Sorry if this was covered before but I did not find any details using the search maybe I did not do it right anyway this is my first Diesel and I remember you had to put an additive in the coolant of the 7.3L is this still the case with the 6.0L? If so how do I monitor this? Is there a tester?
Thanks for any input.
Glen

 

That's a good question. I just got my 6.0 so I have never had to add coolant. I'll check my manual when I get home and let you know if it's any help.

 

The 6.0L motor does NOT use any additives in the coolant.

It uses the Premium Gold coolant from Motorcraft and the factory fill is good for 100,000 miles (which I do not trust). The manual says 100,000 or 50,000 if using regular tap water (instead of distilled).

I flushed my system 5 times with distilled water (.89/gallon) and ran the truck with the heater on until the thermostat opened for awhile, drain, refill, drain, refill. After 5 times, all that was left was 100% distilled water in my system. I drained the radiator one last time, added in 3-1/2 gallons (approx) to get me to a 50/50% coolant dilution rate for the system. Ran truck and toped off with 50/50 to bring to "min" mark.

I also added a Dieselsite.com coolant "by-pass" filter on the last drain since I believe filtering out the crud and sediment is needed for thses motors.

The dealer and some shops can measure the PH and some other "current level" to determine if the coolant is protecting like it should.

Remember, no SCA's (additives) are needed for the 6.0L PSD.

Thanks,

 

Jeff,

Do you have any idea if that coolant filter is compatible with Evans coolant (100% PG)?

Also, knowing the way it is made, it will still flow to/from the filter on a pressureless system? With the Evans they recommend running a 0 PSI system, so I have a hole drilled in the degas bottle cap...

 

I am not familiar with the Evans coolant (pros or cons) and I have never heard about zero pressure in the cooling system... at least on pusrpose.

Please explain how this works as I was under the impression that a combination of distilled water, coolant and pressure is what gives you the hot & cold protection year round. Seems like running at zero pressure would not be good for the system... why not just design it that way then?

The "no pressure" thing is new to me... please explain the rational for this kind of set-up and pros and cons....

Thanks,

 

i have also never heard of a pressure less system. the antifreze works 2 ways. 1, it helps stop freeze up in the winter, while raising the boiling point in hot weather. the pressure cap helps to raise the boiling point even higher.
while i have never heard of the evans system, i don't think i would fully trust it untill i knew more about it. stay factory fuild and safe

 

Evans NPG+ (what I am running now) boils at 375 deg F at atmosphere. Running it under pressure doesn't significantly raise its boiling point, and running a zero pressure system helps tremendously to get rid of cavitation problems.

The stuff also doesn't freeze solid period (at any reasonable temperature). At -40 it will *gel* up much like diesel fuel and won't perform properly, but it will absolutely not freeze and bust the block.

I will say this for it...I was running into some serious overheating problems with the power output and EGT levels my engine is running...I have since blocked off flow to the EGR cooler by cutting the uppipes and rewelding them (got rid of the EGR feed tube) and replaced the coolant with the Evans stuff- I really don't think I CAN overheat the truck. Even as overfueled as it is, with some recent mods to my water injection and the Evans coolant it can't feasbily get hot enough to melt the pistons, and it can't heat soak badly enough to overload the cooling system.

I am quite interested in the coolant filter though...at nearly 30 bucks a gallon to the door I would like to preserve it as long as possible.

Oh, BTW
http://www.evanscooling.com/main25.htm

 

I am also interested in the coolant filter, is it a bypass or full flow?
Also whichever it is where did you put it? Thanks!

 

psd
thank you for the lesson on the product. any body know or think that water filter would work on my gas motor?

 

NO ANY FORD DIESEL THAT USED THE PREMIUM GOLD FORM FACTORY DOES NOT REQUIRE THE FORD FW16 ADDITIVE ALL LATE 2002 7.3 TO THE NEW 6.0L DOES NOT REQUIRE ADDITIVE

 

I purchased the coolant filter set-up from dieselsite.com.

It cost around $130.00 with ball valves and took about an hour to install. I installed it after flushing my system with distilled water and before I poured the fresh coolant in. The idea is that NO filtration is made for our 6.0L motors (by Ford). International does on their version!!!

We filter the air, fuel and oil... so why not the coolant. Crud and other stuff (which is a by-product) of the coolant working remains in their and will not get out until flushed. The filter is a Baldwin brand and installs into existing holes. You cut into the heater hose right behind the transmission tube and the outflow from the filter "tees" into the small degas hose that runs from the top of the radiator to the degas bottle.

Clean and neat install and so far so good.

Send me your email address and I can send back some digital images I took of it all.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

It is a by-pass system that "t-ees" into the heater hose behind the oil fill tube and tee-s into the small hose from the radiator to the degas bottle.

I purchased from dieselsite.com and ordered it with the ball valves as to stop any coolant loss when changing filters. I installed mine after flushing 5 times with distilled water and before refilling with the proper amount of premium Gold Ford antifreeze.

There are pictures and research about coolant filters and how they work and the "crud" they take out. SInce we filter our oil, fuel and air... why not the coolant!!!!

Since I flushed before installing, I will not change the first filter until 10,000 miles or so. From what I read is that if you install with current fluid, you should change it out every 2 - 3 months for the first several months then 1/year there after... since you will probably have "crud" in there that needs to get out.... I didn't since I flushed 5 times before install (or I hope at least)!!!!

I am able to see the flow of water from the small hose into the degas bottle so I know that the filter is still working. When it stops, it is plugged up and needs to be replaced. Even when plugged, it is a by-pass system so no harm to your cooling system or the flow of coolant.

Jeff