Turbo Surge/Flutter. Same Thing??
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 297
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From: Lewiston, Idaho
The wicked wheel can be changed without pulling the downpipe. I don't see why it can't be since it is replacing the wheel on the intake side of the turbo. Everyone says its fairly easy to put on. Then some say the turbo should be taken off to install the wicked wheel and then have it balanced. I get bad turbo surge when pulling hills at about 65-70 in 5th gear. My boost needles just vibrates back and forth around 15 psi and it sounds real bad. I havn't cured it yet though because i havn't decided between the ATS housing(which involves no balancing or turbo removal therefore making easier install but cost about 400) or just buying a new bigger BB turbo. For now i just step off the throttle to stop it.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
Originally Posted by Turbo_Whistler
The wicked wheel can be changed without pulling the downpipe.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 297
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From: Lewiston, Idaho
K2vailkid,
Your probably right as i have never installed one and i see you have one. Probably not the best idea, but i assumed an air gun with an impact socket would give enough instant torque to loosen the nut. This procedure i did when putting the buffing wheel on my dual grinder as i could not hold one side very well, while trying to wrench on the nut on the other side. Just assumed it might work the same???? but i should not speak what is only assumed, and ask instead. haha
Your probably right as i have never installed one and i see you have one. Probably not the best idea, but i assumed an air gun with an impact socket would give enough instant torque to loosen the nut. This procedure i did when putting the buffing wheel on my dual grinder as i could not hold one side very well, while trying to wrench on the nut on the other side. Just assumed it might work the same???? but i should not speak what is only assumed, and ask instead. haha
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 369
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From: Colorado Mountain Country
I'd say it's possible with an air wrench, boy howdy would that save a bunch of time, but that shaft is only 1/4", the bearings are/seem to be quite good, and stripping the threads makes me ill to even consider. Re-aligning the downpipe really sucked, but pulling a turbo, buying a new turbo, and installing said turbo including re-aligning said downpipe anyway sounds like a pandoras box I choose not not open at the expense of time. Anyway, we all love wrenching on our rigs, so why not spend the extra time doing the job!
Last edited by k2vailkid; Aug 9, 2005 at 11:00 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Dallas, Texas
DO NOT use an air wrench.
Removing all of the ducting to the aircleaner will expose the intake bezel to the turbo compressor. Release the clamps that hold the nozzle to the intake.There's a little nut on the end of the main shaft. You can remove the down pipe and wedge it out of the way enough to get a wrench on the turbine side nut. Then remove the compressor nut. Remove the torx bolts on the OD of the compressor housing. (i believe the waste gate is attached to one) separate the compressor housing from the center housing. remove the old wheel and replace. Be sure to inspect the large rubber o-ring thar seals the compressor housing. If there's any cracks in it - replace it. Then just backwards engineer the removal. This would be a good time to inspect the compressor housing itself. Look for gouging or irregular wear.
I would consult the shop manuals for torque values on the compressor nut.
Removing all of the ducting to the aircleaner will expose the intake bezel to the turbo compressor. Release the clamps that hold the nozzle to the intake.There's a little nut on the end of the main shaft. You can remove the down pipe and wedge it out of the way enough to get a wrench on the turbine side nut. Then remove the compressor nut. Remove the torx bolts on the OD of the compressor housing. (i believe the waste gate is attached to one) separate the compressor housing from the center housing. remove the old wheel and replace. Be sure to inspect the large rubber o-ring thar seals the compressor housing. If there's any cracks in it - replace it. Then just backwards engineer the removal. This would be a good time to inspect the compressor housing itself. Look for gouging or irregular wear.
I would consult the shop manuals for torque values on the compressor nut.
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