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I replaced my lifters today,and I have it part way together, and am having a problem on adjusting the nut on the rocker arms, is there a certain adjustment? where can I find it or does anyone know it would really help me.
Also thanks everyone who has been helping me with all the problems and questions I have.
Im pretty sure thats a little to much, I was out tighting it up and before it got to 20 it started to push the valve down. Maybe I need to mention its a 1976 300. I am almost certain cause I kinda remember where the nut was on it but now with it being 20ftlbs its way past it.
Does it use a posi stop nut? I am not sure when ford went to the posi stop nut, they look like adjustable/ set gap but you torque'em. I amthinking they were all either posi stop nuts on press in studs or bolt down pedastel mount, both are "non adjustable", each are torqued down.
Just to be sure, your rotating the engine until the valve closes before you adjust, correct? I know, silly question, just trying to get that doubt out of the way.
Your using new nuts, correct?
If they were adjustable, you'd be sure the valve is fully closed, then adjust that rocker, spining the pushrod with your fingers, when it no longer spins freely, go another 1/4-1/2 turn and it should be good.
But I am fairly certain, they were torqued down only from the factory.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Aug 7, 2005 at 03:07 PM.
Hydraulic lifters are not adjustable, (they are self adjusting), But the rocker arms should be tourqued.
If the valve is going down when you tighten the rocker arm then that cylinder is most likely not at top dead center. You have to bring each cylinder to top dead center. As you rotate the engine, with the side cover off. You can watch the lifters go up and down. When both lifters are all the way down for that cylinder you can then tourque the rocker arm.
So once again tourquing the rocker arm nut does not adjust the lifter. the rocker arm pedestal has to be firmly bolted to the block, and thats all that tourquing the rocker arm nut does.
If this problem is still occurring with the each cylinder at top dead center, then you have machine shop issues, or the wrong pushrods, or rocker arms.
I talked to one of my mechanic friends and he came over to help, we started the truck up and he adjusted them with it running, everything sounds good now.
It does still have a little noise, he said the rocker arms need replaced. Would you recommend using roller rockers? Where can I get roller rockers?
I talked to one of my mechanic friends and he came over to help, we started the truck up and he adjusted them with it running, everything sounds good now.
It does still have a little noise, he said the rocker arms need replaced. Would you recommend using roller rockers? Where can I get roller rockers?
Did you use new posi lock nuts? Thats an old method of rocker adjustment and its not the right method, don't be suprised if you have valvetrain problems sooner than expected. Did the truck make noise before?
i just had some headwork done. when i was putting the rockers on, the piston was at TDC, i snuged the nut down till i couldn't rock the rocker side to side. then i tightened the nut a 1/2 turn. i think i used posi locks, but the guy at the engine shop called them polly locks. they have the little allen key screw into the nut.
i just had some headwork done. when i was putting the rockers on, the piston was at TDC, i snuged the nut down till i couldn't rock the rocker side to side. then i tightened the nut a 1/2 turn. i think i used posi locks, but the guy at the engine shop called them polly locks. they have the little allen key screw into the nut.
I believe the ones rmalottwtes30 are using are stock...just torquem...why I belive they should be replaced.
I used the adjusting nuts (with the allen screw) on a set of 70 351w heads using stock studs.
Last edited by Motorhead351; Aug 7, 2005 at 07:32 PM.
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