cat mods) etc. Even gears if you have an automatic, with larger tires and 3:55's or less. (A five-speed will give you some room though.) While the limits of that cam are not so radical, the spacing seems to me to be needing more air, much more. Of course, this is just my opinion. I just read, and have spent more money on my truck than I should!!
At least you have the mass air, which is better than SD, but it's still a computer controlled engine, with cam limits. I for one lean towards Comp Cams, and they list several computer compatible cams in the Xtreme Energy series, and Magnum series.

I'm an old school SD guy, running a very highly modified 306, with a Comp Cams 35-310-8:
Adv. Dur.: 270°/276°
Dur. @ .050'': 215°/220°
Lift: .533''/.544''
Lobe Sep.: 114°
This is not to brag on my cam, but to illustrate that you can make your cam work, but you may have to play catch up with your overall engine breathing. I do have a chip, which basically advances the initial timing. Perhaps you could start with that first, as stated above, and work backwards to minimize your costs...
What does that cam sound like at idle? Mine is noticeably lumpy.

 

mine isn't very lopey and i have noticed a decrease in mileage when its suppose improve a little. i do have open exhaust and a cone filter to try and let in alittle more air but thats about it. i may just end up getting a new cam that i don't have to deal with this. something with good low end but doesn't need any thing done to the computer or top end of the motor. i would like to do an intake and heads but money is quite sparring for me. i have to do my oil pan gasket so i figured it'd be easier to pull the motor and do the cam at the same time. i help my buddy do his oil pan and it sucked laying under there all day.

 

I just took out an Xtreme Energy XE264HR "RV" type camshaft, which has less than 1500 miles on it. This cam was installed by Engine Factory with a motor I ordered, and was a good cam. The only reason I changed it was that (for a host of reasons), I went to yet another engine build, and figured while I had the motor out, what the heck.....here's the specs:
Hydraulic roller
Adv. Dur.: 264°/270°
Dur. @ .050'': 212°/218°
Lift: .512''/.512''
Lobe Sep.: 114°
rated @ 1500 - 5500 rpm's

Again, am not trying to sway you one way or the other. Just showing what works from first hand experience. This cam is pretty mild, considered a step up from stock, runs good with mild modifications, and stock computer compatible. But, you will notice a difference...
One other thing too, whatever cam you decide on you may want to replace your springs, lifters, rockers etc. Especially if you have a lot of miles on your truck. Most cam suppliers highly suggest replacing/matching up the cam to the valve train to avoid damaging your shiny new cam, and getting the most performance out of it. Follow the run-in directions to the tee-(if not already run in)
Loads of fun!

 

I'm mainly looking for really good low end power. I just want off the line and tire smoking power. Is that a good cam for that? I did replace the lifters and pushrods when i did mine. I should do rockers because the factory pedistal rockers still have a slight tick and i don't think their adjustable. But my truck only has 75000 miles. So it's not that old. Do you have any suggestions on a set of rockers? Would you be interested in sell the cam? If so what are you asking? Or do you think it would be easier to start brand new.

 

(IMO) With your budget, the most bang for your buck would be to consider changing your gearing. 4:10's would give your truck more get up and go for sure. That XE cam is designed to "ramp up" quicker, but to get what your wanting out of that engine would cost more than just swapping gears. Of course, both mods together are even better....Try going to a site like comp cams' and reading up in their catalog. A lot of useful info there. Lots of 5.0 cams, and/or truck cams too. Most cams like at least a 1.6:1 ratio rocker (roller), which you may already have..

 

Your lobe separation is too small for the lack of compression that you engine has you need at least a 114 ls and if you do get a diffrent cam go with a little less duration @.50 this will give you more torqe remember it is not a race car if you do change the rockers all you need is a set of roller tiped rockers. just stay with the factory 1.5 ratio rockers this will keep the geometry in the valveterrain correct good luck.

 

Factory rockers are 1.6 ratio

 

That is what I was thinking but I have been playing with a chevy lately thanks for pointing that out CJ.