Hey whats up
So im tired of my carbuerated fuel system delivery problem. I can't do extended climbs in high RPM with out sputtering. I live in Boulder and getting over Eisenhower and Vail pass has been annoying, I have enough power but after a about a minute my engine starts to sputter and i have to drop to drop the fuel consumption to make it over the hill. Also when 4 wheeling really hard stuff I am constantly reminded of sloshing gas and delivery problems, when i go through water I get probs... etc...

btw heres my truck
69 Bronco 302, 650 holley card, edelbrock performer manifold, K&N air filter, some sort of non-point ignition, james duff headers, Dana 44 w/ disc front, ford 9" rear limited slip, 4.10 gears, NP435 tranny, 35" Mud terrains, electirc fuel pump (not sure what delivery rate, but not good enough.)

Because of the 4 wheeling i/m doing the carb set up is not doing it for me. I dont have a power issue, I have a fuel delivery issue, I have the NP435 so my first gear is low enough. I've been thinking lately of converting to fuel injection. now everyone in the short amount of time is saying the 92-93 mustang HO conversion. But not only is that expensive but its very difficult to find. Unless you have ****loads of money. which i dont. Also thats great to have that much power, but i'm not a power freak. What about a regular 5.0 fuel injection? Will that be about the same amount of horsepower as my carbed 302 now? and what about emissions? In Colorado I've got collectors plates so I don't have to pass any emissions test. So can i do fuel injection without adding all that emission crap to my truck? So what other cars can i get fuel injection off of that will work and have decent power and not be such a major conversion process. I found an 1988 lincoln continental with the intake on the passenger side, which seems to be right, in great shape and i can salvage the intake, rails, 19lbs injectors, harness, sensors, computer and whatever else for about $150. not telling where!! now also heard you neeed a different computer chip to go from automatic tranny setups such as this to a manual setup. So there we go... Any super brainers out there with answers?
Thanks in advance
trevor 69bronco69

 

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Yes, the standard MPFI 5.0 system will work on a stock engine. It all depends on how you want it to run in the end. The advantage of the 89-93 SEFI MAF system is the upgradeability, aftermarket support and more accurate engine management over the standard 5.0. Plus, if you go with a complete engine swap, the Mustang and Lincoln LSC 5.0's are roller cam engines. The 89-93 HO swap is not that expensive. I have found complete low mileage engines with ECM, sensors and wiring harness as cheap as $700.

You do not need to use any of the emissions equipment such as a cat, air pump, charcoal canister. I have heard of some recommending to lose the EGR as well, but I feel that it is important for engine driveability with a stock ECM.
You can use a manual ECM with an automatic trans and vise versa. I run an auto ECM with my 4 speed without a problem. There are some wiring differences between a auto and manual ECM to be aware of before mixing and matching though.

While it sounds like you have found a good deal, be prepared for all of the extras that you will need to complete the swap. Fuel pump(s), wiring, relays, split loom, high pressure fuel hose and fittings, and lots of other assorted forgotten goodies will drive up the cost of the swap considerably.

There are a few of us on here that have done these conversions. If you need help along the way, there is always someone here to help.

Jason

 

Hey thanks alot.

Yea the standard 5.0 is fine for me. so if i pulled 5.0 stuff from a 1988 lincoln continental are you saying its MPFI? not SEFI? which is fine. Do you know precisely which sensors i need or dont need to make this work? and should i grab a manual harness or is the auto harness fine? and your saying i could go back and grab that auto ECM from teh lincoln and be fine with it? what about the fuel pump from it?. Basically its a complete car minus the seats and i can grab everything i want from it.. What are those wiring differences?
thanks
trev

 

Also there were cougars and thunderbirds with 5.0's. I don't know much else beyond that. I am glad/frustrated that mine already had all that when I bought it. Make sure and cap all wires not being used and use the proper connectors for all the splices. That's where my frustartion is coming in now. Too many shortcuts!

I am in denver, what's your bronco look like?

J.D.

 

According to my information, it is not SEFI. If you can get a number from the ECM, I may be able to tell for sure. I have seen them both ways.

As for sensors, here is a list of the ones not attached to the engine:

• Oxygen sensor(s)
• MAP sensor
• Vehicle Speed Sensor- optional, but grab it anyways
• TAB solenoid- not required, but keeps from setting code if you don't have
• TAD solenoid- a resistor in the circuit. Used for Air pump system
• EGR solenoid
• canister purge solenoid- same idea as the TAB and TAD solenoids

There are also sensors and actuators in the upper and lower intake that you'll want to take.
Pretty much take anything that is attached to the engine harness. If you decide not to use it later, you can throw it away. You also need to get the fuel pump relay and wiring. On most Lincolns, it is in the trunk near the inertia switch.

I would take the engine wiring harness and the matching ECM from the same donor as your intake parts. It makes things so much easier when it comes time to put it all together. I would also recommend getting the VIN info from the car which will make ordering parts a lot easier.

The main wiring differences between the auto and manual ECM has to do with the Neutral Drive Switch. There are some differences in programming between them. The auto has a little more aggressive spark timing and some other minor changes.

I wouldn't worry about getting the fuel pump itself. The design of them makes it difficult to adapt to fit in a stock Bronco fuel tank. Your best option would be to buy a tank set up for an internal pump, or mount external pumps on the frame and add a return port. When you get ready for that, let me know and I can supply you with some part numbers and how to set up if you have dual tanks.

Jason

 

Jason,
I was in the middle of a H.O. swap when I had to put the project on hold. Now I'd like to get rid of the donor vehicle a '91 mustang before finishing swap, but want to make sure I get everything needed. Is the speed sensor on the tail of the manuel tranny? Can any of the wiring harness be used for the battery/charging system, relays,etc? Also, for anyone else doing this type of swap it is a good idea to get the fuel shut off switch which is usually located in the trunk or under the driver seat.

 

Yes, the speed sensor should be in the tail housing of the transmission. You don't necessarily need the sensor, just the wiring to it. If I remember correctly, you use a late 80's pickup sensor to adapt to the Bronco speedo drive.

If you are planning on running the Mustang alternator, then you will need the harness to go with it. It also depends on where your battery location is going to end up. The Mustangs have the battery on the drivers side which makes room for the air intake on the passenger side. In my opinion, you will be customizing your harness and building battery cables to fit, so it isn't feasible to use the Mustang parts. In all of the swaps I have done, I changed the engine harness around so that the EEC relay and fuel pump relay were together on the passenger side inner fender. I left the battery and starter solenoid in the OE spot and lengthened the wires in the harness to connect. In my original swap, I used a standard harness without any changes or shortening and it made things really cluttered under the hood.

When I did my first swap several years ago, the consensus was not to run the inertia switch because the normal jarring from wheeling could trip it.
But I am finding lately that more people are running them than not. I believe the location of the inertia switch and fuel pump relay is under one of the front seats. I'm thinking pass side, but I'm not sure.

Hope this helps,
Jason

 

The info is very helpful. Thank you so much!. I going to try to get back to the salvage yard this week. i'll let you know how its coming.
Trevor

 

I run an inertia switch and it's never popped on me. I have been on every side slowly and no problem.
I have HO 5L from a 93 T-bird and it's a slick setup for many reasons but the best one is the fan to rad clearance.
I am running a computer from an auto with a manual, no EGR, no air pump and I don't have a VSS but I will be adding it, I have a jump in idle speed that I think is due to the computer not knowing if I am starting out or moving 100 MPH.
I got the car that was wrecked for $400 and took every bit of wire out of it and scrapped the body, it's nice because if I want to add something I can go to the tub of wire and pull the factory color and add it in.