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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 07:43 AM
  #1  
bshackelford711's Avatar
bshackelford711
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I got my motor

Well i posted a while back about which is better a 302 or 351W and got some good info back.


Well i decided to go with the 351W. What really pushed over on that motor vs the 302 was it was FREE and i can really afford about three or for of those


Now what is a good starting point. Lets start with casting numbers. Where can i find the numbers on the block?


I want to rebuild this motor. What is the standard bore of a 351W. How far out can it go?

I am figuring 30 over pistons and rings, and 10 under on the crank and rods.

I want to drop solid lifters in the motor with a really lopey high lift cam. What is the maximum lift i can put in a 351W.


I plan on putting ARP rod bolts in that thing. Anything i rebuild gets ARP rod bolts.


I think that should get me started for a while.



Thanks
-Brandon-
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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the block stamp should be around were the starter bolts up.

30-40 is a good bore. you can go as much as 60 but not advisable.

i suggest hydrolic lifters and lopey cams suck and actual rob power. what is this motor going into. this will help us help you.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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a 1956 F-100 hot Rod.

The I am not really looking in to s street machine and lot of HP ant TRQ. I just need the sound.

The only time the truck will be run is from the trailer out to where it will be sitting in the show



-Brandon-
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 09:53 AM
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The only time the truck will be run is from the trailer out to where it will be sitting in the show Quote,

Thats to bad. part of a show truck is function as well as looks correct? why even have a motor that runs if it looks pretty in the truck thats all that matters right? hehe.
sorry just given ya crap. well if you want a lopey cam call the pros . compcam,crane etc... also think about true duals with longtube headers and flowmasters dumped under the bed. all 3" of course , this will give you the sound your after. if it would even idle enough to get off the trailer to its parking spot
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:12 AM
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If it's not going to be driven, why even bother to rebuild it with all those expensive parts? Just stab some cheap-o hyd flat tappet cam in there and give it a krylon rebuild. That would reach your goal.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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shack, can i ask why you want to use solid lifters? i could be wrong, but solid lifters may require an adjustable valve train and may require more frequent adjustments. i associate solid lifters with race engines but maybe i am being narrow minded or maybe you are building a race engine.

max lift depends on pistons...i'm sure srp, je, etc. could sell you pistons with enough clearance for 0.6" lift. high lift lopey cams have their place and it's at the race track. cam selection is tough, there are hundreds of choices available.

unless you have all the tools, first stop should be the machine shop to get info on block and crank condition. they will let you know what should be done to get the block and crank to reusable condition. standard bore is 4.0", stroke 3.5" for all ford 351 engines.

burns is right, what is the motor going into and how will you be using it? cheers, garsten
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by bshackelford711
a 1956 F-100 hot Rod.

-Brandon-

here is what its going into
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Kemicalburns
here is what its going into
"Hot Rods" get driven, that should read, show truck, if its only going to move a couple feet at a time. Definitely no need for a solid cam, adj studs, arp anything, etc etc.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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i totally agrea
 
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Old Aug 4, 2005 | 11:33 AM
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these are the things that make america such a great place.

i think shack should do what ever he wants with his truck...it makes little or no sense to the majority of us and it's not how i would spend my money, but who am i to decide how shack drops his coin! cheers, garsten
 
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