That's not supposed to be there....
#18
#19
Yep, pretty worn out. Since you are young, you will learn a lot working on vehicles. As soon as you have a wrench or socket slip on the head of a bolt or a nut. Stop before it gets worse (like in this case) Find a six point wrench or socket instead of a 12 point. They don't slip as easy. Also keep an assortment of inch and metric tools. A lot of time when a bolt gets worn you can go to a metric tool (or vice versa) that might fit tighter. Also, buy some liquid wrench, rust buster, or some other penetrating oil and use it. It's better to use it for several days before you remove that stubborn bolt. Finally buy some anti seize compound. It's a type of grease that you put on the threads of a bolt before you install it. That way you can always remove it later. This is very important when installing steel bolts into aluminum as it will corrode and seize in place. This can happen to the shaft of the bolt as well as the threads so coat the whole length of the bolt with the anti seize compound. Finally, never ever hesitate to ask others questions. Everyone had to learn sometime, you'll learn too!
#20
i don't know if you guys a familiar with the way that the fuel lines are connected to the fuel rails, if you are here's the problem...the spring coupling in the driver side is stuck, the tool that is supposed to be used won't work...if there's any other way to do it please let me know, if the springs don't cost an arm and a leg i'm tempted to just pull it out and buy another one
#21
No, that tool will work but sometimes they are stuck. Again, spray a little liquid wrench on it. When they have not been off for 10 years they get stuck. Push the tool in as hard as you can and hold it there. At the same time try to push the fitting farther together and twist it back and forth. After you get it moving start pulling it apart, the whole time holding the tool in tight. It'd would be a lot easier if you had three hands instead of two. I've had a bunch of them that were hard to disconnect.
#22
#23
OK, so i've decided to go with the 302 short block i am wanting to upgradde some of the parts though. I'm wanting to go with new headers, ignition coil & distributer, cam that's all of the major stuff, i was wanting some part manufacturers that you guys trust. If it's not too much trouble could you post the prices on some of these parts too. Thank you guys for all of your help!!!
Jason
****Sorry about the picture size
Jason
****Sorry about the picture size
#24
Well today i started taking the front end (alt., smog pump, water pump, etc...) off, i can't get the harmonic balancer off w/o a puller, right??? If so i'll have to go rent one. I'm still not sure as to what it damage inside the engine is right now...i'll hopefully know by the end of the day, if i find anytnig interesting i'll post....
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RacinNdrummin
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
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10-20-2018 05:56 PM