Braking improvements needed
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
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From: Florida
Braking improvements needed
Got new brake pads on mine all around and rotors in good shape but doesn't seem to brake as well as I think it should. I pull a 36 ft 5th wheel often and could use more braking capability that is available.
1)Any suggestions on how to check the braking capability? distance to stop test, etc.?
2)Can anyone suggest what to check that might need to be repaired, pm'd to make improvement?
3)Also, what suggestions for mods to improve braking performance.
Thanks
1)Any suggestions on how to check the braking capability? distance to stop test, etc.?
2)Can anyone suggest what to check that might need to be repaired, pm'd to make improvement?
3)Also, what suggestions for mods to improve braking performance.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 113
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I would check the braking system on the trailer. I am assuming that if it is a 36' 5th wheel you have electric brakes on the trailer. If you don't have brakes on the trailer than without a doubt you are stressing the brakes on your truck, not to mention it is very dangerous.
Assuming you have brakes on the trailer,
1. check the brake receptacle/connector and ensure all the pins are making good connections
2. ensure your brake unit is properly synchronized with the truck brakes
3. check the braking system (pads, shoes) on the trailer
Assuming you have brakes on the trailer,
1. check the brake receptacle/connector and ensure all the pins are making good connections
2. ensure your brake unit is properly synchronized with the truck brakes
3. check the braking system (pads, shoes) on the trailer
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
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From: Florida
thanks randle_ford for the info. I did not post info originally about the trailer brakes but I have done all that and they are at their peak.
My point is the truck does not seem to have great braking response unloaded with no trailer in tow. I am wondering if it is braking to spec or not as it is...
My point is the truck does not seem to have great braking response unloaded with no trailer in tow. I am wondering if it is braking to spec or not as it is...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
The best way to break in new brakes is to drive along with a very light pressure on the brake pedal for a few miles. That will mate the pads to the rotors and produce what is called friction coal dust between the pads and the rotors. Also OE pads work the best, I don't know what brand you put in but some aftermarket pads just dont work right.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Big Red 00 F350
Kwikk,
Thanks for the info. I did know about the burn-in technique.. good idea.
I did use Ford OEM pads when they were changed!!!...
Thanks for the info. I did know about the burn-in technique.. good idea.
I did use Ford OEM pads when they were changed!!!...
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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I JUST HAD ALL NEW ROTORS PADS AND CALIPERS PUT ON MY O1 F350 WITH ONLY 32000 MILES
..Anyway dealer covered it..But I was talking with mech and he said that they have floating pads..And my old calipers had froze up..so they werent floating...
Once they changed everything out she stopped alot better..What I am trien to say is you might need new calipers....
..Anyway dealer covered it..But I was talking with mech and he said that they have floating pads..And my old calipers had froze up..so they werent floating...Once they changed everything out she stopped alot better..What I am trien to say is you might need new calipers....
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 183
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From: La Vernia, Texas
I went with Applied Rotor Technology rotors for the front of my truck. I have been very pleased with the results so far and agree with Kwik that bedding in the brakes is critical to good performance and longevity. I caution you though the ART rotors are expensive due to the cryogenic process used to treat the rotors.
I have had the rotors on for over a year and have towed everything from car haulers up to a 30' travel trailer and have had no issues.
I have had the rotors on for over a year and have towed everything from car haulers up to a 30' travel trailer and have had no issues.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
One thing to do is to bleed the brake lines to remove any possible air bubbles. I'm wondering about the post for the floating calipers, all that means is the caliper can slide left or right to apply even pressure with both pads. If they didn't float, I would think a cleaning of the pin / caliper hole would fix it. The other thing to check is to make sure the pads don't bind up in the caliper. Cryogenic processing on rotors? Next thing to find now is a flux capacitor!
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
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From: Florida
Kwikk,
I meant to say I did not know about the pad burn-in.
Thanks
thanks to the other guys for the ideas. I actually had the Ford Diesel guy do the brakes when I first bought the truck since I was in a hurry to go haul something heavy...
I need to take the time to open it up and look at calipers and brake linings and bleeding of lines, etc. I guess.
I meant to say I did not know about the pad burn-in.
Thanks
thanks to the other guys for the ideas. I actually had the Ford Diesel guy do the brakes when I first bought the truck since I was in a hurry to go haul something heavy...
I need to take the time to open it up and look at calipers and brake linings and bleeding of lines, etc. I guess.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
That I don't know. I would go out and try a panic stop somewhere on a clean dry patch of pavement where you have some room and see if the ABS comes on or not. If it does, I would say you're good to go.
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Florida
thanks kwikk. I just need to know right now if it is doing 60% of spec or 90% or what. If it is really low, then I need to do checking sooner.
I haul a very heavy load 16K lbs. 5th wheel which is over what is recommended for the F350 and at least I need to be sure all is running as good as it can with what I have both on the trk and trailer......
I haul a very heavy load 16K lbs. 5th wheel which is over what is recommended for the F350 and at least I need to be sure all is running as good as it can with what I have both on the trk and trailer......
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: La Vernia, Texas
Originally Posted by roaky81
Cryogenic processing on rotors? Next thing to find now is a flux capacitor!
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by MentalState
I JUST HAD ALL NEW ROTORS PADS AND CALIPERS PUT ON MY O1 F350 WITH ONLY 32000 MILES..Anyway dealer covered it..But I was talking with mech and he said that they have floating pads..And my old calipers had froze up..so they werent floating...
Once they changed everything out she stopped alot better..What I am trien to say is you might need new calipers....
..Anyway dealer covered it..But I was talking with mech and he said that they have floating pads..And my old calipers had froze up..so they werent floating...Once they changed everything out she stopped alot better..What I am trien to say is you might need new calipers....