Trucks running like crap again! Two codes....!@#*&%
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Trucks running like crap again! Two codes....!@#*&%
Stupid truck is idling rough again after replacing just about everything there is to replace. 
Codes:
35 - KOEO and KOER: PFE or EVP circuit above maximum limit of 4.81 volts.
41 - KOEO: No HEGO switching detected always lean right side.
Any ideas where to start? I've had the code 35, but never found a problem with vacuum to the EGR, or the one or two circuits I did test. Maybe I need to recheck the circuit again, or did I not check it correct?
Thanks for the help again guys! I won't give up until this truck runs like its supposed to.
Parts replaced so far:
New distributor & Cap (everything from top to bottom)
New Coil
New TFI Module
New Spark Plugs
New Spark Plug Wires
New EGR Valve
New EGR Position Sensor
New Oxygen Sensor
New Idle Air Control valve
New Throttle Position Sensor
New Fuel Pump Relay
New EEC Relay
New Fuel Tank Selector Switch
Fixed shorted fuel system wiring & installed two fused links
New Frame Mounted High Pressure Fuel Pump
New Front Tank Fuel Pump
New Starter
Codes:
35 - KOEO and KOER: PFE or EVP circuit above maximum limit of 4.81 volts.
41 - KOEO: No HEGO switching detected always lean right side.
Any ideas where to start? I've had the code 35, but never found a problem with vacuum to the EGR, or the one or two circuits I did test. Maybe I need to recheck the circuit again, or did I not check it correct?
Thanks for the help again guys! I won't give up until this truck runs like its supposed to.
Parts replaced so far:
New distributor & Cap (everything from top to bottom)
New Coil
New TFI Module
New Spark Plugs
New Spark Plug Wires
New EGR Valve
New EGR Position Sensor
New Oxygen Sensor
New Idle Air Control valve
New Throttle Position Sensor
New Fuel Pump Relay
New EEC Relay
New Fuel Tank Selector Switch
Fixed shorted fuel system wiring & installed two fused links
New Frame Mounted High Pressure Fuel Pump
New Front Tank Fuel Pump
New Starter
Last edited by DOHC330MustangGT; Jul 21, 2005 at 04:16 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Central NY
35 would be a bad egr position sensor or a short in the wiring causing extra voltage to go back to the computer.
41 would be a bad/mislocated o2 sensor, clogged fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, extra air entering the intake after the MAF, or extra air entering the exhuast before the o2 sensor.
Hope this helps ya,
Popa Tim
41 would be a bad/mislocated o2 sensor, clogged fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, extra air entering the intake after the MAF, or extra air entering the exhuast before the o2 sensor.
Hope this helps ya,
Popa Tim
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
Disconnect the vacuum line off the EGR valve and run a KOER test again. Does 35 show up again?
35 and 41 *could* be related. An always open EGR valve put exhaust back into intake all the time. The O2 will pick this up and set off LEAN.
35 and 41 *could* be related. An always open EGR valve put exhaust back into intake all the time. The O2 will pick this up and set off LEAN.
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Thanks for the the help guys.
I'm going to dig in to it this weekend and se what goes. Yeah, and the weather man says it's going to hit 102F this weekend, and it's humid as crap here in TN! It's going to be some real fun!
I'm going to dig in to it this weekend and se what goes. Yeah, and the weather man says it's going to hit 102F this weekend, and it's humid as crap here in TN! It's going to be some real fun!
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OK, so the EGR and EGR Position sensor is new. Just to make sure it was OK, I tested it as the haynes book said, and a couple tests Popa Tim suggested in another thread. Let me know if you see anything wrong below.
As the Haynes manual said do, I checked these things.
KOEO - VREF to SIG-RTN = 5.00 vdc
EVP to VREF (harness off testing resistance in ohms on the EVP sensor)
335 @ 0" hg
295 ohms @ 20" hg
304 ohms @ 10" hg
It was supposed to read 5,000 ohms @ 0" hg and with 20" it should have read 100 ohms. I think I did this test correct because I did it just as the haynes manual showed and I have my Craftsman Multimeter on OHM with the horse shoe looking symbol.
Harness on and KOEO
VREF to GND = 5.01 vdc
EVP to GND:
4.86 vdc @ 20" hg, 10" hg, 8" hg (all these were right about at the 4.86 reading). The EGR code says the error is because the EVP sensor is above maximum voltage of 4.81 volts, so this is my problem?
3.83 vdc @ 5" hg
.918 vdc @ 2.5" hg
.480 vdc @ 0" hg
As the Haynes manual said do, I checked these things.
KOEO - VREF to SIG-RTN = 5.00 vdc
EVP to VREF (harness off testing resistance in ohms on the EVP sensor)
335 @ 0" hg
295 ohms @ 20" hg
304 ohms @ 10" hg
It was supposed to read 5,000 ohms @ 0" hg and with 20" it should have read 100 ohms. I think I did this test correct because I did it just as the haynes manual showed and I have my Craftsman Multimeter on OHM with the horse shoe looking symbol.
Harness on and KOEO
VREF to GND = 5.01 vdc
EVP to GND:
4.86 vdc @ 20" hg, 10" hg, 8" hg (all these were right about at the 4.86 reading). The EGR code says the error is because the EVP sensor is above maximum voltage of 4.81 volts, so this is my problem?
