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sorry to hear this dan.
if i was there already i would tow your trailer home for you. but i'm still in florida for the time being. i would think that with all the wa people on this site someone could help you out and use their psd to haul your trailer.. i mean that's what there made for right?? so in case he wont ask can someone give his traler a tow?????????
good luck ryan
It's really a shame ... when my NP208 went out on a 1981 Bronco I own it was too expensive to rebuild it. Instead I went and bought an NP205 and mated it up. It is holding up well. I didn't even rebuild it. I just hung it on from the junkyard with new 90 weight oil. It cost me $250 plus the cost of driveshaft changes.
That's the nice thing about the 205...cast iron and full of gears, bulletproof. When I first bought this truck I thought about trying to swap the 205 from my bronco into it....still might try if this one grenades.
Prolly have to convert to a 4x2 output shaft and divorce mount the case...dunno.
..............Just curious , I've got a 99 PSD with 88k on the clock , so Can I expect that the next time I try to use 4H\4L that my TC is going to just quit or is this related to the actual time amount of time that the TC has be utilized in 4wd which for me would be about 30 minutes total . Jeez , 1560 bucks plus freight plus another 300 or so to install . thanks , sk..
..............Just curious , I've got a 99 PSD with 88k on the clock , so Can I expect that the next time I try to use 4H\4L that my TC is going to just quit or is this related to the actual time amount of time that the TC has be utilized in 4wd which for me would be about 30 minutes total . Jeez , 1560 bucks plus freight plus another 300 or so to install . thanks , sk..
Unfortunatly the only way that you can be sure is to find someone with a borescope, remove the fill plug and look inside. Based on my experience, I highly recommend the procedure. Another good way to tell is to change the ATF in the transfer case and if little bits of plastic are laying next to the drain plug, make immediate plans for repair. I stress that NO WARNING SOUNDS WHATSOEVER gave me any indication of a problem. I would have been on it like stink on (you know what) to fix it before I left town. These units have an oil pump in them and the intake screen is right next to the drain plug. The magnet is right next to it in the other case half. All the chunks will gravitate to that area and it will be easy to look inside once it's drained to check things out.
This also is a good time to give an update. There is a available an updated rebuild kit for this problem. I managed to get the rear cover off using a porta power against the separating ears. After that I was able to dissamble it to the point where I can correctly reassemble the whole unit. The cost for the kit is something in the neighborhood of $450.00. I also bought the other shift fork even though the old one was ok, I just want to be thorough. $62.00.
So in the end this whole fiasco is "only" going to cost me $1100.00 +/-
I want to thank touchofgrey for the pictures, they were the key to getting this job done. Education is power!
I have never heard of such a problem!!!
And I know of one vehicle that goes in between 4lo and 4HI around 20 times a day (a mine engineers vehicle), it has 60000miles on it...
I am trying to remember whether the last transfer case I had apart (out of an '03 vehicle) had those plastic friction tabs in there... I can't recall them, that doesn't mean they weren't there, I just can't remember them.
Great info though Kwik.
As for getting the case opened. Do you have the ability to heat the TC up to a reasonable temperature?
I have never heard of such a problem!!!
And I know of one vehicle that goes in between 4lo and 4HI around 20 times a day (a mine engineers vehicle), it has 60000miles on it...
I am trying to remember whether the last transfer case I had apart (out of an '03 vehicle) had those plastic friction tabs in there... I can't recall them, that doesn't mean they weren't there, I just can't remember them.
Great info though Kwik.
As for getting the case opened. Do you have the ability to heat the TC up to a reasonable temperature?
One of the shift forks has arrived and it still has the plastic tabs.
I got the case fully opened, and am waiting for the replacement parts to arrive and it's going back together.
Ok, I can't recall the plastic tabs, I think they "got lost" on the way to me...
The transfer case I am talking about was well and truley beyond repair though (had a conical shear through the casing)
Hey all.
Transfer case is back together!
Too eager to get it back in the truck to upload the pictures, but they will be along shortly.
Notice the time between these two posts. That includes time to drive home, get under the truck with the transfer case, grunt it up into position. Clean the threads on the axle flanges, apply blue lock tight and bolt it all in.
It's alive!!!
Ok, these are the two main shafts side by side. Notice that the new one has an oiling galley for lubricating the shift fork.
Here you can see the new shift fork and the 180 degree plastic "bearings". They snap into the notches on the new shift fork. And the new slider with the oil galley sitting next to the old one without the oil galley.
Assembled and ready to close up.
All done.
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Feb 3, 2006 at 10:48 PM.
Great work there Qwik - Have you heard when they started to install the new shafts or are they a retrofit kinda thing? It's obvious they are aware of a lubrication problem.
Great work there Qwik - Have you heard when they started to install the new shafts or are they a retrofit kinda thing? It's obvious they are aware of a lubrication problem.
I didn't ask that question. I just knew that mine was not on that list.
I just returned from a test drive and the difference is easy to tell. The lever feels a lot "tighter" now. Before you could tell that there was some slop somewhere and I just assumed that it was just that way. Now there is no trace of slop at all. Real nice, tight feel.
for those of us with year models close to yours and 4x4 can you recommend what info is needed to determine if our transfer case is suspect or not or just drain the ATF and check for plastic is only way??
Thanks