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I have just purchased my inverter (2000wat/4000peak) and want to mount it. How can I run the wiring from inside the cab to the outside and to the engine compartment WITHOUT drilling holes everyone and WITHOUT going right through the firewall. I want to keep everything as hidden as possible.
Don't think it's doable w/o making holes. You need to run some pretty fat wire to handle the current, so you can't just loosen the plate above the throttle.
There might be some room to get through in the grommet underneath the carpet next to the throttle assemby. The tranmission control wires go through there. DaBigTow is right about the wire size. I don't know what the max rating is but I wouldn't go any less than 6 guage wire.
Dang, can't find my NEC code book... At 4000 watts, you're talking as much as 350 amps!!! That's huge! Guessing here, but I'll bet you need at least 2/0 cable, like welding leads or starter wire. Check with you favorite electrical supply house to confirm the wire size for that current.
yeah, for wire, on my 800 watt amp for my stereo i used 4 gauge. it was a little overkill, but better safe than sorry. you'd probably be good off mounting the inverter in a toolbox if you have one. run all the wiring under the truck (protected/covered of course) up through the bed to the box. then, jsut cut a hole in the side of the box and install a outlet box or whatever. use a waterproof electrical box cover.
I beleive the documentation that came with the unit said 4 to 0.
Let me ask this....would it then be better to mount it in the bed of the truck?
Yes. More exposure to air so the cooling fan doesn't have to work so hard. Also at that sort of rating I would be considering an auxiliary battery pack mounted next to it. You could really suck down your batteries at that sort of load. Not to mention heat them up pretty good.
I placed mine under the back seat and ran the cables through the floor grommets, along the frame, and then back up to the batteries. 3000/ 6000 watt vector. Works great. Placed an outlet on the headache rack of the flatbed and it runs my miller mig 135, 5 hp air compressor, you name it. I ran 3/0 welding cables for the leads inside of a 2" rubber hose to prevent rubbing and exposure of bare cables. Not sure if you have the extended cab or not, but you may be able to place it behind the seat of a standard cab.
I placed mine under the back seat and ran the cables through the floor grommets, along the frame, and then back up to the batteries. 3000/ 6000 watt vector. Works great. Placed an outlet on the headache rack of the flatbed and it runs my miller mig 135, 5 hp air compressor, you name it. I ran 3/0 welding cables for the leads inside of a 2" rubber hose to prevent rubbing and exposure of bare cables. Not sure if you have the extended cab or not, but you may be able to place it behind the seat of a standard cab.
There is a large rubber seal placed in the floor. About 3" diameter if I remember correctly. You can see this by laying underneath the truck. There is one about 1 1/2 feet from the rocker panel on each side. I believe I did cut a flap in the carpet to get to this. Just cut an L shape to push your cables through, then you won't have a gaping hole in the carpet. Do the same in the rubber plug/grommet. My inverter fit just right under the seat, and I've never had any problems with overheating it. Always leave the truck running when your'e really pulling the amps though. They have the 10.5 volt safety shutdown, but the truck won't start at this low of voltage. Hope this helps!
If you are really going to pull a constant 2000 watts and peak at 4000, then you really need to run 250 MCM wire. You can get this at any electrical supply house, but ask for 250 MCM diesel cable (no pun intended). This type wire is very pliable and easy to work with, although it is as big as your thumb. Hopefully the lugs on the inverter are large enough to accept that large of wire. Make sure the ground is the same size as the hot lead....just as important cause current goes there as well....
250 MCM wire is good for 340 amps at 140 degrees in open air
350 AMPS??????? where did you get that figure from?
Watts= Voltagexamps thus
amps= watts/volts......... 4000/120v=33.3 amps
However this is an 2000w 4000w peak inverter so it's really an 2000 watt inverter peak is just momentary I can assure that it will not put out 4000 watts continuosly, so you are really talking about 2000 watts continously( about 17 amps). I would go with whatever the inverter's manufacturer suggest as far as wire size goes. Besides the supply side of the inverter(battery to inverter connection) does not carry the output load. I would however recommend an additional battery just for the inverter. That way the only wire you have to run from the engine compartment is the alternator supply.(much smaller) also it will save your engine batteries.
BTW: I am assuming 120v if your are using 240v then the amperage goes down even more.
I hope that helps
Wow that's about three times what the alternator will put out. The poor thing's going to smoke itself. Why such a big inverter?
It was free so i figured "what the heck". Have had some thoughts of selling it for a physically smaller easier to mount one but not sure. Still considering all options and reading stuff here......
Just had a thought.......does 2000amp inverter mean that it will always put out 2000 to be used or does it just increase the amps as the equipment you plug in needs more?