3.83 vdc @ 5" hg
.918 vdc @ 2.5" hg
.480 vdc @ 0" hg
Posting Guru
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From: Langhorne, PA
Find the EVR, to do this, locate the EGR vacuum input and follow the hose back to the EVR, and check it out. This is the valve that applies vacuum to the EGR. My EVR failed because the solenoid inside was corroded.
I am not sure if a bad EVR is the cause, but I am just pointing out that there are three components in the "EGR system" ...EGR, EVP, and EVR, and all associated wiring and hose.
I am not sure if a bad EVR is the cause, but I am just pointing out that there are three components in the "EGR system" ...EGR, EVP, and EVR, and all associated wiring and hose.
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Oops, meant 3.35 ohms @ 0" hg on EVP to VREF (harness off testing resistance in ohms on the EVP sensor).
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More oddness....
Last night at 2am I did all these tests. I applied up to 20" hg vacuum to the EGR for the tests. Today, after all those tests, the truck runs fine at idle and driving. That leads me to believe the EGR is sticking open at random because at idle to just over 1k rpms, it was shuttering, missing, hesitating, and just running like crap, but above 1500 rpms while driving, it ran fine.
What do you all think?
Last night at 2am I did all these tests. I applied up to 20" hg vacuum to the EGR for the tests. Today, after all those tests, the truck runs fine at idle and driving. That leads me to believe the EGR is sticking open at random because at idle to just over 1k rpms, it was shuttering, missing, hesitating, and just running like crap, but above 1500 rpms while driving, it ran fine.
What do you all think?
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From: Langhorne, PA
The EGR and EVP are new, I sure hope the EGR isn't sticking. Have you located the EVR and checked it out?
Please confirm your vacuum lines are all intact and both vacuum reservoirs are not leaking. The metal coffee can on your passenger side inner wheel wheel needs to checked, and there is a plastic reservoir mounted on your fan blower box.
BTW, the EGR does not open and stay there, it opens and closes constantly while running. Computer sends a ground to the EVR solenoid, which allows manifold vacuum to the EGR, the EGR opens, and moves the EVP sensor resistor, then the computer senses the EVP output, EVP is indicating EGR open, then the computer will shut down the EVR solenoid and stop vacuum to the EGR.
The EVR is a special valve that can apply a vacuum to another component and as soon as the EVR solenoid closes, the manifold pressure is stopped and the pressure between the EVR and the EGR is immediately bled out the top of the EVR.
Please confirm your vacuum lines are all intact and both vacuum reservoirs are not leaking. The metal coffee can on your passenger side inner wheel wheel needs to checked, and there is a plastic reservoir mounted on your fan blower box.
BTW, the EGR does not open and stay there, it opens and closes constantly while running. Computer sends a ground to the EVR solenoid, which allows manifold vacuum to the EGR, the EGR opens, and moves the EVP sensor resistor, then the computer senses the EVP output, EVP is indicating EGR open, then the computer will shut down the EVR solenoid and stop vacuum to the EGR.
The EVR is a special valve that can apply a vacuum to another component and as soon as the EVR solenoid closes, the manifold pressure is stopped and the pressure between the EVR and the EGR is immediately bled out the top of the EVR.
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From: Langhorne, PA
I am getting confused, so could you confirm any codes that occur every day or every couple days?? You should record and clear the codes every time you retrieve them.
Have you tried cleaning the intake? Pull a vacuum line off after the engine is hot and use the line to suck some seafoam engine treatment into the air intake. Replace the vac line, turn the engine off, let the Seafoam soak in for ten minutes, then crank it back on and watch your exhaust, you'll probably see a big cloud of smoke.
Running Seafoam, or whatever cleaner you prefer on a regular basis, keeps the engine running smoother, I SWEAR!
When you pop off the vac line the engine may try and stall, so have the Seafoam ready for use, and hold the end of the vacuum line closed with your fingers, dip the vacuum line into the seafoam and try and meter the line by pinching it between your fingers. The engine will stall if you suck the Cleaner in too quickly. If you like to use an Aerosol spray cleaner there are plenty available, Seafoam has an aerosol as well, I like the aerosols because you can shoot them right down the air intake, and scrub the throttle plates, while your in there.
Have you tried cleaning the intake? Pull a vacuum line off after the engine is hot and use the line to suck some seafoam engine treatment into the air intake. Replace the vac line, turn the engine off, let the Seafoam soak in for ten minutes, then crank it back on and watch your exhaust, you'll probably see a big cloud of smoke.
Running Seafoam, or whatever cleaner you prefer on a regular basis, keeps the engine running smoother, I SWEAR!
When you pop off the vac line the engine may try and stall, so have the Seafoam ready for use, and hold the end of the vacuum line closed with your fingers, dip the vacuum line into the seafoam and try and meter the line by pinching it between your fingers. The engine will stall if you suck the Cleaner in too quickly. If you like to use an Aerosol spray cleaner there are plenty available, Seafoam has an aerosol as well, I like the aerosols because you can shoot them right down the air intake, and scrub the throttle plates, while your in there.