Just bought a 1995 ford 2WD f150 v6, 5 speed. other than that, don't know much except it needs a leaf spring bracket and maybe ball joints. the tires are worn on the outsides of both front tires (rotated? or indicative of a problem?).

My VIN# is: 1FTDF15Y1SNB58843

Here's what I could figure out from googleing and ford vin decoders I could find.

1 = US
F = ford
T = truck - complete assembly
D = 5-6K GVWR (is this right?)
F15 = Not sure. is this just F150? No other clues about the truck?
Y = V6. is this 4.9L fuel injected?
1 = check digit
S = 1995
N = built in Norfolk, VA plant
B58843 = assembly number

So, how do I know if it is special, XL, XLT, eddie Bauer? And the flarestyle? I checked the vin on Nada and all they had was 1995 Ford F150 4.9L Fuel Injected. and Eddie Bauer/special/XL/XLT. Don't mean to sound dumb, but this is the first truck (besides my Nissan King Cab from years ago). After that, all we've had are passenger vehicles. Saturns. I have always done all my own work (alternator, radiator, water pump, tensioner pulley, as well as routine stuff) except for transmission or anything that required something to be pressed on (wheel bearing).

After the long intro and many questions....hello to you old timers (compliment intended) and to us new comers.

Cheers!
Rhonda

 

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Hello, kinda new as well, didnt know F-150 had the 4.9L motor in full size trucks? 300-6 or 5.0L/5.8 etc. Unless they put the newer mustang motor in trucks. I think the 4.9L came out about that time.

 

Sorry brain-fart I saw you had V6 and 4.9L. The 4.9L is a 300-6 inline not a V6. I didnt think a V6 was use in 1995, only Inline 6 4.9L. I know that Ford did use a V6 in later trucks but dont know when it started. The 300-6 was started in 60's? As far as knowing if it is XL or XLT etc, I only know that it has badge on side of truck and usually has on dash area. Dont know if that is listed on VIN.

 

I learned after poking around this great site is:

1. It's a straight 6. The engine is a workhorse.
2. The rear main seal gaskets need to be checked...seemed to be many posts on this gasket leaking.
3. It's not a huge job to replace leaf springs.
4. On replacing the ball joints: I found the great thread with pix. I can't quite tell what the tool is with c-clamp that is pressing ball joint out/in.

Summary of my questions thus far, for ease of answering:

1. How can I tell if the ball joints need to be replaced? does the outside tire wear on both front tires indicate that? Or, could they have been rotated and it doesn't mean anything?
2. How can I tell if the ball joints are the sealed kind or not?
3. VIN questions: What does the 3,4 and 5 digits on my vin mean? See previous post. I won't insult your intelligence or clutter up the boards by re-posting this whole long part and the additional related questions as to body style, special, eddie bauer, etc.

Hello again and thanks for any info you all can help me with.

Rhonda

 

I never have done ball joints myself, but will be soon. I will read manuals tonight and get back w/ ya on VIN. Someone else will probally help you sooner than me.
As for leaf springs, the hardest part is removing the rust stuck bolts on each end the the lg, u-bolts around the axle. 4 on each leaf. It is tempting to torch them off or wizz-whell them, but they are expensive to get, and nearly have to go to Ford dealer parts to get them. Lube em up good... PB Blaster or something good for days before will help. And of course support the truck while removing them. Ball joint pullers are a common tool, as are the forks. There are tricks to doing that stuff. I have seem my friend use only a fork and pound in the right places w/ big hammer. You will need to research that one better, I like to buy or rent the right tool and have less trouble.

 

Correction, the U-bolts that hold leaf springs to axle on each side are only 2 per side not 4 like I stated. DAJ.

 

Hi Rhonda, try to answer some of your questions best I can.
First the VIN #'s position 3 is the Type, your case it is "T" for Truck as you already had correct. Position 4, weight class, 5-6000 lbs. you had correct.
Position 5, "R" or (R15) as a group: book states Position 5,6 &7 Model or Line, Series, Chasssis, Cab type.
This I dont know from all 3 of my manuals/books. My VIN is "R14" and have reg.cab long box, XLT.

As for ball joints, the sealed ones from Ford are stupid, they have no grease nipples, or a way to grease them at regular intervals. If they have the grease nipples then they were replaced or Ford was good enough to put them in when made on the line.
One upper ball joint and one lower on each side of truck.

Usually with outside tire wear, that could indicate ball Joints or old coil springs. I have seen mechanics check ball joints in the rack w/ lg.pry bar and check for wiggle or loose contacts, and lots of grease comming or or torn joint boots. One can usually notice when driving it, or especially turning the truck, will jerk and feel loose. Best to have someone w/ experience to determine if ball joints are bad or going bad, can be dangerous to drive if some or all are bad.
Would be nice to quick check wheel bearings by having truck up in air, or when checking ball joints, move tire/rim up and down and feel for wiggle/loosness at the center of wheel at spindle. This can also contribute to ball joints fatigue and vice versa.
See ya, DAJ

 

Ball Joint check...is there a lot of play in the steering wheel when you are driving? Does the truck seem to wander within your lane no matter where you point it? Ball joints are a common problem on these truck. When in doubt, replace them.

 

"Ball joints are a common problem on these truck. When in doubt, replace them."

Thanks! I actually ended up taking the 1995 f150 truck back and getting a 1996 F250 automatic. I took it to a shop for a safety inspection. It needs: Outer and inner tie rods
Right side view mirror
Left and right Spring shakle kits
Front brakes.

It cost less for the 1996 F250 than the 95 F150, even with all the above repairs needed on the F250. So, I'll probably be posting again, except with questions on the F250.

Thanks,
Rhonda