Broken Water pump bolt

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Aug 1, 2005 | 08:36 AM

BROKEN88F150

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Broken Water pump bolt

OK, I got a serious prolem here. I have a broken bolt that holds on the water pump on an '88 f150 with the 302. Its the lower one on the passenger side, on the lower side of the port. Here is where it gets tricky. It broke off flush with the block so I had to take off the timing chain cover to get at it, but that left nothing to grip on to. I have already tried drilling down the center and using an easy out, and go figure, now have an easy out broken off in there also. Obviously I need to get this out or else the water pump is going to leak. Anyone got any suggestions?...I cant afford the $$$ to take it to the dealership (not only that but I know those guys and wouldn't my sons little red flyer wagon to them)

In the mean time, since I have the timing chain cover off and the oil pan dropped to do that I have replaced the oil pump and timing chain and sprokets (about 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play on either side of the sproets...WOW) anything else I should be replacing wile I am this far in in this area?

Last edited by TigerDan; Aug 1, 2005 at 08:09 PM.

Aug 1, 2005 | 07:24 PM

monoman

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From: Windsor, CA

As far as the broken bolt in the timing cover I would go to the local wrecking yard (they are not really junk yards you know) and pick up a used cover for $15 or $20. A new one from FORD will cost you $136!

Aug 1, 2005 | 08:04 PM

TigerDan

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

I don't think that'll solve his problem, he said the bolt's broken off in the block, one of the ones that goes clear through the timing cover.
A trick that a buddy of mine uses (He's a welder) is to put a nut over the end of the broken bolt, or up to it as close as he can get it and arcweld through the center of the nut to the broken bolt. The heat of welding breks the bolt loose and it usually unscrews fairly easily. If there's too much gap because the bolt is broken off too far inside the block (or whatever) it doesn't work too well, but I've seen him carefully build it up to the nut without welding to the sides of the hole.

BTW, welcome to FTE! Here's a link to the guidelines, please give them a read as they contain important info that you need for posting here:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/guidelines.html

Last edited by TigerDan; Aug 1, 2005 at 08:08 PM.

Aug 1, 2005 | 08:50 PM

alchymist

"Mifflin Clay"

Joined: Jul 2005

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From: Mifflin, PA

Last time I broke one off - 1983 GMC Caballero, 350 , alternator bolt in passenger side head. Drilled, then broke off the easy out. Da#n that was tight. Wound up with a 3/8 drill and a handfull of the tiny pointed dremel stones. (The ones on the 1/8 inch shaft). Ground on that easy out until I got thru it, then picked the pieces out. Redrilled and retapped to 7/16, (was 3/8). Put in a grade 8 bolt, and opened up the ear on the alternator just slightly. Original spacer fit over the 7/16 bolt. Been working ever since.

Aug 2, 2005 | 12:07 AM

Dannym

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From: Sweden

Had the EXACT same problem!

I used a carbide cutter on my Dremel. They're not a regular store item, got a set off of eBay. I used a little turnip-shaped cone down the middle to grind out the center of the bolt and then used an extractor bit to tear out the debris and remaining bits of bolt thread.

But if you broke off the extractor I'm not sure what to do. That's probably hardened steel and a cutter, even carbide, will have trouble here!

Aug 2, 2005 | 09:19 AM

BROKEN88F150

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Thanks for the tips guys...I did manage to come accross a carbide left handed drill bit set and am going to see if that will do anything with this. As far as arc welding a bolt on, I am still checking through my buds to see if any of them can do that for me (I dont know jack about welding). I have a dremmel set and will also try that if plan A and plan B don't work.

Thanks

Aug 13, 2005 | 04:39 PM

72earl302

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From: Imboden/Little Rock AR

when I got a water pump leak on my 302, I broke three of the bolts off (two that went into the block). I had to cut my timing cover off around one of the long bolts. Mine weren't stuck in the block though, they were just stuck solid in the timing cover, I'd think that heating would be your best bet. I would just get alot of penetrating oil and a propane torch and keep heating and cooling it. It worked for me on other bolts. The welding would work better if you had a little bit of a shaft sticking out. When you weld it you could risk messing up your gasket surface, it would probably be a little less risky if you used a MIG(wire) welder. If you can weld a little bead on the end of the bolt big enough to get a pair of vice grips on, it will probably come right out. I'd try almost anything before I drilled it out and retapped it.