Can't find Ignition control module E150
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Can't find Ignition control module E150
I have a '92 E150 conversion van. 5.0/302. It was running rough for a couple of weeks and then died. I have no spark coming from the coil, but I have 12V going into the coil. The parts house said it sounded like an ignition control modual that is supposed to be mounted
UNDER HOOD, CENTER, UPPER ENGINE AREA, END OF INTAKE
MANIFOLD, MOUNTED ON PASSENGER SIDE FRONT OF
DISTRIBUTOR
</PRE>I saw what it looks like at the parts house but I can't find it on the van. Does anybody have anymore clues or some place (URL) for a picture of location?
It's about 4.5 inches long and 1.25 inches wide
UNDER HOOD, CENTER, UPPER ENGINE AREA, END OF INTAKE
MANIFOLD, MOUNTED ON PASSENGER SIDE FRONT OF
DISTRIBUTOR
</PRE>I saw what it looks like at the parts house but I can't find it on the van. Does anybody have anymore clues or some place (URL) for a picture of location?
It's about 4.5 inches long and 1.25 inches wide
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From: Virginia
It's in the picture in this link.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80174ffe.gif
The round thing in the background is the distributor with the cap off the top. The white thing in the picture is what you are looking for and is mounted on the side of the distributor.
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d80174ffe.gif
The round thing in the background is the distributor with the cap off the top. The white thing in the picture is what you are looking for and is mounted on the side of the distributor.
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Mine does not look like that.There is a flat space on the bottom side of the distributor that looks like it was made for that part, minus the bolt holes? But I don't see the module anywhere! Is it possible that it doesen't have one?
Here are 2 pics of what mine looks like:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...2/P1011163.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...2/P1011162.JPG
Here are 2 pics of what mine looks like:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...2/P1011163.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...2/P1011162.JPG
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From: Virginia
They do have remotely mounted TFI modules, but they listed them only for 7.5 liter vans. Maybe yours has one of these setups.
The only thing I can recommend is follow those wires leaving the distributor you have, very closely. Somewhere along the way those distributor wires are going to end up at a module.
The only thing I can recommend is follow those wires leaving the distributor you have, very closely. Somewhere along the way those distributor wires are going to end up at a module.
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Brain Box?
Originally Posted by Holmesuser01
Look in the vicinity of the brake master cylinder. I have seen them installed over there. 5-6" square box with wires coming out of it. Has a ribbed surface on it.
Good luck
Good luck
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/973042/P1011170.JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/973042/P1011168.JPG
Will the other module interchange with this one? If not what is this one called at the parts house?
Thanks to all who have replyed!
Last edited by Sniffels323; Aug 5, 2005 at 07:23 PM. Reason: to get additional options?
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From: Virginia
Hey, I learn something new everyday. That's pretty neat how they remotely mounted the same module they use on the distributor. At least it looks the same to me as the one you pictured in a previous post.
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Thanks for all this help! If and when I ever find a job I plan on joining the FTE Club!
Now that I've located it is there any to test it with a multimeter? Auto Zone said they would test it, but I'm Walking!
Now that I've located it is there any to test it with a multimeter? Auto Zone said they would test it, but I'm Walking!
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I don't know of any test you can do. You will have to hitch a ride to Autozone. They have tested some for me before.
When I first started digging into this mess I checked the plug coming to the coil and found 12v then I stuck a screwdriver from the coil wire to close to ground and had no spark. Did I mis-judge in thinking I had an electrical problem? Is there any other way to check for fire?
Test per Auto Zone,
Primary test: Facing coil, ( | | | | ) check from outer most pins and it should be 0.3 to 1.0 ohms
Secondary test: Check from coil wire pin to ground and reading should be 6.0k to 13.0k ohms
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From: Virginia
You can also take one of the sparkplug wires off, stick a screwdriver up in the wire, and while holding the plastic handle, put the metal shank close to something metal on the engine and then get someone to crank the engine.
You are still pretty much in the beginning stages of troubleshooting, so you still need to double check to see if it's a spark or fuel problem.
Another check you can make is to put your meter on a DC scale, and put the negative lead on the engine block, and the positive lead on the NEGATIVE of the coil. When you crank the engine, you should see the voltage jump up and down. This is what the module does. Everytime the module grounds the coil, and the releases it, you should get a spark.
You are still pretty much in the beginning stages of troubleshooting, so you still need to double check to see if it's a spark or fuel problem.
Another check you can make is to put your meter on a DC scale, and put the negative lead on the engine block, and the positive lead on the NEGATIVE of the coil. When you crank the engine, you should see the voltage jump up and down. This is what the module does. Everytime the module grounds the coil, and the releases it, you should get a spark.
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Still no spark!
I had the coil tested and it was wthin specs. The counter person told me that the tester that was used to test the tfi
module wasn't always accurate! Sooooo like a dumba** I bought a new Ing. Control Module, came home and installed it.
Still no spark! There was an instruction sheet that came with the module that says "If vehicle fails to start, check pick
up coil and power supply to module."
How do I check those? And would the pickup coil stop spark?
Also, there is what appears to be a condenser mounted right next
to the coil and wired in to the + side of coil. Could this be the problem
and can I check it?
module wasn't always accurate! Sooooo like a dumba** I bought a new Ing. Control Module, came home and installed it.
Still no spark! There was an instruction sheet that came with the module that says "If vehicle fails to start, check pick
up coil and power supply to module."
How do I check those? And would the pickup coil stop spark?
Also, there is what appears to be a condenser mounted right next
to the coil and wired in to the + side of coil. Could this be the problem
and can I check it?
Last edited by Sniffels323; Aug 12, 2005 at 02:22 PM. Reason: forgot another question
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From: Virginia
Here's some more troubleshooting info on the TFI system.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a185f.jsp
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a185f.jsp
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Here's some more troubleshooting info on the TFI system.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/18/5f/0900823d800a185f.jsp
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/18/5f/0900823d800a185f.jsp
That was a very good link! But, alas I'm still confused about how to check the resistance of the stator? The AutoZone page said:
Stator Assembly and Module
- Remove the distributor from the engine.
- Remove the TFI module from the distributor.
- Inspect the distributor terminals, ground screw, and stator wiring for damage. Repair as necessary.
- Measure the resistance of the stator assembly, using an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reading is 800-975 ohms, the stator is okay, but the TFI module must be replaced. If the ohmmeter reading is less than 800 ohms or more than 975 ohms; the TFI module is okay, but the stator module must be replaced.
- Repair as necessary and install the TFI module and the distributor.
Thanks again for all your help!
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From: Virginia
If you can get to it, measure the resistance at the remote station where the module plugs in. This will test the wiring and the stator all the way from the dist to the remote TFI mount. Unplug the module and touch the pins with the meter.