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I posted on here several weeks ago hunting a box for my '59, and was lucky enough to meet a fellow member, JKBondo, who sent me one UPS with the deal that if it worked for me to send him a check for it. Don't find many trusting folks like that anymore., Anyway, they're not the same box. the one he sent me is notically larger and is splined completely around the pitman arm shaft, where mind is splined about 1/4 of the diameter, speakiing of diameter, mine is 1.250, his is roughly 1.125. What have I got here? The mounting locations are different, the steering column tube goes inside of his box, and clamped on the outside of mine. Its in good shape and if I can redrill the chassis to make it work I'm gonna, but what is it, maybe out of a 3/4 or 1 ton?
Hi Bob. Can't help with the 57-60 series of trucks yet - sorry. I'm trying to get hold of some better parts books right now based on the advice of 57-60 gurus on the forum.
Those 57-60 gurus should be by shortly to help you out.
It doesn't sound like a 57-60 box. Does it have a part number on it? I have two, one from a 60 and one from a 59 and they are just like you described. Is yours not repairable, they are pretty simple. Anyway, I am in Ohio, if you are still looking for one send me an email.
I was just looking at mine - I have both a 59 and a 60 exposed at the moment. The 59 shop manual shows two different steering boxes - one (like both of mine) for light duty applications and a "Typical" medium-duty or heavy-duty steering box.
The use of the word "typical" may indicate that there are other style boxes in service.
On mine, the housing cover (plate with the sector shaft thrust adjusting screw, nearest the engine) has four bolts holding it to the housing, while the medium or heavy duty has six.
From the illistrations it looks like they should mount in the same holes.
I would go slow using the heavy duty one - check out that the turn ratio is about the same. You don't want a box off a tractor that takes 20 turns of the steering wheel to make a turn into your driveway.
I'd love to see pictures. I pulled my 54 apart to try and install the Toyota conversion only to find a non-54 box in there. The shaft is the stock length, but the steering column housing was shortened to accomodate. It also has a much larger mounting patern than the original 54, and the PO drilled new holes in the frame to accomodate. Anyway, I'd love pics to ID what I've got so I can replace or rebuild it. (what's the term you guys use - Cootin bobbin?)
Brad,
Why not just put in the Toybox anyhow? Worst case scenario you have to weld up the current mounting holes and drill new ones for the Toybox mount. Original should have mounted with three bolts thru the frame.
There's an easier way to get the URL for a picture you can see on your screen (assuming there is nothing else on the page) such as the full size image in your gallery.
Just click once anywhere in the address bar at the top of the browser window so the address there is highlighted and press control C (hold down the control key and click the letter c key, this is called the "copy command") now click inside your post where you want the URL to appear and press control V (the "paste command"). Whatever you copied is stored in your "clipboard" and can be "pasted" as many times as you wish until you "copy" something else over it or shut off your computer.
Toy box didn't fit in original location due to bigblock. So I'm back to my who-knows-what 'original' and very loose steering box. I can do the Toyota only if I re-drill the frame and move the whole box back a few inches, have a custom drag link made, and mess around with a few other things. Someday...
Brad,
I feel your pain. Due to engine issues (I have a 500ci Caddy) I mounted my toyota box in front of the axle and built my own drag link using toyota parts. I've driven the truck a few times but just around the block and not with the pump hooked up yet.....hopefully soon
I looked at your gallery and I remember the previous thread when we discussed your drag link. If you are going to use this as a long term set up, I would drill two 1/4" holes vertically and put two #8 bolts through the two bars, that way if the weld fails, the bolts should help you stay between the ditches. Just food for thought, I would hate to read about you in the paper if you know what I mean.
Brad,
Still think you should go with the Toy box even if you need to move it back some. It looks like it would be more compact than the box in there now, mounts lower in the frame and depending on how far back it needs to go, Mid Fifty sells an 1-1/2" longer draglink for the moved centerbolt springs. You're going to need a new draglink no matter what so even if a even longer custom one is needed it won't be a major hit. That draglink you have on there would never pass the state safety inspection here and it's a pretty liberal one.
I agree, that looks a little iffy to me. When I mad my drag link I used the toyota set up but had to cut about 5 inches out of it. I sleeved it with piece of pipe, welded both ends completely around the pipe and drilled a couple of holes through the pipe sleeve on each side of the drag link and plug welded them also. It might be a little overkill but trying to drive without steering is something I don't really want to experience.
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