Many thanks to those who responded to my last post

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=392891

Thanks for the info, I'm glad I didn't shell out $250 for a junk yard motor.

I was talking to a guy today and told him I was looking for a 390. Well, he had one, all for the price of picking it up (which I did). Its complete with a C6. No to bad a deal I thought. He claims its a 390 which I will verify. Got it home and was going to check the stroke but it looks as though water got into #1 and she is a little stuck. Pulled all the plugs and filled each cyl with some lube. I'll try again after a nice long soak.

My truck, 73 F100 currently has the stock 360. But I have a few questions on casting codes.

My truck has head D2TE-AA, the "390" heads have C6AE and a C6AE-R. I know that C6 = 1966, A=Auto and E=Engine.... Right? But what does the R mean? In general, is one set of heads (D2TE vs. C6AE) any better than the other? Why? When I do the rebuild I will put on the D2TE heads since they were rebuilt about 500 miles ago.

Also, I was looking at the "390" block and its is stamped with C6ME-A. First, what does the M mean? Is there anything particularly special about this block over others with it being a 1966 M?

Assuming this is a 390, my plan is to rebuild it this winter and put it in the truck. I CAN'T WAIT.

Thanks for all the great info. You all rock!

Jeremy

 

Well Both the D2 and the C6 heads can be good performer's...the C6 heads have a larger port than the D2's which make them a good canidate for porting...

Depending on what you want to do with your build..Each head will give you performance on each end of the spectum...D2's will allow for more low end TQ.. and the C6's will give better performance on the mid range and top end....

With a good Port job on the C6's and with CJ size Valve's installed you can get the to Flow about 280cfm on intake and about 180 to 190cfm without a test pipe..and thats Damn good for an Iron head...I'd have to look it up..I think I have some flow #s for the D2's also? But I'am not sure where they would be at the moment??

Nice Find, and good luck with your build!!

Russ

 

Pull the oil pan and look for the crank stamp ID, since it's in your garage, that will provide a more difinitive answer to your displacement. Along with what Russ had to say about the heads, since your D2's are fresh, use them if you are not planning to build anything over 400hp.

--Mike

 

With a really good porting job, D2 heads can be good for slightly over 400hp, with the right engine combination of course. Since your D2 heads are fresh, go ahead and use 'em.

On your block number, the "M" means it was originally cast as a Mercury engine block. That doesn't mean it was ever in a Mercury vehicle though. 1966-1967 was when Mercury was making 410's, that's probably what Ford intended the block for, but had a surplus and it wound up in a Ford as a 390. No big deal. It's just your standard 4.050" bore 360/390/410 engine block. Good basis for an FE build.

 

the a= full size car not auto. e= engine department. sounds like a good score.

 

Thanks for all the great info... I'm going to get it into my shop and take the pan off. I really want to see what crank it has in it. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Jeremy

 

I believe he decoded "A" for "automobile" as opposed to "truck".

--Mike

 

Well I've started on the strip down and found why she wouldn't turn over. When I drained the "oil" it was a nasty ugly mess of water, sludge, oil, rust and who knows what else. Got the pan off and the cyl walls are rusty. Poor thing.

I took a look at the crank, what little I could, and could not find a number. First, where should the number be? Second, is there any other way to ID the crank?

jerm

 

I have some more news for you all. I kinda look at this all as practice until I get to the real thing. The block I got as a freebe and was told it was a 390.... Wrong! Tore into it and come to find out its a 352. Oh well, I have some extra parts now. Oh the best part was the cylinders were still full of water from sitting outside. My buddy was helping with disassembly. We had to drive the pistons out from the back side with a combo of tools. Well, he was using a chunk of rebar. Didn't realize until too late, the rebar busted a hole in the side of the piston and cylinder wall. OOPS. I let him sweat for a while until we measured the bore. Told him if it was 4.13 I'd kick his.... Anyway. I did find another salvage yard that claims to have a 390 for $100.00. Gonna go check it out.

jerm

 

Busted a hole in the cylinder wall???!!! What was he hitting it with, a sledge?

 

If you end up with a standard everything 390, I'll make you a deal on a kit that I have laying around the garage. I can't get around to putting it on ebay.

 

Ahhh.... Finally have a 390... Yes, a real 390. Went to a yard about 50 miles away. Checked the stroke of a few FEs and found a 390! Yeah! Even better, it turns over. Its on the stand in my shop ready for disassembly. It cost me $100.00 and the owner of the yard was a really cool average joe. We must have talked for about an hour or so tellin stories. It was great. His yard was full of old iron. You could even walk around in it and check things out.

The only mishap, when we were pulling it out of the truck it was in... The chain that was looped over the fork of the fork lift slipped and the engine fell about two feet back onto the frame of the donor. OOPS. Looked for damage and did not see anything obvoius. Hope its okay.

On a side note... A buddy that went with me, the guy that busted a hole in the 352 I talked about above. He found a 30s vintage flat V8. The owner of the yard told him $100.00. I tried to talk him into it, he strugled with the decision and in the end he passed. We may drive over and get it later though.

jeremy