'66 front disc convertion
The best truck show on the net.There are two trains of thought on the swap. Because there are some little differences, I recommend swapping the complete I-beams, steering gear, master cylinder & booster, porp. valve, everything from a single source donor. You are keeping with a engineered system, and not some back yard system. I would install a new reman ms and pads with the upgrade, although if it was working on the donor it should still work.
I have heard of issues with kingpin out upgrades that don't happen with the complete swap. The main reason that I recommend the total package is that most of us are amitures in this area, we are less likely to run in to snags.
I bought a 76 F100 and swapped everythng under my 66 F100.
wishing you the best
John
Again Welcome aboard; also suggest you do a "Search this Thread" to look up past threads involving this conversion. Probably the most talk about conversion on the site.
Mitch
I also welcome you to FTE
I agree with John, if this is your 1st go round, use the whole set up, twin I beams & all and 73 to 79 will all fit & work when used this way.
While you're at it go ahead and R&R your bushings for the I Beams & radius arms. Another point to consider is you may realize a front anti sway bar is a great improvement. There's no provision to mount it on 65-6 radius arms, but there is on 73-9 radius arms. If you'd used them (73-9) radius arms to start, addition of front anti sway bar's a virtual "bolt up deal".
Often when conversion is performed "spindles outward" [otherwords kingpins outward] there can be lock pin location & kingpin diameter issues. These can stem from axle load rating, year of manufacture, truck model [camper/trailer special] and so on. To get around all that use entire subassemblies like John points out.
As for your original question, the master cylinder you do use should come from a disc brake system. What advantage do you expect to gain by using another M-Cyl besides one for a truck?
Plus, are you aware the "hot set- up" for a brake light switch is later, pedal arm, contact type is preferred over early pressure style switches used on our SLICKS originally? With discs you'll stop qwiker, and with the old pressure wsitch your brake lights light later/ slower. IOW you are already stopping B4 the brake lights come on.
That "second" of time is worth 88 feet at 60Mph, FWIW. . . .
Well, anyway Welcome again to FTE & be lookin for you in the forum. . . .
FBp
Last edited by FordBoypete; Aug 2, 2005 at 09:47 AM.





