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Yeah, this thing rocks. It bent the snot out of the filter on my first oil change, though.
The location of the filter was much worse on my 2000 F-150 with a 4.6 Romeo. . . The wheel had to be truned to the left and you could only move a strap wrench like an inch at a time.
I've gone through so many of the "perfect oil filter wrench" B/S that I'd given up. I liked this one so well, I bought my dad one. It works in tight areas and seems to fight every filter I put it on.
I've been using a speciality wrench for the last few years, bought it for a volvo. Looks like a large set of channel lock pliers but with real teeth on it. Give her a good squeeze and slow but firm pressure, it should break any filter loose.
That is, unless if was put on at the factory. Even my wife's honda was a beeeeeeeeeach to get off the first time. I don't think they lube it with oil, as someone said earlier, and the thing just cooks onto there. I'll bring it in for the first one i think.
I have the 4.6L and can't believe the oil filter setup. Not only is the filter difficult to access, but there's no room to turn your wratchet, without a long extension.
The tool from Sears is not that great either, but I did finally get my first filter off.
I know this topic has been beat to death several times but for you newcomers, the 5.4l, FL-820s oil filter is easy enough to remove with the right filter wrench. I don't have any recent experience with the 4.6l filter but it's probably similar. I purchased a metal end cap wrench from Auto Zone that is specifically designed to fit the FL-820s filter (and is labled as such). Make sure it fits before you take it home because other cheaper generic plastic or universal-type wrenches probably won't fit properly since the splines on the 820s are slightly different from those on Fram other other competing filters. Mine works with a 3/8" ratchet or driver and an extension. Cost me about $5 if I remember correctly. Makes changing the filter easy and fast.
I have a '04 Scab 4.6L, and I never really had a problem with actually turning the filter, to get it off. The only problem I had was that there was this weird plastic tray right under the filter, so it was always a pain to get off. The tray seems to just direct oil that spills from when one takes the filter off.
I just took the tray off, and it's simple to get at from underneath, with just an ordinary filter wrench.
I must agree that Ford has a poor location for the oil filter. What happen to the old days when the filter was located straight up and down and any old filter wrench would work. I tried that tool from sears, really a piece of junk in my mind, then At Auto Zone the socket wrench they had for the 820 filter did not fit. It took about an hour trying each tool. The filter was really stuck on there. Factory must not read the directions for changing your oil to put some oil on the gasket.
Purchased at Auto Zone for about $5. Black annodized metal. OEM Industrial brand Oil Filter "D" Cap Wrench. Part No. 25403. Per label, fits Motorcraft FL1A, FL 300, and FL820. I've used it about 10 times, it fits the FL-820s perfectly, and makes this otherwise unpleasant job pretty easy. As I previously described, it won't fit other brands of filter because the splines are different.
I just took the tray off, and it's simple to get at from underneath, with just an ordinary filter wrench.
Were there any "tricks" to removing the tray? I don't believe the tray adds much value either, as most of the oil from the filter didn't drain via the tray.