how much shall i do to get the oilpan of in the bottem of my 72 f250 whit 390" engien and what shall i look after

 

Not too sure what you are asking here, but if you want to remove your oil pan, you would need to unbolt the pan and then reach inside to remove the oil pump and pick up tube. When you do this however, the oil pump drive shaft will also drop out of the distributor, so take care when reinstalling everything. Pull the whole deal out from under the truck at one time.

--Mike

 

is there enogh space to do it whit out lift the engien

 

No the engine has to be lifted by a hoist connected to the top.

make sure you unhook your throttle linkage and stuff like that.


-Brandon-

 

Use a jack under the front balancer and jack it up. Use some wood to support the motor so you can remove the jack and have room to work. The oil pan will come out with some effort. Dropping the oil pump/pickup is pretty mandatory...and the hard part is getting it all back together when putting pan back on.

Not impossible, but can be difficult.

 

Don't forget about your fan shroud, the fan will possibly break it when it is lifted up...

 

I was able to get mine off of my 67 by unbolting the transmission crossmember bolt and then removing the pan bolts. Then I lifted up on the tranny tail just a bit and it slid right out.

 

Gambianer:
You can do this with the engine in the truck.
Remove the engine mount nuts from the rubber engine mounts, where they bolt into the "perches" or engine supports - not from the block.
Remove the accelerator linkage; it will get bent in the later steps if you do not remove it.
Remove the starter.
You may be able to avoid removing the transmission linkage, fuel line, radiator fan shroud and radiator hoses; keep an eye on them to make sure you don't tear something out of place.
Jack up the engine just enough to put a piece of wood under the rubber engine mounts. Here in the U.S of A, I would tell you to use a 2x4 about 12 inches long. Use anything close enough.
Remove the oil pan and rest it on the cross member.
Remove the 2 oil pump bolts and drop the oil pump and oil pump drive shaft into the pan.
Slide the pan out.
Installation is the reverse.
I recommend you use sealant on the oil pan gasket to affix it to the oil pan the night before. Make sure all the holes are clear. This will keep th egaket in place as you maneuver the pan around.
Put the oil pump in the pan, and put the pan onto the crossmember.
When you install the oil pump, be sure the oil pump drive shaft is seated in the distributor.
Push up on the oil pump, to ensure the oil pump driveshaft is properly seated. Make sure the oil pump is flush with the block, and then hand tighten one of the bolts. Do NOT use the bolts to push the oil pump onto the block, do it by hand and use the one bolt to hold it in place as you put the other one in place. This is important to ensure the oil pump seats properly.
Re-install the pan and everything else.

I recommend you fill the oil filter 1/2 way with oil when you install it. I also recommend you remove the spark plugs, and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. This will prove if the oil pump is working properly.

Good luck!

 

On my 1971 F-100 4x4 with a 390 (car engine - rear sump) and NP435 I was able to remove and replace the engine oil pan without jacking up the engine or anything else. Maybe 2x4s are more difficult?

 

my 72 has front sump

 

The 2wd has a crossmenber under the pan and the 4wd does not.

 

Try pan removal with a FT pan and windage tray in a 2x4, NO CAN DO, must pull motor.
.....=o&o>.....

 

i pulled the complete engine out and put it on a stand, then it was easy

 

I just bought a '72 short bed, it's got 60,000 original miles and has oil leaks. I'm yanking the motor to do the pan and while I'm at it, I'm putting in the new two-piece rubber rear main seal. I figure as long as it's out, I'm going to get a Fel-Pro complete engine gasket set and reseal the intake, timing cover (and seal) and toss in a new chain while I'm at it. I need to make this thing dependable while I got my '63 unibody apart. If you're going to pull the motor it's easy to reseal the whole thing. You can even put some fresh paint on the 'ol mill.
(I'm putting in a Fatman IFS and a 521" stroker in my unibody).

 

thats what i run and it can be difficult but is doable i have done it a few times. but i also don't run a windage tray.