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Me and a friend of mine bought a '79 f100 ranger for $200. It runs decent after some new plugs, wires and dist. cap. The BIGGEST problem is that all the ball joints are worn completly out. Its like driving on ice - down the highway! Are we gonna have to replace the tie rods or just the ball joints?
You will not have to replace the tie rods,but its a good idea to replace the tie rod bushings wile your replaceing the ball joints.Also replace the wheel barings since you will have it all apart.
About the only reason one would need to reaplace the tie rod is if its to bent or the eyes busted out.
You will have to replace both upper and lower ball joints, you can rent tools such as the ball joint remover & installer at Autozone. Replace any tie rod(s) which have any up and down or side to side play (Tie rod end remover tool from Autozone). Also inspect the radius arm bushing and replace if necessary (if replacing the bushing use the graphite bushings, they last longer). Check the track arm for worn bushings or worn bolts. Also inspect the steering gear box for any play in steering (tighten the Sector Shaft Adjustment Screw, make sure you don't overtighten the screw).
Use a pry bar to check and inspect the tie rod ends. An easy way to check the track arm play is have your friend turn the steering wheel side to side while you or your friend visually look at the play on the track arm. Should have very minimal side to side movement.
Is this a 2wd or 4wd? My book only shows the 2wd having kingpins, whick would have bushings, not ball joints... the ball joint suspension didn't come out until after 80, so unless the I beams have been replaced, it should be kingpin...
I had a 79' F150 2wd about a year ago - it had ball joints. I was able to get the long drag link with both ball joints and inner and outer tie rods and adjuster's for less than $200 through the local NAPA. Everything was brand new. It was a fairly quick unbolt and re-bolt project. I got everything snug and took it in for a front end alignment - HUGE Difference. It was very tight and responsive afterwards and I had less than $250 into it total.
Ok, the tie rod ends are easy to replace, the hardest part is getting the adjusting sleeve to move. A good investment would be to just buy a new one, then if it doesn't cooperate, you can just cut it off with the heat wrench and put the new one on. Loosen up the nut a ways, rap on the spindle where it bolts on with a good hammer and they generally fall right out.
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