Hard Starting EFI 300 I6
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
Likes: 4
From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Hard Starting EFI 300 I6
Truck is in my signature. Bought it at 58,000 miles in '99. Always has required a tad more cranking to start than I thought normal. Now it is gettting rather excessive on cold starts--more than several seconds sometimes. I have a new cap, rotor, and fuel filter. The plugs are Motorcraft Platinum with 27,000 miles on them. Pulled one a couple thousand miles ago and gap was fine. Some greyish/whitish depostis down one side of plug. Plug wires are 34,000 miles old (also Motorcraft). Coil is only about 37,000 miles old and is the higher quality Standard brand than called for in replacement ($85 job vs the $50). I figure the plugs should be good still, but maybe those wires are getting a bit tired. It runs fine other than startup. What'ch'y'all think?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,611
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From: Bored town OH
might be the starter, or maybe the battery is kinda low after sitting, and is all nice and charged up after the truck was running dor a while. I know whenever my battery is low it's hard to crank.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 425
Likes: 4
My fuel pressure regulator was giving me those symptoms. It wasn't holding fuel pressure while stopped. After several hours, the truck would have to crank for a while before starting. After that, it started fine until it sat for awhile again. You might want to check it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
Likes: 4
From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Battery is 5 years old, but as I noted, it always has been a bit hard starting. Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is it.
I tried to turn the key to on and let the fuel pump run before cranking it, but the fuel pump does not seem to come on unless you actually start it. Even depressed the clutch in case it was tied to the safety switch for not starting in gear. Nothing.
I tried to turn the key to on and let the fuel pump run before cranking it, but the fuel pump does not seem to come on unless you actually start it. Even depressed the clutch in case it was tied to the safety switch for not starting in gear. Nothing.
Last edited by TallPaul; Jul 19, 2005 at 09:43 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,545
Likes: 4
From: Coal Region
not good paul, always though as ur truck as a realible beast.
been a while since i seen ya around the forums, since u used to regularly visit...2 years ago? heh. shows how long i've been here.
id check fuel pressure and try a new regulator. also, for S/Gs have the starting and charging system tested. usually these trucks have the opposite problem, slow/hard starting when warm due to the manifold and injectors being so close.
yet another innovative ford idea
been a while since i seen ya around the forums, since u used to regularly visit...2 years ago? heh. shows how long i've been here.
id check fuel pressure and try a new regulator. also, for S/Gs have the starting and charging system tested. usually these trucks have the opposite problem, slow/hard starting when warm due to the manifold and injectors being so close.
yet another innovative ford idea
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
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From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Hi optikal. I was pretty absorbed into the Oil forum here and moreso the oil guy website for the last two years. As a result I now have a 180 quart stash of oil.
As for my F150, I took it in to the shop. Needed two u-joints and I threw a few other items on the list, including the hard starting. We'll see what they come up with. I will call them and put the regulator bug in their ear.
I just find not much time to visit all the forums, but should get back over here to the I-6 forum especially, since it is the greatest engine.
As for my F150, I took it in to the shop. Needed two u-joints and I threw a few other items on the list, including the hard starting. We'll see what they come up with. I will call them and put the regulator bug in their ear.
I just find not much time to visit all the forums, but should get back over here to the I-6 forum especially, since it is the greatest engine.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
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From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Thanks, I have an excellent shop. Unfortunately the truck did not exhibit the hard starting for them. Had them check the fuel pressure and it met spec, both KOER and KOEO (assume key on, engine running/off). Was KOER of 45 (spec 45-60) and KOEO of 50 (spec 50 -60).
One thing I did was to get the O2 sensor changed as it was original. We'll see if it helps fuel mileage (about 15.5 prior, but that may be my heavy foot
).
One thing I did was to get the O2 sensor changed as it was original. We'll see if it helps fuel mileage (about 15.5 prior, but that may be my heavy foot
).
Last edited by TallPaul; Jul 21, 2005 at 07:42 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,860
Likes: 4
From: Metro Detroit (Redford)
Great. I guess the computer needs a while to adjust to the change. It seemed to run great when I picked it up, though (maybe they did the O2 before their road test. Anyway, now that I know the U-joints are good, I can stomp on it some more. Oh yeah, the U-joint story is in the driveline stuff forum (FWIW).
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2010
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My truck does the same thing, first thing in the morning it will fire up fine but after running a while if I shut it off and let it sit.... it just turns an turns then when it starts if I hold the gas pedal a little to keep it from shutting off it runs like complete crap skipping really bad. after about 10 seconds of that is levels off and will idle fine with a slight miss fire here and there. you think the fpr could be doing that or would it be with the injectors or heaven forbid could it be my distributor? I have an 88 f150 300 6 efi 2wd new plugs wires cap rotor an coil AND i even went as far as to replace a connector to the coil and for my computer because one of the wires on both was bare....the ground to my pcm only had one copper strand holding it together haha.... any advice on this would be much appreciated because today Im am starting a moderate tear down to try and solve this problem if its the fuel side, bypass air pump and port/polish the head. thank you.
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