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He is talking about phasing. The way to chheck this is to take a old cap drill a large hole next a terminal. imagine a line from the center of the cap through a terminal put the hole on this line up against the terminal. Now put a timing light on the plug wire that is connected to the terminal that has the hole by it. Start the engine and see if the rotor is centered on the terminal when it fires. If it is off center adjust the baccking plate until it is centered. It might take a few tries to get it just right
I don't know if its one tooth off or not, the dist hasn't been out since 1992, the timing marks line up but someone else mentioned that, could that be the root problem? it runs OK now after i adjusted the pot. full advance is past the end of the 30 degree mark some. if it is timed at 6 btdc how far ahead would one tooth make it?
Russ, did you get your GTech?
BTW, can you post some photos, specs with numbers on your G heads when they return from the head shop? Yesterday I found one C4AE 6090 G head when I was looking for a log manifold for a friend at a truck wrecker. Manifold $50, core deposit on head $25 as they were both attached and they didn't want to seperate. Heck they can keep my $25. I've got four 454 heads (peanut port) from good running motors (boat that ran coolant) told they are worth $10 each, chebbies that cheap?
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OK thanks, is there a way to see if i'm a tooth off without the bringing up the #1 to TDC? As for the phasing test, my dist does not have an adjustment option for the backing plate. I will check the dizzy alignment out because every since i overhauled the eng it has ran somewhat hot, no overheating just heats up at idle, slow traffic, and heavy pulls, it never overheated cause I'm not where i would bet stuck in traffic. I will check the distributer alignment, let me know if there is an alternative way to verify if its a tooth off.
OK thanks, is there a way to see if i'm a tooth off without the bringing up the #1 to TDC? As for the phasing test, my dist does not have an adjustment option for the backing plate. I will check the dizzy alignment out because every since i overhauled the eng it has ran somewhat hot, no overheating just heats up at idle, slow traffic, and heavy pulls, it never overheated cause I'm not where i would bet stuck in traffic. I will check the distributer alignment, let me know if there is an alternative way to verify if its a tooth off.
Fan not big enough, clutch bad, no shroud or a weak water pump will cause idle overheats.
Or radiator that's half plugged or a two row. That fan shroud is one major item in keeping the motor cool no matter whay type of fan you use. Fan clutches can screw up.
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