efi troubleshooting..please heeelp
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
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I'm having the same problem with my '93 F-150 (302), and then some. At the lower rpms the engine shakes like crazy. I can accelerate through it, but it happens again as the gears change. I've changed both fuel pumps and the fuel filter. Before that I changed all plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. The check engine light comes on once in a blue moon. My next angle was to check the fuel injectors because the #8 plug is defintiely not firing. I don't know anything about the EGR. Any ideas? Am I on the right track with the injectors?
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by dunwithit
i fixed,i couldnt belive it was just a clogged fuel line from the tank to the pump,thanks to everyone for the sugjestions,fte rules.thanks again bob in rhode island.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 506
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
kman - You said you had a check engine light at one point. What was the code for that? I would start by checking the codes. I used to cuss all this computer stuff but once you get used to it, they actually help you and can save money.
If you don't have a code scsanner, many parts stores like Auto-zone will do it for free.
I would start there. Since it is at low speeds, I doubt it is fuel starvation. It could be an EGR sticking open from carbon build up (they can be cleaned), it could be any of the sensors such as TPS having to do with air metering, throttle position etc. I would check codes, including old memory codes from past engine runs and see if that gives any hints.
Good Luck,
Lee
If you don't have a code scsanner, many parts stores like Auto-zone will do it for free.
I would start there. Since it is at low speeds, I doubt it is fuel starvation. It could be an EGR sticking open from carbon build up (they can be cleaned), it could be any of the sensors such as TPS having to do with air metering, throttle position etc. I would check codes, including old memory codes from past engine runs and see if that gives any hints.
Good Luck,
Lee
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8
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From: rhode island
well its running ok now but.......when the motor gets hot it wont start,i wont even turn over, like the batteries dead ,but its not.new starter,alt. and selinoid,new battery and every thing else under the sun,it will startup no problem when it cools off. also im thinking of getting rid of the efi and going to a carb.is this doable? can i use the electric fuel pumps or doi need to go manual?also anyone want to buy a truck cheap? lol just kiddin thanks bob in rhode island.
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
From: Edwards Air Force Base
I can't see anything in the EFI affecting the inability for the motor to turn over when hot. Sounds like metal swelling in the heat and shrinking as it cools.
"Assuming" it isn't something in the motor itself which it shouldn't be.... I would think the starter isn't spaced correctly and the teeth are binding so they can't engage (fixed by shimming it) or else the starter itself could be hot (You can get heat shields for them.)
Good Luck,
Lee
"Assuming" it isn't something in the motor itself which it shouldn't be.... I would think the starter isn't spaced correctly and the teeth are binding so they can't engage (fixed by shimming it) or else the starter itself could be hot (You can get heat shields for them.)
Good Luck,
Lee
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
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Codes
Thanks. I'll set it up to run the codes. I did it yesterday, but tit didn't make any sense. The codes it flashed weren't in the haynes book. Looks like a trip to Auto Zone is in order.
Originally Posted by Lee Lichterman
kman - You said you had a check engine light at one point. What was the code for that? I would start by checking the codes. I used to cuss all this computer stuff but once you get used to it, they actually help you and can save money.
If you don't have a code scsanner, many parts stores like Auto-zone will do it for free.
I would start there. Since it is at low speeds, I doubt it is fuel starvation. It could be an EGR sticking open from carbon build up (they can be cleaned), it could be any of the sensors such as TPS having to do with air metering, throttle position etc. I would check codes, including old memory codes from past engine runs and see if that gives any hints.
Good Luck,
Lee
If you don't have a code scsanner, many parts stores like Auto-zone will do it for free.
I would start there. Since it is at low speeds, I doubt it is fuel starvation. It could be an EGR sticking open from carbon build up (they can be cleaned), it could be any of the sensors such as TPS having to do with air metering, throttle position etc. I would check codes, including old memory codes from past engine runs and see if that gives any hints.
Good Luck,
Lee
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 526
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
How about the trottle position sensor? If it has a dead spot at the same throttle postion (no matter how fast/slow/gear/etc), then it usually is the TPS. They are a rheostat (sp?), thus a wiper system and they wear out and get dead spots in them. The spot usually is just off idle (for it is used the most), but could be anywhere in the range. They are realitivly cheap to replace. You can test one with an old analog multimeter.
Kenny
Kenny
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 3
From: Mid-Missouri
I had a timing chain that was severly stretched that caused a similar problem.
caused the timing to move around enough that low speed operation was a pain.
It would idle fine and run decent going down the road but would not run worth a sqaut at low RPM/low speed conditions.
Needless to say, the nylon gears eventually failed and then it wouldn't do anything.
caused the timing to move around enough that low speed operation was a pain.
It would idle fine and run decent going down the road but would not run worth a sqaut at low RPM/low speed conditions.
Needless to say, the nylon gears eventually failed and then it wouldn't do anything.
New User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 7
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Timing Chain
I never thought of a timing chain stretching. Now that you mention it though, it is acting a lot like the timing comes in and out. I'll check it. Now, if the timing chain is stretched, can I just change it, or does more work go with that?
