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We got everything taken down to the point of removing the nuts from the ball joint. But there is a wedge ring on the top ball joint. We beat on it for ever till we gave up. Is there a way to get it lose or do I need a torch?
What you do is loosen the bottom and take off the top nut, then beat on the top of the ball joint bolt. Your whole knuckle joint should just fall right off and you should be able to easily get the camber adjuster out. You should not need to use a torch.
We got everything taken down to the point of removing the nuts from the ball joint. But there is a wedge ring on the top ball joint. We beat on it for ever till we gave up. Is there a way to get it lose or do I need a torch?
Are you talking about the caster camber bushings? Spray it with some penetrating oil let it sit for awhile then try it shouldn't be that tight on there When you reinstall it put a ****load of antiseeze on this part.-Bob I wouldn't use a torch on the knuckle too much heat will hurt it.
ya, I think it is the caster camber bushing. After you take the nut off the top its the next thing that looks like it should slide off. I might spray it down with PB Blaster and try it again. Would a pickle fork help? I realy don't want to pay some on todo it. I just spent all day working at it and had to put it back together to get her home.
ya, I think it is the caster camber bushing. After you take the nut off the top its the next thing that looks like it should slide off. I might spray it down with PB Blaster and try it again. Would a pickle fork help? I realy don't want to pay some on todo it. I just spent all day working at it and had to put it back together to get her home.
If the fork is wide enough- it should work- i can't believe it's that tight. -Bob
I used a pitman arm puller on mine. I had to machine the inside dimension of the puller a little to get it to fit and placed the centering point of the threaded part in a hex nut so it would push flat on the ball joint stud. This along with the PB soaking and off it came.
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